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About Formulabruce

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  1. Try Here https://www.justchevytrucks.com/
  2. when automotive manufacturing got away from Lead solder, the low melt replacement caused some cold solder joints after some years. This is most likely your problem in the cluster. It could also be the stepper motor itself. I have changed about 40 of these and re soldered about 60 clusters. GM used to have a replacement rebuild program many years ago for these type of problems. Now you can trade your cluster on ebay to a guy for one of his plus a couple hundred bucks, you send him your vin and mileage. Good luck!
  3. IIRC the GCWR should be 14,000 lbs with the 3.73, and 16,000 with the 4.10. The only reason the 4.11 has more is due to where the torque max is with that ratio. While truck brakes are important, trailer brakes need to be up to the duty and work with the trucks brakes.
  4. Was the dash switch assembly Brand new?
  5. It has that, of sorts, under the Drivers door, on the frame. The main cable has a sort of hood on it with a slice, where the other cable joins it. That "hood" is then pulled by the front cable. I will post a pic tomorrow
  6. These two rear cable join along the DS just behind the door on exterior of the frame. This part, If the rest is hooked up, you do last. To get it hooked, youll need to drag the front cable back ( make sure pedal inside is UP, may have to release and pull up on pedal, or bungie it up ) Pull back on the front cable with vise grips and slide the combined cable holder on to that front cable. I have had these E brake set ups and rear bearings, seals, backing plates apart many times.
  7. I helped a guy with a '05 2500HD SLE regular cab do this. I think the only purpose for these in a truck with no remote is that they lock when you put the truck into drive. Unlock when you put in park as a safety feature. As I recall, we ended up putting a BCM from a SLE "king cab" ( no rear power windows) in his truck. The truck in the Junk yard had power windows and locks. We never plugged in the windows. The windows we never upgraded and left alone. Used remote model # LHJ011 good luck !
  8. The correct place for this is in the 1500 forum.. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/3-1999-2013-silverado-sierra-1500/
  9. According to the Brochure your Dually's GCVWR is 20-22K lbs depending on the rear axle, 3.73 or 4.11 . Actual towing is 22K - your truck ( say 6k lbs) that is 16K . This sounds about right, and near the limit. Many ratings are limited due to braking. GM tends to under rate towing for legal reasons involving unknown brakes on trailers. Cameron is correct a LOT has been Beefed up ( probably due to competition). 5th wheel is safest , I agree 100%. There IS a difference in The Gross Combined Vehicle weight Rating, and Bed capacity, and Weight on hitch, and towing capacity.
  10. Scroll through your DIC and look at the hours. Could be this truck had the Gauges fixed and the mileage is wrong? If its Not making noise, and has power still, I would buy a quart of MOTORKOTE and put it all in with a oil change. Motorkote can and will coat the bearing surfaces and protect them. You tube has a good video from a channel called 'Project farm" and he does a good comp on a few of these products and how they work.
  11. might be able to weld the rod that bent or cracked and bent, but you have to get it perfect or the wiper arm will come out and scrape the hood as it runs. . If the plastic ball area is still ok
  12. There was some wear and slop oriented issues with the plastic "ball type" joint in these from 2000 -2007 as I recall. They wore and broke in the winter and Even O'reilly's stocked the whole wiper mechanism ( under the plastic "grate") I have replaced a few of them. Heavy wet snow that freezes can really mess them up. First symptoms were the blade going to far on the "A pillar" on the DS and basically off the truck. when the parts store has it readily available, its been breaking on people..
  13. Back in the early 200's GM switched away from using lead solder on the electronics. Many, if not ALL trucks 1999-2007 had cold solder joint problems in the cluster causing gauges to not work right, lights on, etc. You should try removing your cluster and unplugging it, and see if the truck runs, and stays running. You should be able to drive it this way too. Removing the cluster is on "youTube" If truck still stalls, may have a ecm ground under hood or engine ground pass side of engine rear to look into. Most folks with this year truck have had a rebuilt cluster, or did it themselves..
  14. Sounds like the BCM isnt working right.. Under the truck, Driver side door) on the Drivers side Frame Extension , that mounts the cab, There are a few wires grounding the ele system and the BCM. This is on the REARWARD facing part of the frame extension. They need to be cleaned well, and the frame cleaned WELL and re installed and covered in some marine grease ( waterproof) . This should make a difference and cost is minimal..
  15. To "guess" ; I would say the wiring harness inside the transmission is brittle, and or, a upshift solenoid is not working. Have seen plenty of these rebuilt and the harness not replaced.
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