Truck payments might be cut by 1/2, but FUEL payments would be double . 8.1 really isn't supported much anymore by GM Might cost you more in maintenance, "E" rated tires Check the E brake and rear brakes on it if Disc. These all had front brake line rust out issues. Look directly behind the drivers side front tire with wheels to the right and you can see on the frame where they tend to rust. GM has a kit offered by the trucks VIN, which has coated lines.
It could need a new gas cap. Have seen this before a few years ago. I remember it being something simple like the gas cap. Good luck !
The rear axle seal is a 1 piece unit that actually spins inside itself to work correctly. The ones I buy from Napa are all one piece and I put them on with no lube as they fit tight on the hub and internally rotate. The gear oil goes outside the axle to the cover plate, then back and up a little to the bearing.
Mileage is typical. I turn mine on and off, just make sure Im not lugging the lock up any. But steep? I do leave it on, and downshift sometimes. New trucks ( with cruise on) downshift but you cant even feel it.
Check your air cleaner ( gauge) . Its on the air cleaner box. You may need a new element. I would also take off the big air intake hose and clean the throttle body extremely well, both sides of the plate. This has to be perfectly clean. Mine will do a P0446 if I overfill the gas tank sometimes. Good luck !
GM has 4 plants in China, and the GMC Terrain is made in Mexico, with many others. Almost ALL the Buicks are made in China. Be glad you have a job, and take the GM offer.
The coolant is a good idea. Leave the hoses if the around the spring clamps, they look ok. That said, When I tow south of New England, I take off the big air intake, move it up and out of the way then remove the thermostat housing ( 2 -10 mm screws) , this will drain a lot of the coolant, install a 160 thermostat. The truck will run in closed loop fine, no codes, and the transmission temps will be less. The stock trans cooler, IMHO is barely good enough for towing anything substantial and keep trans under 200. Installing a bigger cooler is easy once you remove the pins holding headlights and the grill. Clean the throttle body, with throttlebody cleaner while the big air hose is off. Clean both sides of the throttle plate as well. It must be spotless. If you buy concentrate, use Distilled water with it. Good luck!
You sure your truck is a HD? They made a regular duty 2500 back then. Its similar to the 1500HD made a few years later. Heavier duty springs will make the ride horrendous, and make traction a thing of the past. If you aftermarket and put in a "original" rating spring, it WILL have a higher arch and be rated for more than the original. Unless you have a constant load in the bed, I would try to get a good used set. A junk yard can tell you what fits with their Hollander manual.
Tensioner bearing is probably toast, this is common on trucks over 5 years old in some areas. Its cheap part and in stock at any autoparts store. Bulb is soldered in. not all are near a gauge though. Typically its the cold solder joints. Sometimes you can just hit it with a soldering iron and it works, no replacement.
If the lights come on, It is probably Not the solution I mentioned. Are you moving when attempting the 4hi to 2 wd? I find I end up putting the transmission in Neutral if stopped takes any strain off the Transfer case shifter. Sound like the motor is workin, just sticking going in. AT -20 oF I have had it go a couple min before working if stopped. Moving, it seems to unlock the 4x4 easy. The T case has some wear points and can leak if the case gets worn, so check the fluid level.. Good luck !
> "Drives a 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 " << Jordan, Consider posting a question like this in the 1500/ 1/2 ton forum on this site. There are many differences. You should specify what type of lift it is when you post there ( body or suspension)
This will fix your problem. In the early 200's GM started using a crappy type of solder to get rid of any lead solder. This affected the control panel lighting, and the stepper motors on our trucks as most know. This also affects the circuit board on the back of the 4WD switches. Remove the dash bezel ring/cover, then pry out the switch.There are tabs holding it in place. Unplug the connector with a flat blade screwdriver. Pry the board out and re solder every terminal that's soldered. I use a tiny dot of soldering flux/paste, then a drop of new solder. I have done many with a 150 watt gun. it was fast . I have done this 5 times on trucks with same issue, even my own . Good luck !
2 batteries? -33 degrees.. gas truck ... RPO K05 is where I would be spending my money, not bigger batteries. In the cold, electricity flows Much better and with little resistance in wire. Cold can affect the rotational resistance of almost anything though. The closer the plates are inside a battery, the more they put in, and the better chance you have of a shorted cell. More CCA does NOT always mean a better battery, if it calcifies or shorts quickly. Typically your deep cycle batteries are bigger, but have more room between the plates. Bigger battery without a huge amount of CCA is the ticket. Warming the batteries is also the ticket. Of course a K05 would probably fix it all ..
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