6ftdwn57

current setup after bringing the rear down another inch.

I'll try and do some launches from a stop on my way home from work today, and check out how it feels. But as for normal driving(bumps, potholes, dips, etc.) seems to be working very well. No complaints.

Just to inform of my findings. To get that last inch I desired on my McGaughys rear flip kit, I was able to use their GM short shackle. This was used in conjunction with their adjustable spring hanger. This will get you back the inch you lose when you trade out your stock hanger and use theirs. I have put 180 miles on this new setup and it rides perfectly. No binding, clunking, or squeeking. The shackles clear the spring and the hanger just fine. Ride quality is great, no change from stock shackles. Others might have a problem if you still have your stock hangers equipped. These shackles are specifically designed to work paired to their adjustable hangers. All in all, if your looking for maximum drop from your flip kit, just leave your stock hangers on. Looking back, that's what I should have done. Now the truck is sitting exactly where I wanted it to be.

you have liners in the rear? Mine only came with them on the front. Thats nice!

hmm...weird to hear of the vast differences between truck to truck. sounds like your springs are softer or something. but maybe thats the just the difference 1'' can make

I said forget the bumpstops, and those shorter aftermarket ones. Hasn't bottomed out on the axle yet after 10,000miles. Maybe try removing them? Gives you alot more room. I literally havent come close yet to touching. I taped a bottle cap to the bottom of the frame for a while, just to see, and it never hit. It's alot nicer ride, then to be bouncing around banging into those rubber stops all the time

ok cool keep me posted. Why going back up? Bottoming out on the axle too often?

Used their hanger, and bolted it at the highest setting, for the most drop. Had to fold over the pinch weld on the bottom of the bed to mount it up. This should have been a 6" drop, which it very well may have been.(I didnt take fender measurements before I did the drop) But I'm looking for one more inch.

Well looks like im screwed then. I scrapped the stock hangers a few weeks ago when I did a spring cleaning of my shop, so I cant even put them back on to get the 1" back. I really want to come down another 1''.

Really? Damn! Did it feel like not allowing the springs to move or something? Like a harsher ride?

I used McGuaghys flip kit, with their lift hanger, and stock shackles. Lift hanger set to the highest setting(for most drop). This is supposed to achieve 6" of drop. If I would have kept my stock hangers, then I would have yielded 7" of drop. So now, Im going with McGuaghys shackle designed for their flip kit with lift hanger for another 1" of drop, putting me down to 7". Which would be opposite of what you would need to lower, if you havent done a flip and lift hanger

To clear everything up: If you have used McGuaghys flip kit, with lift hanger, then you need shorter(lift) shackles to achieve a drop in suspension. Like in this link: https://switchsuspension.com/gmc-sierra-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-34040/ If you have not used a rear flip kit, then you would need a longer(lowering) shackle to achieve a drop in suspension. Like in this link: https://switchsuspension.com/chevrolet-silverado-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-2-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-33037/

since my shackle is running pretty much vertical, I would need an 1" shorter shackle to achieve what I want. Which brings us into the lowering/lift shackle debate after flipping. I think the lowering shackle would actually cause lift in this application. I think this is what I'm looking for? Since I'm running the lift hanger from McGaughys. The other "lowering shackles" out on the market look to be much longer, which would cause lift. https://switchsuspension.com/gmc-sierra-1500-2014-2018-rear-1-drop-shackles-mcgaughys-part-34040/

Sorry, looks like after reading back through this thread, if I wanted even a lower drop in the back, I should have stayed with my stock hangers. I'm wondering if a shackle will get me my 1'' I'm looking for. Anyone run that kind of setup?

I am also running bigger tires in the rear now, that isnt shown in those pictures. Nitto 305/40/22 currently, was running 285/40/22. So it raised it up a touch as well.

So I did my drop last year right after I bought the truck. 2017 5.3L 2wd. I went with the McGaughys kit. I set the front at 5" of drop. The back I did the axle flip, and used their new hanger on the highest setting(for the most drop). Went with 4' angle shims on the rear to set the driveline correctly, and had to have the driveshaft shortened. Handles and drives beautifully. Currently running their supplied rear shocks as well(pretty happy with them actually). My question is, comparing my truck to pictures of trucks with the same setup, it looks like I'm missing another 1" of drop in the rear? At first I liked the look of the raked stance, but now I'm wanting the back down lower. Am I missing something here?

Put 10 miles on it and no shimmy or shakes. Did a light launch and it felt great. Need to get it aligned Monday after work. But it's not that far out at all. Maybe a slight negative camber

4/6 drop 1.5" of driveshaft cut down 4 degrees of shims to bring rear pinion back up

Ok so I have 4' pointing down at the tailshaft of the trans. And the pinion is setting pretty much dead level, not even .5' down. What degree pinion shims would be recommended? Driveshaft goes to repair shop tomorrow. I'm at their mercy for when that gets done.

I'll just have the shaft shortened by a shop. I got ahead of myself. Riding to work in the pouring rain on the Harley wasn't fun this morning. Was trying to avoid more days of that. Plus I am anxious to get the truck on the ground and driving. Especially because I am expecting vibrations/shake/noise from incorrect driveline angles, and the day or two extra that will be to sort out.

After some reading I realize now why it wouldnt be so easy as to cut off the end of the yoke. It's possible that the tailshaft of the trans is bottoming out in the inside of the yoke. Not like what I was thinking was happening, which is the end of the yoke bottoming out into the transmission. If this is the case, then cutting down the yoke length would not help.

After some reading I realize now why it wouldnt be so easy as to cut off the end of the yoke. It's possible that the tailshaft of the trans is bottoming out in the inside of the yoke. Not like what I was thinking was happening, which is the end of the yoke bottoming out into the transmission. If this is the case, then cutting down the yoke length would not help.

Not sure if I'm explaining myself in the clearest manner. The slip yoke is being pushed into the transmission an inch further than it was stock after being dropped, causing it to bottom out in the transmission. So cut off the inch from the end of the slip yoke, and it will still be sliding into the trans the same depth as before the drop, but not bottoming out.

I was looking at the slip yoke on the driveshaft. With what I'm seeing, I'm wondering why I couldn't cut off 1" from the end, chamfer the O.D. and I.D. and put it back under the truck. The rubber dust boot would squeeze together a bit, but I dont see that causing a problem. Wouldn't you still have the same amount of spline contact/engagement as stock? Since we are going into the transmission an inch further than stock? The splines do not go all the way down the I.D. of the slip yoke. Am I missing something? Im thinking of giving it a go tonight when I get home from work.