09SierraZ71

appreciate the reply, yea i haven't got really any info on them. The 07-13 gmt900 6-axle 14 bolt is almost impossible to find, especially in 3.42 (my current ratio). Seems only rwd 6.0L and 6.2L 07-13 trucks have the 14 bolt whereas the 4wd 6.0L and awd 6.2L (denali) have the 10 bolt with rear dics. Then i looked under a couple k2xx trucks (14+ )and saw they had the 14 bolt (9.5" ring gear) under standard equipment. I don't think gm would change up the whole line-up for the abs/ wheel speed sensors but i don't want to get myself into something that isn't relatively bolt in. On my other cars i have time to experiment but this is my dd and i cant afford to have it down. If anyone else could chime in i'd appreciate it.

Hi all, looking to upgrade to the 14 bolt rear end. I read that the new k2xx series has the 9.5" rear end from the factory with all v8's that don't have the max trailering pkg. Does anyone know if the k2xx rear end fits the gmt900, including working abs, stabilitrak. thanks in advance

Chris is right, that swap is a lot more in depth because of the 8 bolt rear vs the front 6 lug, as well as drive shaft length and pinion angle issues. Your rig will definitely be capable of using the discs because the abs module will adjust to the new "resistance" of the discs. There was a thread on here that someone only upgraded brakes not the whole diff assembly and everything worked fine, well actually improved over drums. One thing i am not sure of is that you may need to get a computer hooked up to bleed the abs module if you don't prevent the air getting to it.

The proportioning valve is most likely inside the abs module (computer controlled)

Hey just a quick question for those of you that have done this project: -when hooking the battery back up, was your radio locked? I can't seem to find a radio code or any info online except that the vin is paired from the bcm to radio. I got all my stuff ready to go, ebony heated (22947767) and clock spring, just did not want to do to without the radio lock out info. I was going to make my own connector for the heated wire (power and ground) but does anyone know if i can get the clip with the pig tail? I agree with Zebrafive ^ The steering wheel puller is a definite must. It's cheap too, can be had for 30 bucks from princess auto or where-ever.

Nice im glad its that quick. Need to get mine done but its too cold to do it now..

Funny because my backlights are all green, except when i take a picture it looks somewhat blueish. My Stock steering wheel buttons look the same color as your pics. How long does the wheel take to warm up?

Looks Great! Where did you order your parts from?

Looks great man! How much did that run you? Also good point about the clock spring, 2013 uses a different one than the 07-2012 trucks. Im placing my order soon, just need to know if the buttons will be blue/white on that steering wheel. Since I would order a seperate cruise with heater button to make sure its green (dont want to waste money if I dont need it),and dont want have to take it apart again. Could you post the part number on the cruise switch and the radio buttons? Thanks

Just looked up the part number for an 09 sierra slt, 09 sierra denali , 2012 and 2013 sierra denali and a 11 and 12 silverado ltz and they all came up with the part number #15824113. 07 escalade and 2010/2011/2012/2013 avalanche came up as #15824112

Hmm that is strange. Mine is an 09 and has green everything.

There doesn't seem to be a straight answer anywhere, i did see someone mention it on another thread but can't find it now, but here's what i came up with, the dash lights and steering wheel lights for the 2012-14 tahoe are white/blue as well as all escalades 07+, 11/12+ sierra denali, 2012-13 avalanche. The rest of them like silverados, sierra, and suburban are all green.

The part numbers you are looking for: clockspring coil: 25966964 ($125 gmpartsdirect) Wheel Harness: 25807858 ($72 gmpartsdirect) From what i understand you need to pick a terminal from the fuse block that is only "hot" when the key is on the on/run position. Then its up to you to turn it off when it gets too hot (although im sure theres a heat sensor in there that turns it off when need be). But when you take the key out its off and once the key is reinserted it stays off until you press it again. Hope that helps you. Ashton

Just saw something that caught my attention the newer trucks that have Blue/white-ish color on the the steering wheel controls.. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTMyWDgwMA==/z/AaQAAOSwnDxUkGN0/$_57.JPG So may need to order 1 new left side switch for the heater button and re-use the right side since its the same green, unless there's a tiny bulb inside the switch? Can anybody shed some light on this? Green cruise with heater switch: #15824113 Blue/White cruise with heater switch: #15824112

Thanks Woody, I am referring to the B+ source. i don't mind the ground wire attachment. So i need to run power and ground then it seems, which terminal from the fuse block could i use, unless there is a slot for the heated steering system already. I would not mess with the clock spring, i'm buying a new one meant for the heated steering wheel when i place the order for the new wheel. I simply was wondering the harness was worth the 72 dollars on gmpartsdirect.