alvocado

There is a metal tab that makes contact with the battery and it can get bent causing intermittent or no response from the fob. I'd rule that out first. I had the issue after swapping the board over to a new key fob case.

Here's a link to a very inexpensive relearn tool: GM Relearn Tool I've been tempted to try it for $9.

I stand corrected. I missed the farthest back bolt and the head is in fact gone. That explains the leak and the noise. Looks like I'm pulling the exhaust manifold this weekend. For those who've dealt with this, is there any risk the manifold is warped or should it be fine to reuse and simply replace all the bolts and gasket?

No broken bolts. I had that on a previous 6.0l and had to remove the head to get the bolt out. It was the bolt closest to the firewall, snapped off just below the head surface and I couldn’t get anything on it.

I'm getting a louder than normal exhaust sound and it seems to be forward in location. I sprayed some soapy water on the exhaust manifold and did a cold start. Soap bubbled where the manifold meets the head at the rear most location on the driver's side and stopped when the manifold heated up (within about 30 secs.) Is it normal for a small amount of exhaust gas to pass the manifold gasket at startup when cold or is the soap bubble a sign that the gasket is allowing exhaust gas to pass once the manifold heats up? With a metal gasket, I assume there is some expansion when hot that would help seal the connection. I'm trying to determine if this is the issue or if the factory exhaust has a leak elsewhere (200k miles on it.)

Oil and all drivetrain fluids were changed last week/1000 miles ago. No codes. I took the fuel trim readings while driving around the block so low speed only.

I’m trying to diagnose what’s causing a noticeable drop in gas mileage and have a question regarding some scan data related to assessing the fuel injectors. Mileage on two recent 500 miles trips was down 3-4 mpg. 2011 Yukon 5.3, 200k miles. Plugs and wires have 50k on them, air filter is clean, O2 sensors have been replaced. Fuel pump was replaced in September. LT FTRM1 is reading -5.5% and LT FTRM2 is -6.3%, both indicating rich running condition. ST FTRM bounces as from approximately-15 to +15%. Fuel pressure reads 44 psi on both sides. Any advice on interpreting the data and confirming if the injectors are an issue would be appreciated.

There's enough clearance to get the bottle level and pressure squeeze most of the fluid into the diff by hand. I could feel the fluid level just below the fill hole with my finger so it filled up too quickly.

One additional note: I drained the differential with the truck on a pair of jack stands and filled with it flat on the ground. I didn't think that would result in fluid remaining in the housing but it's the only explanation I can think of.

2011 GMC Yukon SLT 4wd: I changed all of my drivetrain fluids today and could only get about 4/5 qt of 80w90 back into the front diff. The truck was on the ground and level when filling and I expected at least a qt. before it started running back out of the fill hole. I changed it 50k miles ago and don't recall having an issue underfilling. Any reason why the fill capacity would be so little?

I appreciate the passion for the GM OE brake parts. I run a mix of OE and non-OE on other cars depending on the intended performance. I get 30-50k miles on German pads in a sedan but the compound is much softer and has incredible bite. I switched to drilled and slotted rotors because I warped two sets of front rotors on mountain drives after they overheated. The heat dissipation on traditional discs was not adequate. I have no doubt that everyone is getting 100k+ miles on OE pads and I'm sure they are great for daily driving. That doesn't necessarily mean they are great for towing or HD use. There are always trade offs. I've had meaningfully improved braking performance with the z36 setup and in my opinion, it has been worth the change with the sacrifice of pad life. I just didn't expect pad life equivalent to German non-ceramic pads. I was looking for input from others who are running the z36 pads to compare longevity and confirm if there's an issue with the wear tabs which should have given me a heads up on the pad thickness. Debating brake part choices is like debating oil brands and what type of woman you prefer - everyone is right.

I’ve been running Powerstop z36 rotors and pads and am getting very short lifespan with the front pads. The first set went 39k miles and the second set (no rotor change) lasted 30k. Are others seeing similar pad life? Also, I did not expect a wear issue so soon until hearing a very faint squeak today only to discover both rotors severely scored. There was no noise this weekend and after a short drive today, the rotors were toast. I would have expected at least some noise from a wear tab but no warning until a faint noise developed. I’ll inspect them this week when new parts arrive but curious if others have experienced similar performance and lack of low pad thickness warning.

Confirmed: cracked plastic on the fuel pump assembly. Replaced the entire assembly and it's resolved.

The condition is consistently occurring on cold start and there is a noticeable gas smell inside and outside the truck. I think this indicates a fuel pressure loss while sitting since it starts fine when warm. There is no sign of fuel leaking.

2011 GMC Yukon 5.3l, 194k miles. Recently started exhibiting long crank time and slow to start. The engine is cranking indicating the starter is working and the battery is charged. If I back off the key then try again, the engine starts and runs fine. I did notice that the starter continued to crank without rotating the key past ON and I had to return the key to off for it to stop. it’s either air, fuel or spark. I don’t have a fuel guage to check pressure at the rail but will pick one up if that’s an appropriate troubleshooting step. Does this sound like a fuel pump that is going out based on the mileage? I’m not aware of a fuel filter on this gen Yukon. Any advice on troubleshooting sequence would be appreciated.

2011 GMC Yukon: I noticed water dripping out of my driver's side rear passenger door this afternoon and when I opened the door, I could hear a lot of water swishing around in the door cavity. I popped the lower rubber seal off and water jetted out of the fastener holes. There had to be a good gallon of water trapped. This is the first time I've noticed this so two questions: 1) where is the likely point where water is entering the door cavity? I don't see any sign of water inside the truck and the seals around the window show no issues. 2) there are holes on each lower corner that look like weep holes but no water exited those holes. Are they designed as weep holes? if so, I'll get some compressed air to see if I can open them up. There's no sign of any corrosion on the door bottom.

https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Headliner-Clip-GM-9617200-p/a11118.htm

The dash switches commonly fail and you could confirm this with a scan tool. Mine triggered a Service 4wd error. A GM replacement was less than $25 if I recall.

The left mount was replaced 18 mos ago. When it failed, it was visibly leaking fluid and there was a hard clunk when coming to a stop as the engine shifted.

The u-joints checked out OK with the driveshaft out of the vehicle. I can feel the 4wd and auto 4wd engage and disengage so I'm ruling out a bad drive selector. I don't get any pulsing through the seat, it's all steering wheel which would indicate something up front. While it's most noticeable on throttle, it's still present after letting off the gas. Aside from a visual inspection of the boots, what's the correct way to check the CV axle?

I'm looking for help diagnosing a new issue. 2011 Yukon, 185k miles, in excellent mechanical condition. While doing about 2000 miles over the holidays, I noticed a harmonic pulsation with throttle application. It's most noticeable at highway speeds but also evident at low speed around town. The pulsing stops when I lift off the gas. The truck is in 2WD so no power should be going through the front diff although I ran it in both auto and 4hi during the storms around the holidays when I first noticed the pulsing. I don't get any change in noise when turning which rules out a wheel bearing but I wouldn't suspect that based on the condition only presenting under throttle. My only thought is a potential driveshaft u-joint since they are factory original. In the past, a failing u-joint would cause the occasional drag or hanging up of the drive shaft while driving but I haven't experienced that. Diff, transfer case and tranny fluids have been changed every 50k miles. Any thoughts are appreciated.

I pulled the rotors and adjusted the shoes in a bit using the brake shoe caliper to set both sides equally. The pedal now stops at the half way point and holds tightly. I don't think the factory procedure is accurate because setting to .026 in doesn't allow for any travel on the pedal. I recommend others leave at least 1/6" of inch gap vs. the inside rotor diameter to avoid pulling the brakes for a second adjustment.

I changed out the factory rear brakes for a Powerstop kit today and adjusted the parking brake shoes per the factory manual using a Gearwrench brake resetting guage. The rotors cleared with no dragging during reassembly. After reassembly, the parking brake pedal is very tight and I barely get 1-2 clicks before it's set. The parking brake holds but I'm concerned with the lack of pedal travel. The repair procedure calls for adjusting the shoes then adjust cable tension. I'm familiar with the cable tension adjuster on the lower frame rail but the factory procedure references a self adjuster lock-out pin which must be removed with no picture showing location. Any help is appreciated.

Following up, the bushing replacement took about 30 minutes. I used some Syl-glyde to lube the outside of the new part which made installation very easy. The bushing sleeve bolts had blue thread locker on them from the factory so I applied thread locker before reinstalling. My factory bushing showed no signs of wear and was not noticeably dried out so I did another suspension check and found the passenger side sway bar link is missing the lower nut off the shaft that extends into the lower control arm. That is the culprit and I didn't catch the missing nut when I inspected earlier.

Thanks for posting the bulletin. This is obviously a common failure if GM issued a bulletin and the repair looks much easier than pressing out the driver's side bushings. I'll give this a try and report back. Part arrives tomorrow.