oscyjack

Update to say the problem is solved. Went to an old school wizard, he did it all, no printout or receipt. $60 cash and shes never driven straighter. All he said was "toe was out". so, I can't tell you what the problem was. I can tell you a completely new front end, and someone who knows how to align a truck, fixed the issue

Weekend surgery is complete. Both sides are now completely done. The only original components on the front end are the LCA bolts, the lower strut bolts and the steering rack. I also found an additional steering angle sensor in the scan tool under the brake controller which I did not know was there. I ran all 3 SAS resets, and I have noted an improvement. Alignment tomorrow, will report back.

Tomorrow is surgery day #2 for the drivers side. Made an appointment at a local chevy dealer to do an alignment after. Me hopes they will do it better than firestone, we shall see! Ill report in on tues.

The rack has definitely been in the back of my mind. I sure do miss hydraulics sometimes lol. I have not checked those for play specifically as of yet, but I can and will do so on Sunday during the drivers side surgery and will report back. Do bear in mind, only one of those alignments was independent of a parts swap. But, I like where your heads at. And I am not at all afraid to fix what's broken, just need to find it first lol. Thanks again for your hopefully continued input. Can only bounce this around in your own head for so long lol

This is the most recent alignment in this post here. As well as a beauty shot to keep you interested in helping me lmao

First picture is my before/after UCA install on 10/1/23, second picture is after installing tie rods on 12/8/23, third picture was after i fell into a hole to china driving down a logging road on 1/30/24. The fourth pic was from this week, 2 days after install of the passenger side: Hub, spindle, end-links, LCA. I used all new GM hardware for each fastener and used by the book torque specs/procedures.

Thank you for chiming in! Really appreciate it. I'm hoping with our collective noggins, we might get somewhere. Factory wheels were 18's w/ 265/65r18 iirc. I surely do! I will post those here ASAP. I should actually have my last two or three. I will try to get them posted chronologically. I had the same thought regarding the pull, but aside from one remaining LCA to swap out this Sunday (admittedly I did make this post prematurely before I had both in), everything else looks 100% as it should to someone whos been wrenching on GMs since 2000 or so. My sneakiest suspicion is that the remaining side has play in the joint and/or hub, that really doesn't make itself an issue until under load. I live in MI where the roads are reallllllly realllllly shite. I had the frame on a rack after I bought it and it was square, as an aside. One thing I neglected to mention in my initial post was that I have also included new spindles/knuckles with the install. The passenger side LBJ was 100% stuck. BFH, heat, penetrant and a combo of the three made no headway. So the passenger side is currently basically all new within the last 8 months aside from the CV axle itself. The same will be true on the drivers side after this sunday. The alignment shop ...states....they saw no play anywhere. And without any extra added pejorative, it is firestone after all hehe.

Correct me if im wrong, but wouldnt that show in the thrust angle and likely reveal itself with an discrepancy between the appearance of both at resting state? My thrust angle is small and to my eye, the springs are lined up and torqued appropriately. I do have some progressive leafs to go in, I was hoping to get this alignment nonsense wrapped up first, but, if it were the springs maybe thatd be an unintentional fix haha

Thank you for the input, I have reset/relearned the SAS numerous times to no complete avail. Though it did make some amount of impact.

Hey all. If this is posted in the wrong place, apologies and mods if you wouldn't mind moving it to the right place. I could be really long winded here, or just kind of give the skinny. But I am absolutely desperate for help in getting my truck properly aligned and driving like it should. Even when my truck is within factory alignment specs, I seem to constantly either have a pull left or right depending on the road crown, or what I feel is too much steering wander, causing me to have to constantly correct to maintain a lane a freeway speeds. I bought this truck last august, bone stock with 40k on the clock. 2018 Z71 LT2 CCSB in good shape with no signs of paint/body/framework. The truck had a leftwards pull on the test drive, but I knew I would be building it so I was not overly concerned with that. Since then, I have replaced the following components: Tie rods replaced with PPE Forged tie rod assemblies LCAs replaced with Mevotech TTX arms UCAs replaced with Bilstein B8 UCAs (tubular arms with moog problem solver joints) Front struts replaced with Bilstein 6112 (extended sku 1.85"-2.7", set at the lowest 1.85" on both sides) Rear shocks replaced with Bilstein 5160's. Rear suspension is +1" over stock via +1" non-tapered block, installed with new u-bolts (2.25" overall) Sway bar links replaced with poly factory design Hubs replaced with Timkens Have tried 3 sets of tires, 2 sets of wheels. Current tires are LT(C) 285/70r17 Falken Wildpeak AT4w. Current wheels are Fuel Rebel 6, 17x9 @ -12offset. The problem was present with stock wheels, and stock wheels with 1" BORA spacers. Brakes have been replaced, and re-did the job 4 times now thinking maybe I had a pad/caliper hanging up at times. Parking brakes have been inspected and adjusted ABS bleed down procedure done numerous times 5x alignments, and I have my own bidirectional tool for the SAS reset/relearn if the shop doesn't do it. Have played with tire PSI's and f/r deltas, high pressures, low pressures, mixed front/rear. All bushings received their final torque at ride height with loaded suspension. Current alignment specs that are still troublesome: Camber L/R: 0.0/-0.2 Caster L/R: 2.7/2.8 Toe L/R: 0.03/0.05 Steer ahead: -0.01 Thrust angle: 0.03 I have indeed been using the same firestone location for the alignment. And that may be the problem entirely lol. But, based on the specs me-thinks something else might be afoot. Open to any and all suggestions! Other potentially pertinent information. When I bought the truck, I did a full maintenance routine. Every fluid is new and high quality. The truck is in excellent shape overall without any form of obvious damage. it is the 5.3 L83 with a 3.08 rear end (plan on 4:10's once I get the steering fixed), stock G80 that works as of now. Stock 6l80 that is serviced and works as it should as of now. I do have a slightly weepy passenger side rear axle seal, no contamination of the parking brake on that side. Driving characteristics - It feels like my front end and rear end are two different vehicles. The rear tracks well, the front does not. Someone save my bacon

You can't find a definitive answer because there are not yet any details about the shock available, they aren't in production, they don't have part numbers. The 5160 will outperform any standard used GM shock without a doubt, as does the already available 5100. You will be able to use either while gaining performance and sacrificing nothing

I'm in as well, though if it's more than 6 months I'll go with fox. Keep us posted...As an aside, any installed pics/videos would be neat to see if you're allowed by bilstein

I don't know, but the odds are, the 5160 will far surpass the stock shocks in every way, including load handling ability, so I wouldn't worry

When will you accept orders?

I did last week actually, and it's great. But the Fox should be equivalent as the 6112 will use the same spring. I can't stand my z71 suspension much longer. I may buy my bosses 2015 LTZ Duramax, which would solve this dilemma for me

I just don't think I can wait for the 6112, if the release is still set for march/april, then backorder issues. As MRT said, they only made a few Tundra's thus far. If I don't end up moving to a duramax, i'll be doing the fox 2.0. I don't do any wheeling other than hunting roads, the mountain road to my cabin and the beach, I really just want a small lift with enhanced ride characteristics, I think Fox will fit the bill.

I'd be curious to know what the specs are on the 6112, extended and collapsed length and such

I'll be doing the Fox 2.0 as well, with UCA's to follow later. Bilstein wait seems excessive in general, then again they sell more shocks than anyone. Bilsteins are great, but they are never the best of breed in each application. Their benefits lie in their lifetime warranties, and since they aren't rebuild-able they are marketed more towards mainstream buyers; as opposed to fox/king/icon etc... who are marketed to drivers who want the complexity, specialty associated with each brand. I would assume the performance of the Fox 2.0 system is right within line of the 6112, and most of us do not need the cooling capacity of a 2.5/2.65" diameter shock. The bolt on aspect of the Fox is what tops the cake for me

We were saying that the Fox 2.0 is better compared with the 6112, rather than the 5100. Unfortunately, you're the only one with experience on the 6112. If it's like the 5100 time frame , I don't want to have to wait for months on the backorder list, i'll likely get the fox 2.0 system instead. The 6112's i'm sure will be sweet, but I do wish they'd give you a bolt on package like Fox/king/icon/camburg

No, you misread. The Bilstein's both 5100 and 6112 will work with stock control arms. You would likely benefit some from getting new UCAs, but it is in no way necessary

If you raise, you'll always be better off with a new UCA. However, the Bilstein 5100 and 6112 will be designed to work perfectly with stock UCA's, as is the Fox 2.0 except for those with aluminum stock U/LCA's

14, 5.3, Z71, CC, 6.5 bed - steel arms

A new eibach spring as well, in addition to a larger diameter shock body. I think a fair comparison is the 6112 to fox 2.0...the Fox 2.5 and icons and kings are in a different league.

Not likely, it will be the same as the 5100 lift at 1.8-2". Toyotas can have more front end lift before UCAs become a requirement, the Silverado can't go much above 2" without it being necessary. In order for the Bilstein to perform as a standalone, it can't exceed the tolerances of the suspension geometry. I'm getting sick of waiting and may go for the fox 2.0 for steel arms

Sounds about right. The TRD pro uses TRD springs though, and I haven't bothered to look them up because, well, it's a toyota.