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Formulabruce

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About Formulabruce

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  1. I will check one of mine today and post later on
  2. You have a square 12 volt fuseable link missing. Many trucks never got these from the factory as they are not needed for trailering most trailers. Under the hood Drivers side, lift off the cover, the one missing is close to the engine. Its a 4 pin plug in.
  3. You will need to check the air cleaner assembly and make sure its clean. Also need to remove the air intake and Clean the throttlebody and Throttle plate ( Both sides) . Use Throttlebody cleaner and a cloth towel, not paper. This area has to be super clean. Good luck!
  4. Yeah, you would have to get one in your hands with a few brackets they offer and hold it in place and see. Was just brainstorming the one switch Idea.
  5. Only need a idle solenoid from a carburetor, mount on the TB housing..
  6. The air intake , pull ff the big hose to the TB and clean that whole area Very well. Both sides of the throttle plate with THROTTLE BODY CLEANER, ONLY. I am sure your truck needs it if it has not been done. It can cause some issues. Good luck!
  7. Has to be the dash A/C switch, and, or, the air direction control switch on the dash. It should cycle on Defrost. Power to #87 happens when pressure is satisfied and the A/C switch is on, or one of defrost positions is selected. make sure the controls are on outside air when you try a defrost mode. I am betting its in the dash. Good [email protected]!
  8. Did you know that the AC compressor clutch WILL cycle On and off when the Control inside is on ANY part of a "defrost" ?? Yes it cycles in the winter too when defrost is selected, or partially selected. Maybe you do Not have an issue?
  9. I put in a 160 T-stat Every summer, and run the stock one in the winter. This really keeps engine and more importantly the Trans temps way down during towing. My engine Always runs in Closed loop with the 160 T stat. A/C works better too. If it has one in it during the winter, it can be a bit too cool running. In the summer, unless sitting for an hour, mine runs at around 180-185 while moving, with a load. If you live in the south, or southwest, I would leave it alone as it could save your transmission.
  10. Your truck may have a older remote starter ??. Some were hooked into and worked with the OEM door locks, etc. If so, could be a brake switch issue. Good luck, and welcome to the Forums !
  11. Chances are the oil cooler lines to radiator are leaking as well. very common ..
  12. Most likely Transmission fluid, so get under there and find the wettest spot, and fix the transmission line. Could be running from further up towards the transmission cooler.
  13. Nope. You can do it without removing the X member. Need a shorty wrench and its a bit tight for 2 screws. I ALWAYS Re-USE the factory seal. Its thick rubber and has metal inside. This is far superior to a folded up paper gasket and needs no sealer. I like to put on a much larger trans cooler too out front, fairly easy as well. Good luck !
  14. Drive by Cable throttle, check out where the cable meets the throttle body.
  15. clean the grounds at the cab frame extension under the Driver side, and facing to the rear of the cab mount. This grounds the BCM and is a FREE place to start your troubleshooting. Next I would do the engine to firewall ground, pass side rear of engine.
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