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Screan29

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About Screan29

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  • Birthday 06/27/1979

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  1. Yeah trying to figure out how to get them to show to upload
  2. I'm running a black widow race venom 2.5 i/o in place of the stock muffler. Flapper removed as well as resonator. With the resonator on it sounded stock still. Once off you could tell the difference. No drone at all (afm is disabled so can't speak for v4 mode). Its not loud inside while idling or cruising but it screams at wot. I don't like stupid loud and like to hear people talking to me from the backseat. I was worried this was going to be too loud as I have always ran their 250 series prior. CAI didn't do much but make the note a little deeper. I think the 250 series has a deeper tone than this and may go back to it once I install long tube headers.
  3. A chevy without ticking? I had a suburban do the same thing. After we rebuilt the top end and did away with the hydraulic lifters it all but went away. It is probably always there but when the truck goes from v8 to v4 and back to v8 it may be more noticable with the hydraulic lifters build back up. AFM destroys engines. It's why Cadillac did away with it when they tried it in the 80's. One of the first things I do is deactivate it on all of my chevys. I rather loose a little mpg then destroy my engines. Good luck!
  4. Went and saw a friend at the dealership and we played around trying to recreate the issue to see if he could pin point it. We had no luck. Even the dealer software could not find any stored codes that a scanner may not read. Of course when we drove it we got nothing as well! We even parked it in their carwash and soaked it to get as much moisture into it. He rechecked everything I did to settle his brain that it was indeed done. We determined it was certainly an electrical issue. I asked about the fuse block as we have an 07 that melted the connection under it but it wasn't acting like this one. He kept my truck over night and rigged up a jump out harness to the bottom of the fuse junction block so we would not disturb anything testing it as while removed it tested good. Low and behold it failed first try in the morning and the issue was the junction box ($157) to buy from the dealer. Super easy to do as long as you don't rush removing the connectors and break something. Have had it in for several days and rain storms without issue. Took the old block apart to inspect it and saw no visible damage. No signs or arcing or water intrusion. However the board in it is a two piece board with pins on both sides and all of the circuits sandwiched inside. Had a friend who builds boards split them without damaging so we could look inside and could certainly see water intrusion. The board has three well finished sides and one that is rough from where it looks like it is cut after. That rough side was were the water got in and damaged the circuits inside. Sucks you can't see it any other way. All in all was an easy repair once we were able to isolate it. Total cost was just over $200 as I replaced my ground in the beginning that had some corrosion. My friend told me it costs around $500 to do it at the dealer. Part plus 3 hours of labor in case you don't want to try and just let them do it.
  5. To me its higher pitched in sound. I think my 250 had a deeper tone to it. I will get some videos for you. I wanted it a little louder but with it the tone has changed as well.
  6. At first I didnt as I was use to the venom250. I was worried the racevenom would have been too loud. However, once installed you still could not hear it. So I removed the resonator and the exhaust pipe dumps just after the axle. I can get you some. What do you want to hear? It's louder but no drone. I drive a lot on the highway. I also have v4 mode disabled which helps with drone.
  7. So a little update on the issue. Battery is good. Installed a new battery ground. All connections have been cleaned, inspected, and treated to keep out moisture. Still no change. So this morning I had the same no crank / no start with no communication from the ECU. I decided to put in neutral and try. Truck fired right up. Happy and mad at the same time now. It's not just a start issue though as I still have the common loss while driving. I am hoping I have greatly narrowed my search. So far no obvious signs of external wiring damage so I guess I'm off to the dealer to see what their computer tells us. Interestingly when I am driving it the truck starts to sputter I can shift into neutral and it will immediately stop until back in drive...
  8. My 2016 driveway build in progress... 6" fabtech with BDS 6" front struts (5" lift in front to keep factory rake). 20x9 hostile rims with 35x12.50 nittos. Cai, black widow race venom muffler and blackbear tune.
  9. Any prerunner fender kit will allow this. That is about it for that size tire on a 6 inch lift.
  10. Yeah replacing my ground is my next step. I've checked the g218 ground and the passenger side as well. Being as I have zero codes I have a hard time believing the ECM is intermittently failing. I have probably read every one of those posts lol. Watched every video making sure I wasn't skipping a step. Going to try and get s ground cable tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for your feedback Rusty!
  11. As the title says I have a no crank/ no start on a 2016 Silverado. A million posts on it but nothing that is helping my situation. So take a seat this is gonna take a minute to explain. This is an intermediate issue which normally occurs in the morning (dew) or when it rains. Everything is dry as can be expected under the hood. Another feature of this is when I do get it to run the engine signals will stop at the dash (no oil, temp, tach, or speedo) mileage also goes away and will stop registering while driving. Throttle becomes hesitant and engine feels like it is missing. It will then correct itself and repeat. I get all the service warnings when this comes up for 4wd, stabilitack, and so on) sometimes the ac will stop blowing cold and the power steering will fail during this time when the dash blanks out. I have checked all grounds, positive cable connections, fuses and relays as well. I have no stored fault codes so I'm believing I have a power or short somewhere. When I have the no crank/ no start I have no communication at the OBD port. I have checked pin 6 and 14 during this and read 118 ohms. I replaced the two relays and immediately got a reading of 61 ohms! Truck started and ran fine (no rain though) came home and stabilitrak service message came up. Then the truck wouldn't crank/ start and it all started all over again. Trying to avoid the dealership but seems I am running out of options. Appreciate any advice, guidance, or help! Steve
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