Formulabruce started following Tow/haul not working and it's not the broken wire issue, Truck making new sound, 2006 Chevy, AC issues and and 7 others
More than likely your Caliper is sticking. 1. Either the caliper piston is sticking, or 2. The caliper itself is NOT "floating" on its mounting pins in and out, or 3. The brake pad "tabs" are too big and are catching on the stainless clips that hold them in place, and they are jammed in. Grinding the tabs when you do a brake job may be necessary as they are stamped, not cut and can be bigger than needed. Lube the mounting pins and make sure boots are good, and make CERTAIN the pads can move in those clips. I even put a tiny bit of never seize on the tabs after grinding them. Metallic brake pads wear the rotors much faster than a ceramic pad. Good Luck
99% chance this has a 5th wheel in the bed ( hence the long bed needed for 5th wheel) So being towed, how does the tranmission run at temp?, does it have a bigger cooler up front, any service records. Unless it runs perfect and quiet, no big smoke, and body has no rust, I would limit the money to 10K. Its an auction and buyers CAN NOT ask the owner a thing usually. These long bed trucks are a pain to park unless you have a lot of room. Look underneath at back behind rear bumper for rust and rockers for rust, and bottom of front fenders for rust. Cab mounts at back of car are for falling through issues. Good luck !
Hate to ask this far into your diagnosis, but did you remove the air box hose clamp and COMPLETELY CLEAN the Throttle Body with Throttlebody cleaner, ( not carb cleaner) and both sides of the plate? This can cause stumbling and even a stall. It has to be spotless.
Glad you found it and got it running with No wiring to do!. I forgot it was that many Amps, its been about 7 years since I did mine. I dont think mine had the fake plug it in. Thanks for posting the video. This thread is searchable, so Im sure others will see it.
I was just going to post this info. This is excellent. Get into the DIC and see if you can adjust the lock delay, mine is at 15 .
Factory Harness Connector may NOT have 12 in the connector. It may be tied back in the harness, or if connected to the connector at back of truck, a Circuit breaker is missing ( on purpose) in the fuse box under the hood. I believe its closer to the engine side as you look at the box from the DS fender.( cover off) I think its a 20 amp plug in breaker. It may say aux. pwr, and not trailer power. Look at the diagram inside the cover . You will find it. Buy a couple breakers and you will be good. These come from the Factory with NO breaker, even if it has trailer connector installed. Not everyone has a camper, so its not mandated for trailering. Edit: This can drain your battery in a hurry if you do not have it switched inside your trailer or camper.
I had those symptoms with a dirty throttle body. Remove the huge hose clamp and clean the whole area well with Throttle body cleaner, NOT carb cleaner. Clean the throttle plate as well, both sides. This will sometimes throw a code, but not always. A bottle of Throttle body cleaner and 15 min with a clean lint free RAG JUST MIGHT HELP. Good luck ! Ps I run 160 T-stats in my LS engines in the summer and they all work in closed loop and run about 15 degrees cooler.
TCM is the Transmission control module, NOT the Body control module. The only connection to the doors could be the BCM Ground, usually on the cab mount below the drivers door and facing to the rear. Clean it up well, and then grease it when your done. TCM reprogram , might try this. Procedure Reset Transmission Adaptive Learning DIY Turn the key to position 2. You should see all the dash lights come on. ... Press the gas pedal all the way. ... Wait. ... Turn key to OFF, position 0. ... Release the gas pedal. Wait 2 minutes. ... Start the car and drive. To buy a new one... https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-24256861-Professional-Transmission-Control/dp/B005OVLAXQ/ref=asc_df_B005OVLAXQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312712394155&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6923791407872996604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002480&hvtargid=pla-434261431180&psc=1
It could indeed be programing. Th T/H just shuts off the Lock up converter solenoid, and I believe in newer trucks delays the upshift a bit into any over drives. I believe it is a simple fix, and could well be in needs the TCM re programed.
Mileage on this transmission? Things to keep in mind. 1. Changing a solenoid that relates to the code may not actually fix the problem because these solenoids slide into a "bore", and if the bore is worn, you can get fluid bypass. When you have bypass, it can cause a late shift and a slamming effect. The wiring harness does get brittle. What you propose doing might be a good place to start, but keep in mind other hard parts could be worn. USE the ORIGINAL PAN GASKET. Its rubber and has a Metal plate in it. The aftermarket are thin paper and are not nearly as good. If it doesnt have an original gasket, I would get one from GM. No need for RTV either. The bolts under the cross member make taking the pan down a bit tricky. 2. Could be the related clutches are worn. 3. Could be the previous owner had the problem and did a Transmission service before selling it. 4. There was some updates done on the 4L series in 2004 in the Valve body. 5. IF you end up getting a rebuild, I would buy a NEW and updated valve body ( so you are SURE the bores for the solenoids are perfect. Cheap rebuilds don't usually mess with the solenoid bores. 6. Get a New SONAX BOOST valve for the Pump ( front of transmission, not underneath). The pump can have wear in this area as well and you can get uneven pressure with a worn boost valve and or housing for it. 7. On your rig, behind the grille, there is plenty of room for a much larger transmission cooler. For under 60 bucks and 1.5 hours , you can double the size of the cooling capacity of the transmission. Good luck !
I would remove the air box ( one large hose clamp) and then Clean the throttle and plate ( both sides) very thoroughly, with Throttle body cleaner ( not carb cleaner). Even a slight air restriction or dirt on the plate can cause some problems. This area needs to be "surgical clean" to work well.
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