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About bronyaur

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    Napa, CA
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  • Drives
    '98 K1500 5.7L

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  1. Ride height issue

    Part of replacing a lower control arm is backing the tension off the the torsion bar on that side, and returning the tension when finished. Also, the end of the torsion bar is hexagonal and fits into a hexagonal slot in the lower control arm. The torsion bar needs to be properly indexed into this slot or there will be too much, or too little, tension when the adjustment bolt is returned to where it was before the repair began. The torsion bars on each side need to be adjusted equally. It is likely that the torsion arm was not properly indexed or adjusted following the repair, resulting in the repaired side riding higher or lower than the other. There is an adjustment bolt that meets the torsion arm key. Check the adjustment on the side that was not repaired. Turn the adjustment bolt on the opposite side to match the properly adjusted side. If they are matched, and one side is still higher than the other, the torsion bar is improperly indexed. There are videos on YouTube that show how to adjust torsion bars. Sometimes it is best explained in videos showing lower control arm replacement.
  2. Ride height issue

    Torsion bar cranked more on the driver side, or something broken in the suspension on the passenger side? How long has it been that way and what, if any, changes were made before you noticed it?
  3. I also got a set of 2016 Silverado 18" rims and put LT275/65R18 tires on them and I have had 0 issues. You might get away with 285 width, but that's questionable. The guy at the tire shop told me the LT275/70R18 would not fit.
  4. Yes, that's the correct part. GM89018367 is the same as ACDelco 15-72106.
  5. Did you set the CMP offset on the distributor? To be within spec it should be between +/- 2. A trouble code of P1345 might get stored if it is out of spec, although I've seen it as much as -14 and the code hadn't been set (but the engine hesitated and backfired as you described).
  6. It's most likely the steering wheel position sensor (EVO sensor) on the steering column. I replaced mine at 60k miles and now I'm at 200k miles and I've had no further problems. That sudden movement in the steering wheel can be a bit unnerving.
  7. Update: I got the new part and successfully installed it, although I was not able to get the top screw back in. Getting it out seemed to take forever, even after I manufactured a tool to make it easier. The old actuator had a cracked main gear. The bushing in the middle of that main gear, which attaches to the blend door, is made of metal. The bushing on the new part is made of plastic. But, the GM part was $65 and the one I got was $18, so there you go. I removed the blower motor and made sure the actuator operated the door properly, and that nothing was blocking it. And, for what its worth, this actuator operates the door that selects either outside air or recirculates the inside air.
  8. Part Number Needed

    Part received. Thank you very much, Bob. When I get a chance to work on the truck I'll let you know if it fits as-is or if it requires a bit of modification.
  9. My truck just started making a loud clicking noise under the glove box. I tracked it to the actuator next to the blower. I can see the part number on it using a small mirror: 16167292. I ordered it from Amazon for $18. It has two mounting screws requiring a 7/32" socket. The bottom one is easy. The top one is very challenging, but if you're persistent and try a variety of tools, you'll get it in far less time than it would take to remove the dash and all the HVAC hardware it would take to get to it (I say that but I haven't actually done it yet - I've found videos and read about others doing it). I'll give you an update when I get the part.
  10. Part Number Needed

    According to the GM parts diagram, the part number for the bolts is 11589015, and is size M4.2 X 1.4 X 20. Amazon has a kit: https://www.amazon.com/General-Motors-BOLT-11589015/dp/B008Y8SIO0
  11. Part Number Needed

    That would be great. I found one on eBay back in December and the guy wanted $62 for it. I hesitated and it sold. Now I can't find another one. If you find it let me know and I'm sure we can agree on a price, provided it's the right part. In the post above it says that there's a different part no. for bucket seats with a center console and it won't fit in my standard cab truck.
  12. Part Number Needed

    Excellent info. Thank you all very much.
  13. 2002 Silverado 1500 Standard Cab I need to find the part number for this piece. I'm not sure what it's called but it's the cover that goes over the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side. It's the first thing that needs to be removed when replacing the cabin air filter. I've seen it called a "hush cover", "blower motor access cover", etc. The picture came from a part that had previously been sold on eBay. You can see part of a number on the cover but not the whole number. Google searches on the partial number have come up empty. Thanks.
  14. I recently had the P0430 code. Because I'm at 191k miles and still on the original O2 sensors, I went ahead and changed them out. But, before I did, I found a very large exhaust leak where the cat Y-pipe bolts to the flange at the head of the tailpipe. The flange is between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. I replaced the gasket and the O2 sensors and reset the code. It's been 4 months and I've not seen that code again. Either the leak or bad sensors (or both) can set the code, although I've always been told that 99% of the time the cats are bad. The front bearings are part of a non-serviceable hub. The usual indicator that they are going bad is having the ABS activate at low speed just before you come to a stop. They usually don't squeak when bad, but rather make a grinding noise. You can remove the wheel, caliper and rotor, then the big nut in the middle. After that I think there's just 3 bolts attaching the hub. No impact driver needed. Remove the hub and grab the bearing. Move it around and look for any play. It should be tight and just spin. If it's bad you'll need to replace the hub assembly. You didn't say if the squeak is only during braking or not, or if it sounds like it's rotational. In the front, the likely culprit are the brake pads. If they're worn, the metal howler will make contact with the rotor and make all kinds of noise. Or, the pads are producing harmonics and need to have anti-squeak stuff applied to them to make it stop. There could be other causes but those are the most usual and most obvious. In the rear, worn shoes can expose the rivets causing them to make contact with the drum. Sometimes other components come loose and make contact with something they're not supposed to touch. Pull the drum and make a visual inspection.
  15. I've had the best luck with the NAPA Auto Parts kit (NOE 6755164). The bushings on the Dorman set (38416) seem way too soft.

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