I also got a set of 2016 Silverado 18" rims and put LT275/65R18 tires on them and I have had 0 issues. You might get away with 285 width, but that's questionable. The guy at the tire shop told me the LT275/70R18 would not fit.
bronyaur replied to Farmin's topic in 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 PlatformDid you set the CMP offset on the distributor? To be within spec it should be between +/- 2. A trouble code of P1345 might get stored if it is out of spec, although I've seen it as much as -14 and the code hadn't been set (but the engine hesitated and backfired as you described).
It's most likely the steering wheel position sensor (EVO sensor) on the steering column. I replaced mine at 60k miles and now I'm at 200k miles and I've had no further problems. That sudden movement in the steering wheel can be a bit unnerving.
Update: I got the new part and successfully installed it, although I was not able to get the top screw back in. Getting it out seemed to take forever, even after I manufactured a tool to make it easier. The old actuator had a cracked main gear. The bushing in the middle of that main gear, which attaches to the blend door, is made of metal. The bushing on the new part is made of plastic. But, the GM part was $65 and the one I got was $18, so there you go. I removed the blower motor and made sure the actuator operated the door properly, and that nothing was blocking it. And, for what its worth, this actuator operates the door that selects either outside air or recirculates the inside air.
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My truck just started making a loud clicking noise under the glove box. I tracked it to the actuator next to the blower. I can see the part number on it using a small mirror: 16167292. I ordered it from Amazon for $18. It has two mounting screws requiring a 7/32" socket. The bottom one is easy. The top one is very challenging, but if you're persistent and try a variety of tools, you'll get it in far less time than it would take to remove the dash and all the HVAC hardware it would take to get to it (I say that but I haven't actually done it yet - I've found videos and read about others doing it). I'll give you an update when I get the part.
That would be great. I found one on eBay back in December and the guy wanted $62 for it. I hesitated and it sold. Now I can't find another one. If you find it let me know and I'm sure we can agree on a price, provided it's the right part. In the post above it says that there's a different part no. for bucket seats with a center console and it won't fit in my standard cab truck.
2002 Silverado 1500 Standard Cab I need to find the part number for this piece. I'm not sure what it's called but it's the cover that goes over the blower motor under the dash on the passenger side. It's the first thing that needs to be removed when replacing the cabin air filter. I've seen it called a "hush cover", "blower motor access cover", etc. The picture came from a part that had previously been sold on eBay. You can see part of a number on the cover but not the whole number. Google searches on the partial number have come up empty. Thanks.
I recently had the P0430 code. Because I'm at 191k miles and still on the original O2 sensors, I went ahead and changed them out. But, before I did, I found a very large exhaust leak where the cat Y-pipe bolts to the flange at the head of the tailpipe. The flange is between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. I replaced the gasket and the O2 sensors and reset the code. It's been 4 months and I've not seen that code again. Either the leak or bad sensors (or both) can set the code, although I've always been told that 99% of the time the cats are bad. The front bearings are part of a non-serviceable hub. The usual indicator that they are going bad is having the ABS activate at low speed just before you come to a stop. They usually don't squeak when bad, but rather make a grinding noise. You can remove the wheel, caliper and rotor, then the big nut in the middle. After that I think there's just 3 bolts attaching the hub. No impact driver needed. Remove the hub and grab the bearing. Move it around and look for any play. It should be tight and just spin. If it's bad you'll need to replace the hub assembly. You didn't say if the squeak is only during braking or not, or if it sounds like it's rotational. In the front, the likely culprit are the brake pads. If they're worn, the metal howler will make contact with the rotor and make all kinds of noise. Or, the pads are producing harmonics and need to have anti-squeak stuff applied to them to make it stop. There could be other causes but those are the most usual and most obvious. In the rear, worn shoes can expose the rivets causing them to make contact with the drum. Sometimes other components come loose and make contact with something they're not supposed to touch. Pull the drum and make a visual inspection.
I don't think you'll see the reading change as you move the distributor. I turn the motor off, move the distributor, start the motor, raise the throttle above 1000rpm and that's when I see the CMP offset get updated. What I'm reading suggests a little different procedure (like raising the engine above 1500rpm), but the main thing is that the engine needs to drop below 1000rpm (or shut off), then raised above 1000rpm (or 1500rpm, depending on what you read) to update. I'm not sure I ever really paid attention to my actual engine rpms when updating the cmp offset. I typically start the engine and snap the throttle up and watch the numbers update.
Try to set the CMP offset with the engine running at 1000-1200 rpm. You really need to get it set at zero (or dang close to it). You will experience hesitations at highway speeds and they will gradually worsen.
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