keakar
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Everything posted by keakar
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well you are a lot braver then me, I wont pull the trigger on another one until I start seeing multiple reports of them finding a fix and owners reporting their trucks are finally fixed and ride smooth as they should be. im optimistic but waiting to see tangible confirmation of the problem is solved. im also surprised people aren't paying attention because if they would take the cash buyout they can turn around and buy another one with around $3000 more then price reduction over their original purchase price they agreed to in the form of extra rebates and discounts off of the price of a new one so they are giving up around $3,000 in free money in the form of extra discounts and rebates being offered to get the lots cleared out to make room for the 2015's. im thinking of picking up a 2005 or 2006 used one to "make due with" until they find the fix or until the 2016's are out and still being reported to be trouble free after 6-8 months
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well its just common sense for the company to do what is in its own best interest and is is definitely in their best interest to solve this issue and not have it repeated for the 2015 trucks, I agree they are just putting out fires here and there trying to keep it contained without actually coming out and saying there is a problem. but that said, GM does care about its reputation for quality it has earned over the years as well as the expected level of quality in standing behind its vehicles when there is an issue and this hurts those reputations so that, along with costing them BIG money, this is a definite problem they want to solve. IMO they certainly don't want to build the 2015 trucks using the same faulty components causing vibration issues or the rest of the things with issues like radios with the 2014's so they have incredible incentive to solve this thing. while its natural to be skeptical about it they are definitely not going to stop searching for the solution IMO
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the depreciation is just for miles driven which isn't much (10 cents a mile I think it is) and I was told by the GM rep handling my case that most times they don't even bother with that unless its over 2000 miles. it is not the same sort of big drop in value that normal depreciation is as far as trade in value, it is depreciated only for damage such as scratching up the paint in the bed or putting a lot of miles on it so you don't lose any of the original purchase price value at time of sale, then they only deduct for anything you did to it. the reason they stopped trying to fix it is the 2015's are coming out so they just want to close the book on the 2014 fiasco and when the service dept works on it, everything the service dept does to the truck (parts and labor) is charged at full retail prices to GM just as though an independent shop were doing it, so GM doesn't want to continue to pay huge money for parts and labor costs for repairs they found rarely if ever solve the issue unless they "fool" the owner into accepting a lower level of vibration thinking it is just the road he is feeling. it makes good sense to stop fixing them until they find the real problem so it can be fixed once and for all, I would prefer not to have my truck torn apart from front to rear replacing all sorts of things hoping to find something that works because once you do all that, things are just never the same and the truck never rides as good as new again (if it ever did ride good)
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I think all he was getting at is its best to hold off on getting any more of these same trucks until we are seeing the issue is fixed and there are no more widespread reports of vibration issues. like maybe try a different brand or get a used 2012 truck and wait it out for the 2016 models to buy a new one this is my plan and with my buy back I will get a 2005 or 2006 Silverado to use until I can trust that chevy isn't still selling lemons
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im thinking the same thing, take a vibrating truck and a truck with miles on it that's smooth and trouble free. on Monday swap tires and rims as a set and retest both on Tuesday swap out drive shafts and retest both on Wednesday swap out tranny and retest both on Thursday swap out rear ends and retest both on Friday swap engines out and retest both now in one week you have found the problem or at least isolated it to one item to be further investigated GM are you listening? this is the quick and easy way to solve this problem, engineers making millions of dollars scratching their heads looking over computer screens is not the way to troubleshoot mechanical problems. swapping out tires and rims and if that doesn't do it, having your service departments going on record as saying that you build trucks that are supposed to vibrate and every truck they have on the lot vibrates too, is NOT a good way to handle this problem
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yep, several people have followed the advice of the deniers who believed because their truck was trouble free that all trucks are fine and we are just a bunch of cry babies over a handful of bad trucks, well its a lot of bad trucks out there and the vibrations even show up in trouble free trucks after 10,000 or 15,000 miles then they start developing the vibrations too. I actually agree with them that not all trucks are bad and the good ones are great trucks, but I don't agree with their attitudes of sticking your head in the sand and trying to pretend GM doesn't have some serious issues going on with a lot of these trucks and they cant seam to fix it or figure out whats wrong with them. the only person I would recommend to go buy one of these trucks now would be someone I really hated.
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because as long as they do a buy back it isn't recorded as a defect and they keep their ability to make claims of best truck. a buy back customer is a happy satisfied customer on paper because the complaint was resolved to the customers satisfaction so that is how its done and kept on the down low
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yes but to what extent is hard to say. regular air contains moisture so it changes things like for instance regular air allows tires to age faster and dry out sooner but nitrogen doesn't. cant explain why but im told the moisture breaks down the rubber over time. what extent this difference really is or the extended life of the tires who knows for sure, it may be a tiny minor difference ort maybe its worth keeping nitrogen in it for the added benefit. adding regular air and nitrogen together just adds moisture with the air but I don't think anything bad to the point you should let all the nitrogen out and start over or vice-versa would be something I would bother doing myself but when my tires were changed in an attempt to find the vibration issues they drained out all the air the tire shop added when they put em on and balanced them and the dealership service dept refilled them all with nitrogen but from experience I can tell you its impossible to get it all out so there will always be some air mixed with the nitrogen
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those sensors are just ball park numbers to tell if you have a problem with a tire and they are not at all accurate, turn your key on and off a few times and they might change. dealer told me the nitrogen they put in tires keeps even pressures so it doesn't change as much as with air and he said nitrogen doesn't leak out like air does???? not sure what he means by that because I never had any air leaking out of any of my tires unless there was a problem with them.
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I tried this too but it seams to be all trucks 4wd or 2wd and happens equally in all the different style configurations the thing that I was still fuzzy about after my efforts to find a common link in all this was the engines involved, never could narrow it down if it was just with the 5.3 v8 which is a pretty popular choice for the average buyer or if its also equally represented problem with the 6.2 v8 and the 4.3 v6 my though process has concluded its in the tranny since that is the only thing they have not tried replacing yet and there seams to be as though its temperature related such as the oil warming up in the tranny since when the truck is driven a few miles it begins to be more noticeable and people up north report it gets worse at certain temperatures
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every state is different, google lemon law for your state some are 3 mine was 4 yours could be ???? who knows so google it
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no you don't need a lawyer, I talked to one and he said I don't need a lawyer, just file with the BBB and the lemon law process takes care of itself GM will not offer to do anything until you file lemon law, then and only then will they try to resolve this with you to preserve their reputation and BBB rating to avoid bad press go here and file https://www.auto.bbb.org/lemon-law-complaint-form/ but make sure you have the number or repair attempts to qualify first or they will tell you the dealer must still be given those chances to fix it.
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sorry to hear it but im not surprised at all, the only known fix for the vibration issue is to replace the truck or get used to it and learn to ignore the vibration. start documenting everything and do your lemon law requirement then file a claim. its up to you if you want a replacement or a refund
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I hope so for your sake but I think you will find that its still there and it just needs to be driven a little to show up or find a smooth road for you to notice it. mine is sometimes very slight then a mile or two down the road it starts up again. seams to get stronger after things warm up and not be that bad when the truck is parked and hasn't been driven and things are cold just left the dealer for service #4 for vibration and he said its a known issue for "some" trucks but GM has no recommended fix for it so they will call me when they know how to fix it, otherwise they consider it "normal" to vibrate
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this caught my eye "Adjusting the U-joint working angles on the current full-size trucks is normally accomplished by moving the center bearing up and/or shimming the axle pinion up about 2 degrees. It is generally not necessary to move the transmission up or down." so it sounds like they commonly come with the wrong u-joint angles from the factory. I doubt if this could be all it is or they would have a service bulletin fix for something that simple but maybe it is in the tranny angle side that a shim wont fix as someone mentioned. do all trucks have the transfer case thingy or is that just the 4 wd ones?
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its called a class action lawsuit, maybe its coming soon if they don't stop saying trucks are supposed to shake and vibrate just because their "so-called" proof that its normal is that all the other trucks on the lot are equally defective and vibrate as well
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near as I can tell nobody ever really gets it fixed they just try things like wheel balancing that reduce it enough so the average person doesn't notice its still there or they don't ride on smooth enough roads to feel it. they don't balance the tires on these trucks so getting a good balance often takes 40% of the vibration away and the rest is from something else and that's what they have no idea how to fix. if you push it you can get a buy back from GM but you have to meet the lemon law requirements and get a lawyer to go through the process which takes months then they buy it back with depreciation for the miles you put on it. but that's often going to be a much better deal then if you trade it in on something else bought my truck Aug 28, 2014 and its been in the service dept for 3 unsuccessful repairs for the vibration issue and they refuse to look at it again after just rebalancing the tires all 3 times, will try a different dealer tomorrow and if they refuse its lawyer time.
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im just repeating what I think I learned about it from reading these threads so im pretty sure you only need to do that shortening of the driveshaft with big lowering kits that flip the axle over the springs which I believe would be the 4/6 or bigger drop kits increased spacing cause by lifting and rotating upward on the rear end of the leaf springs. im sure that someone who knows more about exactly when you have to start looking to see if you need to start cutting the drive shaft lengths will chime in with more accurate info on this
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ok, but I already have the "built in" "chevy designed it that way" vibration so im wondering if I can fix that issue with shims before I go messing with lowering it.
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so your saying if I do the 2" drop shackle and remove the 1.25" spacer block over the axle then that's not much of a change so I don't need to recalibrate for a shim
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I tend to agree, might be an alignment issue from poor drive shaft angles reading about the calculations needed to realign things after lifting or lowering the truck I have to wonder if the factory setup angles might be wrong
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ya I got that part but I also see when the springs rotate upward the angle will change on bot sides, the tranny side and the axle side angles will be different so its more then one angle changing so I cant just restore the axle to the same as it was because it would at that point need to be set differently from the first angle it was at. it doesn't look too hard but it does look hard enough that I could easily get it wrong and if I change it I want it to be right not just "good enough" if you know what I mean.
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ok, I got the truck back and they said they felt it but they didn't do anything at all to the truck because everything was normal and is working fine, this is what the service ticket said: so in other words, they aren't going to fix anything
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thanks guys, that looks complicated and math makes my head hurt lol I guess I could bring it to cottman transmission and have them check it when im done
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thanks because that picture showed the axle under the springs but the wedge was backwards for what happens when you are lowering the thing is how do you go about to measure that angle? just a straight edge laid across the yoke and a set point distance out from the yoke? this actual procedure and how to do it correctly and accurately is something I haven't seen anyone post or provide a link to how to do it
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