SmokChsr

Check the fluid level in the transfer case. It can make a clicking sound when dry, and unfortunately has a tendency to spring leaks.

Don't forget the silly things, make sure the transmission knows it is in park, also try starting in neutral. There are also anti theft circuits that may cause this, be sure to lock and unlock with the fob.

Actually those pressures, and the fact that it's freezing over would be an indication that it's low on Freon, or the line filter is clogged. But mostly very low on gas.

In 4 hi it is quiet as well.

So far just driving in 2 Hi. I'll try out 4Hi and see how that does at street speed. I normally only use 4WD when I'm off road, which I haven't needed to be for a while. But the sound I was hearing previously (thinking when it was going low) while in 2 Hi, has not returned.

No it's nice and quiet. I think it did make noise as it was going dry, but got quiet once dry.

Basic info back in February, I noticed some drive train groaning while driving. I checked Transmission, transfer case, and rear diff, all were good. The noise faded away and I kinda forgot about it. Then this weekend I had a really whiny power steering pump that I replaced, while underneath the front with the skid plate off I decided to check the front diff, dry as a bone. I refilled it. So it all seems to be working, I have had and do have 4WD (seldom used). So my question is does anyone know how much and what sort of damage running the front diff dry would cause. For the most part 4WD is only engaged when off road, and I haven't done much of that lately, but when activated it does cause tightness when turning sharp, indicating that it is actually operating.

There are normally 3 spots where it will wear through. Despite all the laughs, yes JB weld (I think it was called water weld) it's a white epoxy putty, works quite well at buying many months of time. (got one I puttied a year ago and it's still doing fine). The first time this happened to me I got the Jasper rebuild, unfortunately it didn't last as long as the original before it rubbed through. At least in the one I got they put a new plastic rub protector on 2 out of 4 of the pump splines. The plastic protectors came right through the case at the two locations where they put the protectors. Hopefully Jasper is doing better now, but no I wasn't a happy customer. Since then I've purchased the the replacement rear half and replace it on my 06 Tahoe that had the Jasper rebuild. My 05 tahoe still had the JB weld in place waiting until it's cool again so i can replace it's back half. Of course the key is making sure you get the leak stopped early and making sure the transfer case is kept full of fluid to prevent damage. The cost involved was around $3K for the Jasper installed, vs around $250 for the new rear casing, and 6 hrs labor replacing the case. Note: when I did the JB weld I cleaned the area involved very well, and used a dremmal tool with a small round stone to get down to bare metal, and made sure it was well de-greased before applying the JB weld.

I'm sure others will see this sooner or later.. But it wasn't long before the Engine Oil life will only reset to 0%. Yes it does indicate that it is doing the reset. In my way of thinking as a Electronics person, I'm thinking that GM is actually using a super cap, or something similar and discharging it at a controlled rate to give the "Oil Life" and that that device has failed. Now of course the question would then be were is the engine oil life number generated. Most likely in the ECM, but could be the BCM, or someplace else. Seems no one knows where this comes from.

Battery disconnect made no difference. Now it's down to 50% reset level.

I'll try the battery disconnect procedure, but I don't think that will effect this problem. Yes, I'm doing the peddle pump method. and it worked, to some extent, it went from 0% to 52%. So it took the command, just didn't fully reset. However off base this may be, and this is just a thought on my part with no basis on service information or anything else of the sort. I sort of thinking that it may be indicating a looming problem in the ECM such as an CMOS battery that is going down, and the reset is maxing out at the battery voltage. Of course I don't even know if it has a CMOS battery in the ECM. But that's the thought that popped into my head. It's not unlike GM to use one indicator to indicate more than one thing.

I've tried searching for this, but came up empty so far. So I'm hoping someone may have seen or heard of this one. For years my 06 Tahoe Z71 4WD 5.3, would properly reset the oil life back to 100%. Now for the last 2 oil changes it has decided that it doesn't want to. On the previous reset attempt it would only reset to 82%. On the most recent Oil Change it only reset to 52%. This isn't really a big problem just quite odd. I did note that when it only reset to 82% that it still took the same 10K or so miles to get down to 0%. Of course when it didn't fully reset the first time I reset it several times all going to only 82%. Now that it's only resetting to 52% I'll have to see how it does.