Dirtautoguy

holy crap bat man!! I thought I answered this. maybe it just didnt post I cant remember. I changed the case fluid and did the 2 seals I could get too. It is just a regular shift lever on the floor. and I used ATF in it nothing special. although looking back high mileage woul have been a good idea. another quick question. my dad has a GMC with the push button 4wd and sometimes it takes a minute for it to go into 4h. is that normal? I have heard that the hydrostatic ones take a minute but I thought his being a 98 it wouldnt have this. thanks!!

nevermind it does not stay locked in. I did add the napa premium ATF fluid that is supposed to be good for dexron 3 just to top it off and I still plan on changing it this week

I'm pretty sure that I have the NP241 transfer case in my 1996 k1500 with the 4l60e and 350 vortec. I checked the fluid in it the other day and it is low. the fluid that is in it is pink like tranny fluid so Im pretty sure thats what it takes is the dexron 3. however I know that dexron 3 has undergone some name changes and a few things in like 2007. but I have heard that dexron vI isnt good for the transfer case so in a way its a pretty simple question. what fluid do I need to replace it with? is there anything that would be better? I do have a quart of napa ATF fluid that I was going to use to top it off untill I could just change it this week. I would also like to put lucas oil stabilizer or tranny fix but I wanted to make sure that would be ok. it looks like it is leaking at the seals but its not leaking very bad yet. My last question is is the front driveline always supposed to turn?? because I think mine does. thanks for the help

today I finally got the fuel sending unit replaced today. we lifted up the bed and used blocks of wood to hold it up. it took about 2 hours (including the time we took to go get a swived joint for the rear bolts by the hitch) and my gas gauge now works good again

I was told on another forum to try and ground the purple wire on top of the tank. if the gauge went to full they said that the gauge is working and that the sending unit is bad. So I tried it and it went to E not F so maybe thats what he meant to say. Im looking at new units. I would like to put an acdelco one in it but my wallet wont really allow that right now. so im looking at either a spectra or dorman brand. what are your thoughts?

well thats really good to know. but i havent ever replaced the sending unit and it worked fine untill we replaced the pump. i havent had time to look at it yet but im trying to get to it. ill post anything i find

A few years ago on my 1996 chevy k1500, my dad and I replaced the fuel pump in my truck. It certainly was a learning experience for both of us. we chose to just drop the tank down and do it that way. after we got it all put back together it all worked and it was good to go, however then the gas gage didnt work from half a tank up but it did work from half a tank down. So I figured hey I know when its out of gas right? and it worked that way for several years. untill recently when I put some gas in the tank and now the gas gauge is really freaking out. it bounces from straight down and fighting with the oil pressure gage which probably isnt good. to full to half. but soon as it gets below half a tank it stops freaking out but still doesnt seem accurate. my first thought is fuel sending unit. but i have done a lot of reading about it and heard anything from the instrument cluster to a ground or a bad sending unit or loose sending unit. I do remember when we pulld the tank we didnt know about the little ground wire that went from the tank to up on top of the frame and it seemse to me like we might have stressed it pretty bad what ground does that go to exactly? I plan on checking the grounds, wires first and i want to have the new part on hand if i have to drop the tank again so i dont have to do it twice. Is there anything else i should watch for or check?? thanks