Jump to content

bronyaur

Member
  • Content Count

    224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About bronyaur

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    Array

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

3,526 profile views
  1. Buy an OBDII wifi adapter for $20-$30 (I bought one made by FOSEAL from Amazon for $20), then download the DashCommand app for $10. Once you have that you'll need to add the "CMP R e t a r d (CKP/CMP Correlation)" PID within the DashCommand app for another $10. So, it will cost about $50 total, but I've not seen a cheaper way to do it.
  2. Have you properly set the cam r e t a r d offset? That can cause all kinds of stumbling and misfires.
  3. Tail lights and dash lights are on the same circuit. When both are out, it's likely a fuse, but may also be the switch. With the headlight switch on, use a test light on the fuse to check both sides. Power on one side but not the other is a bad fuse. No power to either side is likely the switch or some problem between the switch and fuse. Also, these trucks often have a trailer pigtail connector that intercepts the light wires at a connection near the spare tire. Those connectors go bad and cause no end of gremlins, but usually don't affect the dash lights. I have seen them interfere with the brake and tail lights. Speaking of gremlins, make sure your body/engine ground strap and battery grounds are in good condition and have a good connection. There are other possibilities but those are the usual suspects.
  4. Check all your grounds and your main ground strap. Grounds are famous for gremlins. That's where I would start. As for your cargo box light, mine only comes on when the switch is on and driver door is open.
  5. Did you set the cam retard (CMP) offset? I've had strange misfire gremlins when it's not set correctly. You'd think it would set a code if out of spec (+/-2), but I've seen it off as much as -14 and not set a code. Make sure you check it with the engine above 1500 rpm.
  6. It's the shocks. I was leaving for a trip and found one of my Rancho shocks was blown (12 years old with a lot of miles). None of the local parts houses had anything I really wanted so I had to settle for Monroe Gas Magnums. My truck now does the same bouncing thing you're describing. I figured I'd get a few years out of them so I can say I didn't waste my money, and then I'll order the Ranchos I had before.
  7. I have the Tekonsha P3 and have been very happy with it. eTrailer has several videos about it and how to install it. https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html
  8. Yes, the cam retard offset is the data you want. It should be no more than +/- 2. Anything more will cause a hesitation, most often recognized when cruising on the freeway, but occasionally on acceleration from a stop as well. Make sure you read the data while the engine is a little over 1500rpm.
  9. There's a pic but no video so can't hear anything. However, the A/C only has one moving part - the compressor. If it's making noise and blowing hot air, it's done. To fix it, there's a lot more to it than just replacing parts.
  10. In regards to those gauges that come with the recharge kit, they don't really tell you anything except that you can see the pressure increase as you add (or not if there's a leak). The only way to check for a blockage without opening the system and visually inspecting the orifice tube is to attach a proper set of manifold gauges. After letting the engine sit for several hours, without starting it, a charged system will show static pressure that should be even between the high and low sides. If they are uneven, there may be a blockage. If the compressor runs after jumping the low pressure cutoff switch, it's likely undercharged and/or has a leak. A set of manifold gauges will tell you what you need to know. Now, depending on what the gauges say, what you do from there can go many directions.
  11. Part of replacing a lower control arm is backing the tension off the the torsion bar on that side, and returning the tension when finished. Also, the end of the torsion bar is hexagonal and fits into a hexagonal slot in the lower control arm. The torsion bar needs to be properly indexed into this slot or there will be too much, or too little, tension when the adjustment bolt is returned to where it was before the repair began. The torsion bars on each side need to be adjusted equally. It is likely that the torsion arm was not properly indexed or adjusted following the repair, resulting in the repaired side riding higher or lower than the other. There is an adjustment bolt that meets the torsion arm key. Check the adjustment on the side that was not repaired. Turn the adjustment bolt on the opposite side to match the properly adjusted side. If they are matched, and one side is still higher than the other, the torsion bar is improperly indexed. There are videos on YouTube that show how to adjust torsion bars. Sometimes it is best explained in videos showing lower control arm replacement.
  12. Torsion bar cranked more on the driver side, or something broken in the suspension on the passenger side? How long has it been that way and what, if any, changes were made before you noticed it?
  13. I also got a set of 2016 Silverado 18" rims and put LT275/65R18 tires on them and I have had 0 issues. You might get away with 285 width, but that's questionable. The guy at the tire shop told me the LT275/70R18 would not fit.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.