Jump to content

BanoChris

Member
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About BanoChris

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Monty
  • Location
    Augusta GA.
  • Drives
    2006 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 Full size
  1. Where is the Camshaft position sensor on this thing. Some one said beside the starter, one said in the front, some say under the intake manifold, and some said in the back on the top next to the oil pressure sensor. 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0L LS2 gas 2 wheel drive crew cab. According to the VIN decoder.
  2. If there is spark, timing is good, compression is good, and fuel pressure is good, what would keep ALL the injectors from working?
  3. Thanks, that makes sense it's part of the pump. The guy at Advanced Auto asked if the pump had 1 or 3 lines attached to it. I'm thinking there is only one due to the fact that the FPR is in the pump. I'm planning on pulling a plug tonight and giving a visual, but when I sprayed some "Engine Start" into the throttle body it chugged, so I'm assuming there is spark. I also don't smell any gas at the tail pipe after several failed attempts to start.
  4. I was looking for the fuel pressure regulator but not seeing it on the fuel rail on either side. Is it built into the fuel pump. According to the VIN decoder, this is a 6.0L LS2? I'll take a couple pics and post them tonight.
  5. Yea I would never keep the starter running for that long. My ol' man drilled that into me a long time ago. :-) Yes it stops after about 5 seconds even if the key is still turned to keep it going. Is that normal?
  6. Is it normal for the starter to run for only about 5 seconds when trying to start the engine?
  7. If there is 60lbs of fuel pressure at prime, even if the fuel pump was hosed, shouldn't I at least be getting a sputter? The odd thing is that I'm not getting any codes.
  8. I can feel and hear the relay throw when the key is turned to the run position. I swapped it with the headlight relay and the headlights still worked and the relay still clicked when the key was turned to run. I was also able to hear the fuel pump prime when the key was turned to the run position. It lasted about 3 seconds. I put a fuel pressure test gauge on the left fuel rail and bled the line. When the pump primed it jumped to 60lbs and then dropped to 55lbs. I bled the pressure off and then when the key was turned to start, the pressure jumped to 60lbs then down to
  9. Well that's good to know... I'll make sure and check the MAP connection. I was pretty much on top of the engine trying to get to the Oil Pressure Sensor. Even though I was careful, I could have easily pinched or disconnected something. If something was shorted, like the MAP, would I get a code?
  10. Thanks Nick. It looks like there are several relays that are the same as the fuel pump. I'll try swapping them, but I have a feeling you're probably right. I suppose the best way to replace the pump is to lift the bed..?
  11. So I did a little research and found a GM VIN Decoder. According to to that decoder I have a 6.0L LS2 engine type. The Crank Shaft sensor is right by the starter and the camshaft sensor is up front just above and to the right of the harmonic balancer. So I'll check those tonight. I'm going to get a fuel pressure tester as well and see what happens. What should the fuel rail pressure be after the pump primes? http://www.chevythunder.com/gen_iv_engine_family.htm
  12. Is the Crankshaft PS on the front right of the block and the Camshaft PS on the back? If they where hosed or disconnected shouldn't I be getting a P code? I'll double check all the connections I can find. I'll also listen for the pump to prime. I'm assuming the lockout is part of the relay, Is there a way to test it? I sprayed a little "Engine Start" in the throttle body and it chugged, so it sounds like I have spark.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.