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  1. The black panel in front of the sound deadening is a Blown PVC sheet that I ordered off ebay. It came 24"x48" but I ripped it down to 13"x48" on a table saw. I plan to use double sided 3M VHB tape on the high parts of the back wall and i'm also going to make some brackets out of an HDPE sheet i ordered. If your taping directly to the wall you'd probably be fine but because so much noise comes through I sound deadened the rear wall and the tape is just to provide some attachment, since its relying on the butyl glue from the deadener. The plastic brackets I cut down to 2" strips that I'll heat with a torch and bend, then drill to grab a seat belt bracket. On the top i'm going to put some nutserts into a portion of the back wall that has a void behind it. I've read of people using 3M 5200 caulk to attach the board, but I would stick with the VHB tape and if you want to make brackets go for it. I don't know that you need the brackets but it makes me feel better. I bought a stinger kit for the cables since their cable is good and very flexible. From the battery it's 6'wide, 3' down to the floor, 7' back to the amp along the drivers side and about a 1' to get to the distribution block i'm using. That's for a double cab. if your in a crew you might need a little more. I came up with a need for roughly 15' and the cable in the kit is 18'. I'm only using a 4ga wire so I plan to run it up the drivers side wire channel under the plastics going through the firewall at the main harness grommet, which is a pain only because you have to remove the interior fuse block which is located in a really dumb spot. It's only 3 bolts, but it's annoying. I couldn't find anywhere else to come in that didn't require drilling a hole.
  2. Started building my behind the seat amp rack and sound deadening the rear panel and floor. This has turned into quite the project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I used to use Wolfgang care care but switched to g techniq. I love the g tech stuff and the ceramic coating is awesome. If your nervous about applying it someone else can do it but it’s much cheaper to do it yourself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I did the diode dynamics switchback boards on my headlights. I had some issues with the headlights where water was getting in from my previous retrofit to the headlamps. Pulled everything apart and it was just as much of a pain in the ass as you’d think it would be. Don’t be afraid to heat those headlights up. If they’re cool to the touch it’s not hot enough to break the permaseal bond. I did 270 degrees for 10 mins repeatedly. If you want to do a longer time lower the temp considerably
  5. Did you use a conversion harness?
  6. I would not buy the junk from headlight experts posted above. I would buy the diode dynamics bulbs. Putting led's into projector housings is generally a bad idea because most LEDs are not designed for that type of housing, they're often cheap sales gimmicky products that won't give you a good result. It doesn't matter how bright the light is if you are spraying it everywhere but the road. And Led's are okay, but I prefer a good HID retrofit to led light, maybe in the future LED's will catch up
  7. Ahh ok you have the crew cab. I have a double cab, so the twins under the rear seat weren't an attractive option for me because they don't have the cutout for an amp and they were about twice the price. I think the one tw1 will be plenty loud for me under the console, i'm more interested in sound quality than volume. I'm jealous that the box you bought comes with tw3's though, they're supposed to be really loud and good sound quality. The one for the console only has the air volume for a tw1. Well, I haven't installed it yet because they aren't shipping until mid may. I am prepared to cut it if necessary it didn't seem to be that big of an issue. It's a single din unit, so it's possible that it could be installed without cutting by adjusting the location, i'd have to look once I get the metra panel and see where the two dins fall. I intend to keep the truck until it dies so I'm not worried about ever going back to stock, have too much invested in it to get a new one. They do have an alternative 9" option where the screen installs into a double din and the "computer" is on a cord so you could probably tuck that into the void. They call it a "modular" unit.
  8. That 2000 price tag was too much for me on the i209. I was able to put a package together with Sonic Electronix that brought the 8600 down to 1000. The fact that they can be adjusted in every direction at install, I figure i'll be able to center it up to look as factory as possible. The i209 is a nice setup though, its essentially the same thing just recessed a little more. The only thing I hate is the clear acrylic buttons Alpine insists on using, but just personal preference. I also decided to order a Audiocontrol ACM-2.300 just to push the rear coaxials and I'll bridge the JL rd900/5 just to run the 3 ways up front. I wasn't thinking about the power split as closely as I should have when picking out the amp. Which stealthbox did you get?
  9. That's a bummer, the reviews on these are supposed to be really good. I just ordered one hopefully they paid a little more attention to the construction in this one. To answer the original question, it depends what you want. 200-500 isn't alot of cash in the stereo upgrade world. I personally think the bose isn't really all that great, it's a mass produced oem system. If you want good sound you should consider a Line output converter LOC, an amp, speakers and if you want bass you'll need to factor all of that in. I'm still waiting on my head unit but I'm doing a full sound quality upgrade on my truck using Focal speakers, JL amp, stealthbox and a new 10" pioneer head unit. The price on that build is just over 4k for parts so far.
  10. I have heard that they are extremely laggy and lack support. And, in my honest opinion, are ugly as f*ck. I posted some info on new headunits releasing this summer on here, I went with the pioneer one and will likely put up a thread on how everything turned out when I'm done.
  11. Looks good. I'll be doing my system once everything gets here. Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX JL audio RD900/5 Amp Focal Flax Evo 3-Way up front Focal Flax Evo Coaxial in the rear JL Audio Console Stealthbox Full Roadkill / Soundskins dampening / Speaker surrounds Decided to do a wireless charger in the center console while I'm working on it and debating katzkins leather seats, the oem leather covers are pretty terrible and have already torn on the drivers side.
  12. Well that would depend heavily on your preferences, but for me on a non-bose setup aiming towards the pioneer ..it's the following. The screen is significantly better in terms of clarity and the hardware itself is better giving you more options and snappier menus. It has pre-outs which eliminates the need for getting a loc when running to an upgrades systems. Instant updates, so you'll always have the newest AA/Carplay, the day it comes out. AA/Carplay are wireless or you can plug them in. - Hooking up back seat screens would be much easier if that's important to you Stock headunit has maybe 10/15 watts of power, this is probably closer to 20w RMS +/- . Has amazon alexa if your into that sort of thing Should sound better out of the box than the stock unit Mainly for me it comes down to the price of upgrading everything to a OEM kinda crappy unit to having something that live updates, eases future updates and has google maps, which is better than any navigation system.
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