TexasGopher

I have a 2013 GMC and neither power port is working. The console port quit working after the drivers air bag was replaced after a fender bender. The dash port quit working after an air compressor locked up while in use. I have replaced one dash block fuse and one engine bay fuse but still no power on either port. Is there anything else to look at before we start looking at wiring issues?

The shop that did the original work has apparently closed. The Flowmaster he put on it was just too fricken loud. I had another shop put a Borla muffler on and it sounds much better. They told me the first shop cut out the third cat when they did their work. did that third cat have an O2 sensor and could that be causing the check engine light? I cleared the code after having the new muffler installed and drove it almost 300 highway miles but it came back on about 10 miles after a fill up. At this point I'm just trying to get some ideas of what is going on before I put it in the shop. Looks like another case of beware of the fly by night shop.

I wasn't looking for a performance gain, just a change in exhaust sound. I went a little overboard and now this.

I have a 2013 GMC with 150K on it and recently installed a one in two out muffler. After a couple of hundred miles it's now throwing P0172 and P0175 codes, rich bank one and two. Is this an O2 sensor problem or is there something else going on? I'm not happy with the work the shop did but there isn't much I can do about that now. They put some very short mufflers on it and it was way too loud. Their solution was to put a resonator between the cat and the muffler. It's still too loud for my taste but that is between me and the shop. Is there a problem with the installation or did it bork the O2 sensor or is there another issue here. It wasn't throwing code before this was done.

Where is it? I had a little fender bender that popped the drivers air bag and locked down both seat belts. There was a dash cam plugged into the bottom console cubby hole. It no longer works. I haven't found any wiring problems yet so I'm guessing the fuse. Where is it?

The drivers air bag popped and it locked up both sets of seatbelts. I'll know next week for sure but there may be some suspension damage also.

I had an accident in my 2013 GMC Texas edition with 144k on it and while the damage doesn't appear to be too bad it did pop the drivers side air bag. I have noticed no fluid leaks anywhere but it was pulling to the right a bit when I drove it off. The accident happened on 12-9 and 12-30 is the soonest i can get it in a shop for an estimate. every shop within 50 miles if booked with some as far out a March.

I had an accident in my 2013 GMC Texas edition with 144k on it and while the damage doesn't appear to be too bad it did pop the drivers side air bag. I have noticed no fluid leaks anywhere but it was pulling to the right a bit when I drove it off. The accident happened on 12-9 and 12-30 is the soonest i can get it in a shop for an estimate. every shop within 50 miles if booked with some as far out a March. IMG_0018 (1).HEIC

shakenfake No body wanted to sell one wheel and wanted $600 for the set. A bit excessive. I had three different salvage yard check their net, no deal. You must have exceptional Googlefu.

Just a heads up for anyone looking for replacement wheels for a 2013 Texas Edition. These wheels seem to be unobtanium these days. I bent one of mine in some road construction and had a hell of a time finding a replacement. I checked every salvage year with a 100 mile radius of Dallas\Ft. Worth and came up blank. Same with Ebay/Amazon/FB Marketplace. After some extensive Googling I found an OEM style wheel at of all places, Wal Mart! It was $285 with free shipping and almost $500 with shipping OEM. According to several places that repair wheels the OEMs are alloy with a plastic coating. If they heat the wheel to true it, it melts the plastic coating. None would touch it. It amazes me that as many of these Texas Edition trucks I see on the road there are none of these wheels to be found used.

The factory headlights are almost sandblasted and extremely rough to the touch. I doubt a restoration kit would do much for them. Other than OEM, what is a good replacement unit for a 2013. I'm open to getting away from the OEM style provided it's not too radical. Not willing to go through the expense of going HID unless it will be plug and play. The truck is white so I'm not into the blackout look. What are you running and what does it look like? Thanks

This may be my way out here. The wife's SC430 gets the prime spot in the garage.

I have a 2013 Sierra and the dash is starting to crack near the corner on the drivers side and near both defroster vents. Is this a common problem and what is the easiest solution. I'm having flashbacks to a 2001 Ram that the dash was more dried Gorilla glue than plastic.