Did you set the cam retard offset to within +/- 2?
Yes, the cam retard offset is the data you want. It should be no more than +/- 2. Anything more will cause a hesitation, most often recognized when cruising on the freeway, but occasionally on acceleration from a stop as well. Make sure you read the data while the engine is a little over 1500rpm.
There's a pic but no video so can't hear anything. However, the A/C only has one moving part - the compressor. If it's making noise and blowing hot air, it's done. To fix it, there's a lot more to it than just replacing parts.
In regards to those gauges that come with the recharge kit, they don't really tell you anything except that you can see the pressure increase as you add (or not if there's a leak). The only way to check for a blockage without opening the system and visually inspecting the orifice tube is to attach a proper set of manifold gauges. After letting the engine sit for several hours, without starting it, a charged system will show static pressure that should be even between the high and low sides. If they are uneven, there may be a blockage. If the compressor runs after jumping the low pressure cutoff switch, it's likely undercharged and/or has a leak. A set of manifold gauges will tell you what you need to know. Now, depending on what the gauges say, what you do from there can go many directions.
Part of replacing a lower control arm is backing the tension off the the torsion bar on that side, and returning the tension when finished. Also, the end of the torsion bar is hexagonal and fits into a hexagonal slot in the lower control arm. The torsion bar needs to be properly indexed into this slot or there will be too much, or too little, tension when the adjustment bolt is returned to where it was before the repair began. The torsion bars on each side need to be adjusted equally. It is likely that the torsion arm was not properly indexed or adjusted following the repair, resulting in the repaired side riding higher or lower than the other. There is an adjustment bolt that meets the torsion arm key. Check the adjustment on the side that was not repaired. Turn the adjustment bolt on the opposite side to match the properly adjusted side. If they are matched, and one side is still higher than the other, the torsion bar is improperly indexed. There are videos on YouTube that show how to adjust torsion bars. Sometimes it is best explained in videos showing lower control arm replacement.
I also got a set of 2016 Silverado 18" rims and put LT275/65R18 tires on them and I have had 0 issues. You might get away with 285 width, but that's questionable. The guy at the tire shop told me the LT275/70R18 would not fit.
Did you set the CMP offset on the distributor? To be within spec it should be between +/- 2. A trouble code of P1345 might get stored if it is out of spec, although I've seen it as much as -14 and the code hadn't been set (but the engine hesitated and backfired as you described).
It's most likely the steering wheel position sensor (EVO sensor) on the steering column. I replaced mine at 60k miles and now I'm at 200k miles and I've had no further problems. That sudden movement in the steering wheel can be a bit unnerving.
Update: I got the new part and successfully installed it, although I was not able to get the top screw back in. Getting it out seemed to take forever, even after I manufactured a tool to make it easier. The old actuator had a cracked main gear. The bushing in the middle of that main gear, which attaches to the blend door, is made of metal. The bushing on the new part is made of plastic. But, the GM part was $65 and the one I got was $18, so there you go. I removed the blower motor and made sure the actuator operated the door properly, and that nothing was blocking it. And, for what its worth, this actuator operates the door that selects either outside air or recirculates the inside air.
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My truck just started making a loud clicking noise under the glove box. I tracked it to the actuator next to the blower. I can see the part number on it using a small mirror: 16167292. I ordered it from Amazon for $18. It has two mounting screws requiring a 7/32" socket. The bottom one is easy. The top one is very challenging, but if you're persistent and try a variety of tools, you'll get it in far less time than it would take to remove the dash and all the HVAC hardware it would take to get to it (I say that but I haven't actually done it yet - I've found videos and read about others doing it). I'll give you an update when I get the part.
That would be great. I found one on eBay back in December and the guy wanted $62 for it. I hesitated and it sold. Now I can't find another one. If you find it let me know and I'm sure we can agree on a price, provided it's the right part. In the post above it says that there's a different part no. for bucket seats with a center console and it won't fit in my standard cab truck.
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