Turns out the horn itself was faulty again (or the shop didn't actually replace it, it was working the day I took it in and began to fail again within a few weeks). Just an odd coincidence that it worked as long as it did after jiggling the harness and connectors at the fuse/relay box it seems. For now I've spliced in a cheapo Hella horn set mounted to the spare battery tray bracket. Sounds wimpy as heck, but better than nothing. Have a much more expensive Piaa horn set waiting to go in this weekend, claims to be louder and lower frequency.
Thanks. I have the basic wiring diagram from the GM Upfitter site. I can not recall if I was getting 12V at the fuse when the horn was inop; will need to check that again when I get a second set of hands again. That would tell be if it is the relay or wiring/circuitry past the fuse. I think I need to get into the fuse block, I'm just worried about breaking it.
True, but it does mean that the trigger is reaching the relay. I do not see a horn relay in the fuse box. My assumption is that the relay itself is inside of the fuse box. I wonder it that is a serviceable item? Back to Google I go.... Edit to add... I forgot I'd been down that path before; the horn relay is integrated into the fuse box.
I've had an intermittent inoperative horn issue for a couple of years now. Horn has been replaced & I cleaned the ground at the frame by the horn. When it fails, it fails from steering wheel switch and key fob, that is one way I know it is not the steering wheel switch/clockspring. The last time it failed (this past summer), I had an extra pair of hands to help diagnose. We used jumper cables to go from the ground connection at the frame directly to the battery to rule out a bad ground. We discovered we could here the relay clicking in the fuse box located driver side in the engine bay. I wiggled the box and the two large locking connectors nearby and the horn began working again. Periodic testing since that had no failures, until today. Out of ~10 attempts the horn only sounded 3 times. Wiggling the fuse box and nearby connections again did not resolve the failure this time. I've attempted to remove the fuse box and the connectors to re-seat, but they do not want to release. I'm concerned with breaking something if I force too hard. What is the trick to re-seat these connections? Is there agreement that I'm on the right track of a bad connection in the area? Since I can hear the relay click, that (to me) rules out the BCM and wiring upstream and leaves me with the connections/wiring leaving the fuse/relay box.
It did pull the same with the old tires. And they swapped LF and RF. No change. They were just too lazy to do the alignment. It shouldn't surprise me. When I bought the truck I had to force them to balance the tires. After agreeing to do so they dropped the air pressure to 50 psi (HD truck with LT tires call for 60F/70R) and told me I don't know what a 3/4 ton truck should ride like. After forcing them to do a road force balance and put the pressure back to factory door spec all was fine.
I'd like to know if the avg tech thinks this is acceptable or would adjust it? Alignment requested when new tires installed. They put it on the rack, got these numbers and never touched it. When I returned and complained of the pull they claimed the did a steering position sensor calibration and the alignment is within spec. The way I read this, the numbers may be technically within spec, but there is significant room for improvement and balance left to right. 2015 GMC 2500HD, 6.0L, 4x4, Double Cab, 8' bed. Thanks
I'd also go through any truck with a fine tooth comb looking for hack job mods. Or have a trusted shop to do so. Past abuse can be hard to detect, but hack work almost always leaves behind some trace. There's been more than one thread on here about stuff like that.
If you are towing over what the VIN/door jam sticker calls for and get into an accident, you will be in a world of legal trouble. Cause of the accident or responsible party will be irrelevant. Something to consider.
I participate on here in a similar way. Read nearly daily, sometimes several times a day but post infrequently. I mostly just respond when I have something new to add to the conversation that hasn't already been said. I have no complaints with a 50-100 post count and/or a time requirement to sell. I disagree somewhat with the 50 post minimum to respond to a classified ad. It was mentioned a new member looking to buy could PM the seller, but how many new people would be aware of that?
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