Thank you for the info, I have an idea that the truck had this, again when I vigorously turned the wheel it dropped a really good amount and thought this could be the solution, and also other gauges were fluctuation that never did before so I figured the battery was soon to be in it’s way out. I’ve seen batteries test well and yet still didn’t do well on an amperage draw so figured the electric steering was causing an excess draw due to its binding
I did a good amount of research to see what I can find on this issue, and I came up with NOTHING for the 2016 1500. Now I did see a lot of steering issues for the 2015 trucks, which i'm ASSUMING doesn't apply to my 2016. So here we go. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 CCSB Z71 5.3 A6 with 64,000 miles. Truck has a 4.5" CST lift with 35" tires and has had this set up for around 40,XXX miles now with not a single issue. Also, I have off roaded the truck quite a bit, but not recently. I took a trip from VA to TN which I do very often, I put a lot of miles on this truck in a very short amount of time. Just prior to the trip I had the dealer to an oil change/tire rotation as usual (BTW i'm up to date on all services, I make sure to service everything on my trucks so i'm good about that). Truck did fine on the interstate, the next day I go to drive around town and the steering wheel seems to be binding in certain spots. Felt as though the Electric Power Steering (EPS) was kind of half a$$ working, or a shaft binding, etc...… Also on the trip after driving the truck for a few more days I notice the battery guage is lower than normal, and the engine coolant temperature gauge would fluctuate ever so slightly. One day in the driveway I cranked the wheel vigorously left and right to see if I could get it to fail or throw a code, and noticed the battery gauge dropped a significant amount, to the extend of the left tick mark which i'd say was around11/12 volts. I'm thinking at this point it might be the stock battery, I've put a lot of demand on it, a lot of off roading, maybe a bad cell is causing the EPS to not allow enough current. I get back to VA and today I go to autozone to have them check the charging system, battery is good, and alternator is good. Also, no issues starting or anything just the steering binding. I go to COSTCO and get a new battery, why not since it probably needed one anyway fairly soon and I could either fix the truck or rule it out as a culprit. I replaced the battery and it didn't fix the steering issue, now when I vigorously crank the wheel back and forth the voltage doesn't drop as far, so obviously truck needed a battery anyway. So my next thought of troubleshooting take me to under the dash where the steering column and intermediate shaft are. I notice that the shaft coming through the firewall has definite rust on it, so that caught my eye. Also, since about 6 months ago I had a noise come from the steering wheel when it's cold out but when warmer weather hits it goes away so I never thought much of it. I can absolutely hear that screeching noise from that rusted shaft. Also, I checked out the issues on the 2015 truck columns and found a service bulletin "steering column grind/pop/bind/shudder noise and/or feeling when turning 2014-2015. I found pictures that showed the lower column bearing assembly in an incorrect position (1), and/or the upper intermediate steering shaft to lower column shaft bolt and nut may be contacting the inhibitor/shifter cable bracket (2)." I checked my truck for these, didn't really seem to match as those two issues just didn't seem apparent. Although the black electrical component that goes around the shaft that has the plug going to it does make some noise when turning but I doubt that plastic is causing a major binding. **** ALSO, I noticed on this service bulletin it said steering racks for RPO code N38 and N37, and I check my RPO code in the glovebox shows N37. Not sure if I have the updated or replaced steering column or not, couldn't find the part number on it. ******* So, here's what i'm down to unless someone has an idea of what the issue could be. Tomorrow i'm scheduled for a trans flush and fluid exchange, going to have dealer at least spend an hour trying to see if they can find the issue, see if there are any open recalls, etc.... Then i'm also going to have them rotate the tires again and re torque the wheels to see if that might be an issue of worn out tires or improperly torqued wheels as I don't have a torque wrench at the moment. Then if that doesn't work take it to 4 wheels parts where I had the lift installed and get an alignment, I did hit some pretty good potholes along the trip.
I currently have a 2016 GMC Sierra CCSB 1500 Z71 5.3 w/ 6L90 transmission. It currently has a 4.5" CST lift kit with 35" tires, and yes I do off road the truck and go on some fairly difficult Jeep trails. So after this last trip off road I noticed a definite clunking/popping sound coming from the front end, I had noticed it before a couple months prior but it seemed to have gone away. I had the kit installed a 4 Wheel Parts in Virginia Beach, being that I purchased the warranty I took it to them to look into the issue. They called and told me the passenger side steering rack bushing is cracked/broken/separated (honestly cannot remember the exact term they used, but regardless it's out) and that GM doesn't allow for the passenger side to be replaced, but yet the driver side can. With that being said, that means that the entire steering rack requires replacement which is not covered under warranty (BTW I have 50,XXX miles on the truck). I cannot bring myself to comprehend a bushing that cannot be replaced, and I can't seem to find anything on the internet about this, which is a first!!!!!! I am going to the dealer tomorrow, I know the guy that runs the local dealer and he is going to run my vin into a "customer loyalty program" to see how much of the total cost the dealer would cover based on how much money I've paid the dealer in oil changes/fluid changes, maintenance, etc..... Can anyone provide me information on that passenger side bushing? Why is it not replaceable? Is it due to the location of it on the rack? Is it a pressed in bushing or somehow integrated into the rack making it not replaceable? Is there anyone that would suggest a better aftermarket rack that would be similar in price but more durable? Anyone know of some modification to where you can somehow get the old bushing out and replace it with a new? There has to be something. How can I justify in my own brain to replace a perfectly good steering rack (approximately $2,000.00) for a bad bushing?
I have 4 almost brand new open country r/t tires sized 285/65R18, they have approximately 5,000 miles on them. Purchased them through a local dealer here in Newport News, VA and paid $1,300.00 for them brand new. I have a GMC Sierra that I had a leveling kit on so I had purchased these tires, and they have been amazing. I lifted my truck and bought the same open country tires but 35's. so now I need to sell the 285's. Tires only are $950.00 plus shipping. Tires and wheels together I'd sell for $1,150.00 plus shipping, or best offer. Also I will sell rough country leveling kit as well if someone wants it
I have completed the modification of putting the SLT LED Headlights in my 2016 SLE Sierra that came standard with the HID's with Projectors. My truck has approximately 15,XXX miles on it, so the HID's are pretty close to new. No cracks, dings, dents, broken tabs, headlights are in great working condition. I will be adding pictures later on today when i get them out of the truck, but for now they are currently installed and i'm replacing them this evening. You all know what they look like, but when they are out of the truck i'll take good pics to show that there are no issues. I've looked on ebay, seems like the going rate is approximately $500.00 or so. SO that's what i'll start them at, $500.00 which i'll include shipping with that, just PM me.
Okay so I have searched this and can't seem to find an exact answer. I know a lot of people are converting the 2014/2015 headlamps with the 2016 LED's and getting a harness to convert. I had a 2016 SLT with the LED's and they were awesome, long story buy I had a GM Buyback on that trucks, so I bought a SLE that I liked. To convert a 2016 SLE with HID's to the LED headlamps what needs to happen? you would think that the harness would be built into the headlamp and it's just a plug and play but I presume that's incorrect. Anyone have any info on this? My old truck is sitting at the Dealer where I conducted the buyback, and it's being "donated" to a local autoshop or something, and I want to know if I can just plug the LED's in and basically swap headlamps with the dealer. (I am on great terms with this dealer now, and would be willing to BUY the headlamps from the dealer)
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