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About pewterliftedz

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  • Birthday 05/08/1987

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  1. Truck looks great, I'm also looking at getting a LTZ. Has anyone found the part number for just shocks and struts yet? I don't want to mess with my CVs for such a mild lift, I just want to install the front shock for the 2" lift, similar to adding 5100s to previous year models
  2. On one of the reviews I watched the engineer stated that, there is no high idle switch or exhaust brake switch on the 3.0L Dmax.
  3. My wheels were actually stolen off my truck, so I went aftermarket. But I can confirm that 1.25" spacers do fit on factory snowflake wheels, that's the setup that I put on my dads 16' Silverado.
  4. Both are the smaller 5' bed, I know what the specs say, but I went to a dealer with a measuring tape. At the bed rails with the tailgate closed, they measure exactly the same. The inner bed of the new trucks are deeper and wider, but the bed rails were equal when I checked.
  5. Go measure the bed size with the tailgate closed, my 17 Sierra CCSB had the exact same measurements as a 20 Silverado CCSB. I haven't tried to install yet since I haven't found the deal I want, but my pla is to transfer my bakflip.
  6. Even more actually, HP tuners will allow you to install a flex fuel sensor and run e85 through your 6.2, if you want to.
  7. 17 and 18 8 speed transmissions can be tuned with HP tuners, Blackbear cannot tune them since they use EFI Live. If you want your trans tuned you will have to have your TCM unlocked (costs $200 for the service), and pay $200 for tuning credits.
  8. you're posting on the 1500 side of the forum, post on the heavy duty group
  9. The "correct" way to do it would be to leave the Bilstein shocks at factory height and add the spacer on top. This combo netted me about a 3" lift, I was never able to get 3.5" from the kit. The problem I have with the spacer lift is that at full droop, my CV axles angles were pretty ugly, and they concerned me. That is the reason I'm running my current setup with Eibach springs and Bilstein struts, this setup doesn't over extend the suspension at droop. The factory springs are very stiff, I took the coil overs off at the house, and took them to a local shop where he charged me $20 per coilover to install the new 5100 shocks. Made my life a ton easier. With that many miles I'd order new hardware and upper strut hats, I only had 30k miles on mine at the time.
  10. The 5100 rear shocks are actually 1" longer than the factory shocks, so I wouldn't run them without the rear block. Unless you add shock extensions like these http://mcgaughys.com/products/rear-shock-extenders-34044
  11. Your current kit is "level lift", it's basically a extra tall leveling kit with a diff drop and control arms. The point of the control arms is to correct ball joint angles. The Zone kit is designed to be used with factory control arms, the new spindle will correct ball joint angles, so no need for the Tuff Country ones.
  12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Hubcentric-12mm-1-2-Wheel-Spacers-6x5-5-6X139-7-14X1-5-78-1mm-Bore/201959860276?hash=item2f05bee834:g:MBMAAOSwkwdbrULk:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!77095!US!-1 I ran a hubcentric spacer similar to this on my truck to stop some rubbing when I had 305s
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