AZelkhunter

Neither the pedal adjust or engine brake can be swapped out. The pedal can't because it has two switches mounted to the PCB and the engine brake has a different connector/circuitry on the PCB. I think you could probably switch other switch positions by modifying the wire location in the harness and physically moving the switch button. Not 100% sure about that.

In the IECM (X61A junction block) referenced in bulletin 110e. I used pin 10 for ground and pin 11 for ign power. I used the smaller type female spade connectors with heat shrink and just plugged them directly onto the pins on the socket.

I connected the latching relays to ignition power and the other relays are wired directly to the battery. When I turn off the truck everything switches off. I connected the power and ground in the location where they show the connector for the upfitter addition.

Link didn't work for me, but you can run it through the same grommet as the rest of the loom. You don't have to remove the fuse box, just the cover. Pretty easy really. Nice find! I was looking for one that had multiple relays but mainly wanted to test the theory. Maybe I will switch to those later. Nice setup! I would just do those 2 as well

I have 3 latching relays installed in the little module that I made. I am currently running two relays from those, 1 to a light bar and the other to spot lights mounted in the grill. I have one spare latch for the next accessory I find. Haha. Thinking compressor or something along those lines. I used 400 grit sand paper, I am impatient though. You can use 800 grit and possibly save the white under, but it takes a lot longer than I want to spend on it. Maybe a 600 grit compromise would be decent. 400 works for sure. I wrapped the sand paper around the tip of a screw driver for better accuracy.

Nice! You definitely don't need the indicator light of they are going to be on all the time. Here are is a pic with my indicator lights on.

That's awesome! Nice find! I do have the adjustable pedals, which was one of the main reasons I didn't use the upfitter switch. You could easily use this switch to control two devices, which is pretty cool. Up could control one relay and down could control a second. My indicator lights do work, I just had to connect the output to my relay to the indicator light pins (since I am sending a low input to my relays). The pins are as follows: Pin 1 - Illumination + Pin 2 - Indicator lights + Pin 4 - Downhill Assist switch - Pin 5 - Lane Deprture Indicator - Pin 6 - Park Assist Indicator - Pin 7 - Cargo Light Indicator - Pin 8 - Lane Departure Switch - Pin 9 - Park Assist Switch - Pin 14 - Ground (this is the ground that is provided by each switch) Pin 15 - Power Seat -> Pin 16 - Power Seat <- Pin 17 - Traction Control Switch - Pin 18 - Cargo Light Switch -

I didn't add any wires to the brake controller connection, it is a complete harness. That's why I am thinking I can just find the stock relay location and utilize the OEM wiring, instead of taping into the wires at the plug. But if not then I will use wire taps and connect my switch trigger to the switch output and then my output to the relay will connect to the indicator ground. I have everything connected and it all works great! I will have to modify the schematic just to show that the low output from my latching relays is also run to the switch for the indicator lights, so I used two wires for each switch. I have a video that I will try to post later. Everything works just like it would from the factory. Here are a few pics of the wiring while I was installing. module mounted under steering wheel harness to power/ground and relays harness showing plug for module and wires to OEM connector switch installed

My wife cut them using her vinyl cutter. So I started installing everything yesterday and discovered that my truck has the 2nd harness for the exhaust brake port, even though the original switch has a blank port. I think this could be a good thing and maybe I can just add a fuse/relay and utilize existing hardware in the truck. At the very least I now have wires to tap into for that last switch. Anyone have schematics for the exhaust brake? I also took pictures of the main connector to see if we can find the connector and the correct pins.

They look very similar, hopefully they will work!

I just used normal spray paint. The coats could have been a little bit lighter but I wanted to make sure they were even. I sprayed about 3 coats then sanded it flat with 800 grit. They are slightly darker at night but it is barely noticeable. I didn't test the white vinyl, probably should have but I think it would have been to dark.

Here are some pictures of the modified buttons. I had to remove all the black and white, then respray the white because you couldn't see the icon in the daylight. I am pretty happy with the way they turned out, I think I can do better though.

Did you have to buy all 4 individually? I ordered 2 from my dealer (thinking I would get 4 in a package) and only got 2 single wires. I need to make sure they didn't rip me off. $9.54 ea is a bit steep for single wires!! I can find them $6.04 online with $12 shipping(ouch)

Ok thanks!

I see 5 wires in the package, is that correct? Awesome information, exactly what I needed.

I just posted this on colton_m's original post... I think that I have found a solution for using the OEM Momentary switches to control accessories such as light bars. I have decided to use the 23145202 switch as I have the adjustable pedals. This switch gives me 3 open slots to use. The issue with the switches is that being momentary they will not operate a standard relay. Upon searching I found these latching relay boards that come from China and cost $3 each. I picked up four of them to try, they are 12V boards that use a low input, so when the input is grounded, the relay activates and latches, until the input received another low signal. I assembled 3 of them in a case made a harness for them. I am modifying the switch to have the correct icon too.