You will need 2 separate devices to fix tire size and turn off DOD without a tune. Hypertech Speedomoter calibrator for tire size and a Range AFM Disabler for the DOD. This would be the only way to get both things you want without tuning the truck.
GM isn’t going to replace or repair anything engine related if they detect a tune. It doesn’t void your complete warranty, but you would be hard pressed to find a dealer to do engine warranty work.
Easiest way to get the trans shift points fixed, and avoid any warranty issue would be to get a Speedomoter calibrator from Hypertech or something similar. If you get a device that "tunes" the trucks engine, you can kiss any sort of engine warranty good bye. Your trans CAN be tuned, it just requires that you send your TCM into HP Tuners to be unlocked for $200, then you need to pay a tuner to tune the engine and trans. FYI it costs $200 in HP Tuners credits to tune the engine and another $200 to tune the trans. Then you still have to pay the tuner for their services, it's an expensive endeavor, I was quoted $1100 in total. If you just perform a engine tune through HP Tuners, EFI Live, or Diablo, they will all be able to adjust you tire height to fix you speedometer without having to mess with the trans.
No one makes a spool for the 9.5" 12 bolt. The only direct bolt in posi other than the G80 is the Yukon Duragrip. The Trutrac is a 14 bolt part that can be retrofitted to work in a 12 bolt with spacers and I believe you need a new diff cover.
Be prepared to drop some cash on a cam kit for the truck, it's not as easy as it used to be. I'd recommend Texas Speed for your cam needs, they have L83 specific cams designed for these motors. You'll need a cam, valve springs, pushrods, lifters and trays, vvt limiter, crank bolt, and head gaskets to complete a cam swap. You're looking at a little over $1k in parts only, and you'll have to pull the motor to install the cam due to the oil pickup tube bolt location. Anyways I would look into Speed Engineering long tubes and a custom flex fuel tune to start with before digging into the Gev V cam world. Good luck man.
On the passenger side while in reverse, we had some light rubbing on the little rear corner plastic. I just pulled it off and trimmed it down where it was rubbing, and its all good now. It's the perfect stance IMO. A huge plus is that before the spacers, the 295 tires were rubbing on the sway bar at full lock in both directions. The Bora spacers completely took care of that, and now 0 rubbing issues.
Worked on my dads truck this weekend, here it is completed: 2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 (Cast Steel control arms) 2” Rough Country leveling kit 2” Lift block and U bolts out back 295/55r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Factory Snowflake wheels Bora 1.25” spacers all around I need to clean it up and get better pictures.
The AFM 5.3 leaves a lot to be desired compared to a aftermarket cam. Have you ever driven one of these trucks with a cam, tune, or long tube headers? These LT1 based engines can have huge gains with these mods, but you won’t get the huge gains with AFM lifters. The average after market cam for these engines is 600ish lift, they do that because that’s how you make big boy power. And no I’m not very old, but I do understand how to make power on the LS/LT power plants, and keeping AFM lifters isn’t how you do it
Re-gearing is a instant seat of pants upgrade. On my 07 5.3 I swapped from 3.73 to 4.56, and it was awesome. I'm in the middle of collecting parts to gear swap my truck from 3.23 to 3.73 due to my 34" tires.
Huh? The lifter collapses under load and thus fails. Explain to me what the root cause is. The fact is that the only reason to swap in a cam is for more power, AFM cams have really low lift and don't make power.
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