Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About Dirtautoguy

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

7,161 profile views
  1. Hmm that's good to know. I could probably change it out but I don't have a shop to do it in. The brake interlock has already been removed
  2. I have a 1996 chevy k1500 with 236000 miles on the originaly tranny..... lately it has had issues shifting from park. after doing a little research I figured it was the brake safety switch. So I tried to disable only find out that the original owner had already done so. In trying to get it to shift I accidentally broke the shift mechanism on the column, I got a new one at the salvage yard. I have tried many things including rocking it back and forth and hooking it up to another truck to pull the tension off of my truck and still nothing it will not shift. so I popped the cable off the transmission and the shifter moves fine. which to me means that it has to be something with the transmission. does anyone know how I should deal with it??? it my opinion if I am going to have to have the tranny pulled apart I almost may as well have it rebuilt or have a new one put in it just because of the miles. what do you guys think?
  3. ok. this is what I have done. we bled all 4 brakes again for good measure. we checked all the hard ware and made sure everything was tight and leak free. it didnt change anything. I clamped the rubber lines one at a time and think there maybe something to that. I have replced the passenger side rubber line but not the driver or the rear rubber ones. with the line clamped off my wife said the pedal didnt feel any different. however I could feel the line swell. with my vice grips just touching the outer hose the driver side deffinatley swelled more than the newer passenger side. and the rear was about the same as the driver side so there is something to be said there that I would probably bennefit from replacing the lines. also is it normal for the line to move when the brake pedal is pressed?? once again the rear and driver side moved more than the newer passenger side. just for kicks I made sure I wasnt losing vaccuum or anything at the booster. and the check valve is working as well. the last thing I found is that if you press down on the master cylinder a little you can hear air come out is that normal?? also I am not sure if my friend spilled a little fluid when topping the mc off but where the reservoir meets the master cylinder was wet like they may have been leaking???? I really hope freakin not its new!! not rebuilt!!
  4. Hmmm ok. My issue is time to do it. I'm doing auto body in college so I have 6 hours a day that I could work on it but then my wife has to work. We only have 2 vehicles so we would have to figure out how we could make that work. I would like to take it apart and then just order what I need but idk how long it would take to get here is the issue. I also don't want my dash to rattle afterwards that would drive me nuts. I also like the junkyard idea because I could do it to the salvage truck and have an idea of what I'm doing kinda like a practice round. But then again I don't have a ton of money to go spend on it. The door that hooks up to the actuator near the gas pedal is the door and It feels like it just came out of the passenger side hinge part. Is it just like pushed in a hole or how are they suspended there? Any pictures you have would be great! I figure the more I know before hand the better.
  5. I need to replace the defroster valve in my hvac system on my 1996 k1500. Im pretty sure it just popped off the rail piece on the other side. would it be better to get one of these and just replace it http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-50552-Equipment-Conditioning-Defroster/dp/B0016I0DYS/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GAKDQ9JSRFQB6S4WZ95 or go to the salvage yard and get a whole box?? I might be able to just put the valve door back on there what are the chances of that|?? also if anyone has a dash schematic or some insight on how to do this it would be greatly appreciated. from my understanding I need to take the steering colunm apart and swing the dash forward. thanks guys! any pictures would be awesome too!!!!!
  6. I have a 1996 chevy k1500 with the 350 vortec. My problem is the brakes. it has a new master cylinder, drums, hardware, shoes, wheel cylinders, rotors, pads, calipers, and some new lines. no matter how much I bleed it I cannot get a hard pedal. I understand these trucks dont have very good brakes to start with but I have driven several other GMT 400 trucks and the brakes were tons better than mine. I have checked that the drums were adjusted out as well. I read this forum and tried it http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/97-gmc-1500-with-spongy-as-hell-brakes-fixed.919964/ and I did get some pretty nasty fluid out as well as some air but it didnt seem to help the pedal much. I took it to a shop with a tech 2 scanner to see if maybe I had air in the ABS and they said that their scanner would start the test however something wouldnt alow it to do the whole test and they didnt know why. they said they tried it 3 times and it would not do it, however the pedal does feel better than it did. any ideas?? I have been reading alot but not finding many answers. I did find two more things with rubber caps on them under the proportioning valve anyone know what they are?? could it be my proportioning valve?? they fronts seem to grab pretty good and the drum brakes dont seem to be grabbing like they should. with the truck off the brakes are rock solid and the pedal wont bleed down. but soon as I start the truck the pedal goes way down. I have about 3-4 inches before the brakes start to grab and about 5-6 inches untill they are grabbing better. If I slam on the brakes it stops fairly well but still not like they should. I feel like I am about at worlds end with this does anyone have an idea??
  7. I recently converted My 1996 chevy k1500 mechanical fan to a electric one out of a ford windstar. it fits almost like it was made for it!!! all I did was trim the stock fan shroud and it fits in perfect. I used a hayden fan controller for it which seems to work really well. the controller has a wire that is meant to go through the air conditioning so that when the ac is on so is the fan. however I use the ac maybe 2 times a year and it doesnt work very good to start with, so I just wired it to a switch in the cab so that I can manually turn the fans on with the switch. My only issue is that when I turn the switch on it turns both fans on and it makes the dash and dome lights go a little dim. not seriously but a little bit. the temp sensor turns one on at a time. so My question is what can I do to help with this?? I dont really ever tow with the truck nor do I live in a hot climate so chances are I probably wont need both fans much at all, but in the case I do I dont like it shocking the system like that. the battery is less than a year old and the alternator is a couple years old but probably has no more than 15000 miles on it. I would love to put a 140 amp alternator on it but the price and for what I have and how often both fans are no i dont think it is worth it. my other thought is the big 3 upgrade. especially the wire from the alternator to the battery. it seems to me like it is very small for a 105 amp alternator. what do you guys think?? could I do just the alternator to battery cable right now and the rest later?? I would clean and check the other battery grounds too.
  8. I recently converted my 96 k1500 to a electric fan. I used fans from a ford windstar and a hayden adjustable fan wiring harness. so far the fans seem to work great my only question is what would be a accurate/ efficiant temperature setting? I have a 195 thermostat and right now the little of the fans turns on at 198 and off at about 188 which even so it doesnt come on very often. I am thinking more like turn on at 205-210 and off around 195. what are your thoughts?? the bigger fan will come on 10 degrees about the set point of the smaller fan. thanks
  9. I have seen online where above the cargo lamp switch in the dash there is a fog lamp switch. is there any specific model years I could get these switches from or a aftermarket switch that will fit into the hole?? I have some fog lights that I would like to wire up to this kind of a switch. thanks, it would be for a 1996 chevy k1500
  10. holy crap bat man!! I thought I answered this. maybe it just didnt post I cant remember. I changed the case fluid and did the 2 seals I could get too. It is just a regular shift lever on the floor. and I used ATF in it nothing special. although looking back high mileage woul have been a good idea. another quick question. my dad has a GMC with the push button 4wd and sometimes it takes a minute for it to go into 4h. is that normal? I have heard that the hydrostatic ones take a minute but I thought his being a 98 it wouldnt have this. thanks!!
  11. nevermind it does not stay locked in. I did add the napa premium ATF fluid that is supposed to be good for dexron 3 just to top it off and I still plan on changing it this week
  12. I'm pretty sure that I have the NP241 transfer case in my 1996 k1500 with the 4l60e and 350 vortec. I checked the fluid in it the other day and it is low. the fluid that is in it is pink like tranny fluid so Im pretty sure thats what it takes is the dexron 3. however I know that dexron 3 has undergone some name changes and a few things in like 2007. but I have heard that dexron vI isnt good for the transfer case so in a way its a pretty simple question. what fluid do I need to replace it with? is there anything that would be better? I do have a quart of napa ATF fluid that I was going to use to top it off untill I could just change it this week. I would also like to put lucas oil stabilizer or tranny fix but I wanted to make sure that would be ok. it looks like it is leaking at the seals but its not leaking very bad yet. My last question is is the front driveline always supposed to turn?? because I think mine does. thanks for the help
  13. it was just on the stick it wasnt really thick or gritty or anything it was about the consistancy of the fluid
  14. I checked the tranny oil today on my 1996 k1500 with 230000 miles on it, because I hadnt checked it in a while. I found that there was some black stuff on the dipstick. I wiped it off and checked it again and the fluid looked pretty good maybe just barely a little different color than it should. but is the black stuff normal or should I be worried about it? it drives fine and doesnt slip that I can tell, but with 230,000 miles it wouldnt suprise me if it was headed downhill. I might do oil change on it but iv heard very mixed reviews about doing this and I dont know when it was done last and I have had the truck for 35,000 miles so its probably about time anyway. I know when I got the truck it looked like the oil was brand spankin new. what are your thoughts?
  15. I have decided to change the head pipes on my 1996 k1500. it has the 1 7/8 " and I have 2 1/4" from under the passenger side back. I dont know how much I will actually gain from it but I am curious and would feel better if I did the headpipes to flow better. My question is what size are the stock manifolds collector for the 3 bolt flange. and I'm debating on what cats to get and put on. thanks for the help
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.