So I'm circling back around on this project... A friend gave a set of 1-3" front keys and adjusted shock mounts. I compared the new shock mounts and they look the same. Before I take the keys out I'm curious... If I have 2" lift blocks in the back, can the stock keys be turned up far enough to level the truck? The current keys are turned up to max torsion/height... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also would be curious about add a leaf vs shackle kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/272208006552 Shackles would be easier but leafs would help me carry a load better. I do tow 7-10k with this truck pretty regular which is why I want to get off the lift blocks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Typical questions I'm sure but... I have 160k miles on my 2002. Going to do bushings, ball joints, and do a proper 2" lift removing the blocks the PO put in. He turned the keys all the way up and put blocks in the back. [emoji849] I'm thinking tuff country 2" lift with shock relocation mounts in front, add a leaf in the back (removing blocks), and new keys in the front. Questions: 1. If I am doing ball joints and bushings do I need to install the offset ones for extra castor/camber for just 2" lift? Or will stock MOOG replacements work? 2. SX8000 tuff country shocks any opinions? I need new ones anyhow... they are $175 for all 4. I can get KYB's gr2's for $90 after rebate... Also I know some like the Rancho's etc... 3.) it looks like I can get a set of springs and keys cheaper off eBay and already have the tools needed... any benefit to purchasing from a lift country for just a small 2" lift? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the help guys. I got motor mounts, transmission fluid, all AC parts, plugs, wires, transmission cooler line ends, etc all done! Finally! OI was happy in the end when the shop told me there were no AC leaks and it charged up just fine. They said that all would have cost me over $2k if they did all the work and only cost me $670! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where the heck is my orifice tube??? Can someone tell me or show me in words? I have my old drier/accumulator and pump pulled. Ready to re-install new pump and drier, but I need to replace the orifice tube as well for warranty but can't locate it!?!?! Help me!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
5.) if I replace the blocks with leafs in the rear... Do I need to replace the longer U-bolts with stock length? Can I run a die down the u-bolt in order to tighten them down and cut the excess off?
hey guys, I've asked a few questions on here before and have done plenty of reading and lurking for most of my answers so far... Truck is a 2002 GMC 2500hd 6.0L 4L80E 160K miles. About to do motor mounts, ac compressor, accumulator, orifice, lower transmission oil line, and the stuff below... Bought the truck with lift blocks installed in the rear with the keys turned all the way up. PO had 20's on it but I sold those and put stock 16's on with 265/75R16's. I am commuting a couple days a week and doing weekend towing around 8-10K maybe 12k if i barrow the neighbors trailer to get gravel, rock, or dirt. I want to keep a little lift for occasional off road work. 1. Replacement keys and shock mounts... does it matter where they come from? $40 seems plenty reasonable and it looks like I can get leafs with a tool that will do keys and leafs. was also looking at $325 for a tuff country set up with sx8000 shocks, keys, and leafs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tuff-Country-12924KN-Suspension-Lift-Kit-2001-10-GM-Silverado-Sierra-2500HD-4wd-/401298876123?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 2.) blocks vs leafs: knowing that I tow and commute is the ride quality better with leafs over blocks? Is there a specific reason not to use blocks over leafs when towing? pros/cons? 3.) shocks: I dont think mine are ready for replacement yet but how are the SX8000 compared to the Bilstein 5100's I see most guys like? 4.) lower A-arm rubber bumpers: Mine are about to fall off and can't seem to find the replacement part number. These are the rubber bumpers that are frame mounted right behind the lower shock mount.d
What kind of power are we talking about on a Cam and converter? Keep in mind this is an Iowa truck and I can get by with deleting the Cat all together (no vehicle inspections here). I have a miller inverter mig to do the exhaust and have rebuilt several engines... so I can do all the work myself... just need a how to thread to read and someone to talk cam timing with!!! What kind of $$ are we talking for a cam and tune? Not looking to make monster power and tear up the transmission... just more power on the front end of the curve so it doesn't feel like a dog from 0-30mph.
Actually 120k miles and very little rust, clean interior and rhino liner in the bed. Farmer used it very little. Little rust in the bottom of the rockers but I'll be replacing them and rhino lining the entire rocker area. No cab corner rust either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a 2002 2500HD 6.0L and it's all stock except for 2" lift. Stock tires and rims. I'm not impressed with the 0-30mph and lack of torque and HP on the front end of the torque curve. I'm used to a Tundra with 381hp at 5,600rpm not 300hp at 4,400rpm. I use the truck 1-2 days a week to commute and the rest for towing trailers (3k lbs to 10k lbs). I don't want to pour a bunch of $$$ into small mods with little yield in up front power. What do I want? Cam or programmer? Suggestions for other threads to read?
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