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bronyaur

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About bronyaur

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    Enthusiast

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  • Website URL
    http://www.huntcalifornia.us

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  • Name
    Matt
  • Location
    Napa, CA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    '98 K1500 5.7L

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  1. Part Number Needed

    According to the GM parts diagram, the part number for the bolts is 11589015, and is size M4.2 X 1.4 X 20. Amazon has a kit: https://www.amazon.com/General-Motors-BOLT-11589015/dp/B008Y8SIO0
  2. Part Number Needed

    That would be great. I found one on eBay back in December and the guy wanted $62 for it. I hesitated and it sold. Now I can't find another one. If you find it let me know and I'm sure we can agree on a price, provided it's the right part. In the post above it says that there's a different part no. for bucket seats with a center console and it won't fit in my standard cab truck.
  3. Part Number Needed

    Excellent info. Thank you all very much.
  4. 2002 Silverado 1500 Standard Cab I need to find the part number for this piece. I'm not sure what it's called but it's the cover that goes over the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side. It's the first thing that needs to be removed when replacing the cabin air filter. I've seen it called a "hush cover", "blower motor access cover", etc. The picture came from a part that had previously been sold on eBay. You can see part of a number on the cover but not the whole number. Google searches on the partial number have come up empty. Thanks.
  5. I recently had the P0430 code. Because I'm at 191k miles and still on the original O2 sensors, I went ahead and changed them out. But, before I did, I found a very large exhaust leak where the cat Y-pipe bolts to the flange at the head of the tailpipe. The flange is between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. I replaced the gasket and the O2 sensors and reset the code. It's been 4 months and I've not seen that code again. Either the leak or bad sensors (or both) can set the code, although I've always been told that 99% of the time the cats are bad. The front bearings are part of a non-serviceable hub. The usual indicator that they are going bad is having the ABS activate at low speed just before you come to a stop. They usually don't squeak when bad, but rather make a grinding noise. You can remove the wheel, caliper and rotor, then the big nut in the middle. After that I think there's just 3 bolts attaching the hub. No impact driver needed. Remove the hub and grab the bearing. Move it around and look for any play. It should be tight and just spin. If it's bad you'll need to replace the hub assembly. You didn't say if the squeak is only during braking or not, or if it sounds like it's rotational. In the front, the likely culprit are the brake pads. If they're worn, the metal howler will make contact with the rotor and make all kinds of noise. Or, the pads are producing harmonics and need to have anti-squeak stuff applied to them to make it stop. There could be other causes but those are the most usual and most obvious. In the rear, worn shoes can expose the rivets causing them to make contact with the drum. Sometimes other components come loose and make contact with something they're not supposed to touch. Pull the drum and make a visual inspection.
  6. I've had the best luck with the NAPA Auto Parts kit (NOE 6755164). The bushings on the Dorman set (38416) seem way too soft.
  7. I don't think you'll see the reading change as you move the distributor. I turn the motor off, move the distributor, start the motor, raise the throttle above 1000rpm and that's when I see the CMP offset get updated. What I'm reading suggests a little different procedure (like raising the engine above 1500rpm), but the main thing is that the engine needs to drop below 1000rpm (or shut off), then raised above 1000rpm (or 1500rpm, depending on what you read) to update. I'm not sure I ever really paid attention to my actual engine rpms when updating the cmp offset. I typically start the engine and snap the throttle up and watch the numbers update.
  8. Try to set the CMP offset with the engine running at 1000-1200 rpm. You really need to get it set at zero (or dang close to it). You will experience hesitations at highway speeds and they will gradually worsen.
  9. Sorry, but I should have mentioned that the DashCommand app will not read the CMP offset unless and until you add the PID and pay an additional $10 for that feature. Go to the Data Grid and select "Add PID" at the bottom right of the screen. On the ensuing screen, make sure "Supported PIDs" is selected at the top, then select "General". At the top of the list you will see "CMP Retard (CKP/CMP Correlation)". That's the one you want. That's probably the only additional feature you'd ever have to add. Make sure you raise the engine RPMs over 1000 to accurately read the CMP offset. Watch the reading change after you reach 1000rpm and you'll understand why this is important. The other thing to mention is that the original distributor came with a slotted hold-down that allows you to turn the distributor a half inch or so either direction. Every aftermarket hold-down I've seen does not have this slot which makes it impossible to properly set the CMP offset. Hopefully you have the original.
  10. You need to set the CMP offset. It needs to be 0, but at least +/-2. This involves moving the distributor slightly either direction until you get the CMP offset to 0. I've seen it cause a hesitation without setting a code, and I haven't seen the code come on until its around +/-14. You'll need a scan tool that can read the CMP offset. I use the DashCommand app on my phone with a wireless scanner that plugs into the OBD port. Ditch that distributor and get a new one. The best I've found is a billet aluminum from Summit Racing (after having nightmare issues with a couple plastic ones from NAPA). The one from the salvage yard might have a worn gear, even if it doesn't look like it. And, with the cap not being securely attached, that cap might just be floating on there. These engines are really picky about the distributor. Also, you didn't mention changing the fuel filter, but that's a good place to start if you haven't yet. You can get a can of MAF cleaner and take care of that (assuming it's otherwise in working condition), and you can pull the plugs to see if they're fouled. Try running the engine at night in the dark and you may be able to see arcing around the distributor or wires.
  11. NV3500 Transmission

    I did a little research and see people talking about a plastic cup that fits in the end of the shifter. Is this what you're referring to?
  12. I recently inherited a 2002 Silverado 1500 Standard cab 4.8L 4x4 manual NV3500 transmission. It has 208k miles on it. My oldest son is 14 and we plan to restore it so he'll have something to drive when he gets his license. It drives very nicely. There's some slop in the front end and I expect it's due a pitman and idler arm, ball joints, and probably tie rod ends. Aside from that, the only thing that concerns me is shifting from 2nd to 3rd. It's really hard to find 3rd gear, and when I do it takes a little force to get it in there. Downshifting from 4th to 3rd is smooth. Any ideas as to the cause and fix?
  13. I have had this problem on both my GMT400 vehicles and both times it was the wheel bearings. The first time I went through all the same stuff looking at TSBs, cleaning the wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces, checking voltage, etc. Then I saw a post from a senior GM tech on this forum telling everyone to stop wasting time and check their wheel bearings. Pull the hub, grab the bearing and see if it's sloppy. Sure enough. The second time I went straight to the hubs and found the same thing. Any solution to this problem should include an inspection of the wheel bearings, especially for those of us on the west coast where corrosion isn't such an issue.
  14. The biggest clue here is the brake pedal sticking down, which leads me to suspect something mechanical related to the pedal. Either the brake booster itself is binding it up or there's something in the connector rod or pedal fulcrum that's catching. Check the rod connected at the top of the pedal. The clip that holds it on there is a pain in the ass. It typically gets removed/installed by feel as it's almost impossible to get your hands up there and see what you're doing at the same time. Perhaps the clip is not on straight or the top may be pointed in an unfavorable direction and it's catching on something. I don't recall how that rod attaches to the brake booster but that's another thing to check. The final thing is the pedal fulcrum. Make sure it's not binding in some manner.
  15. If the lines going in and out of the accumulator are cold, the next stop is the evaporator. Is the evaporator getting cold? Is the fan motor working?
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