Try loosening (but not removing) ALL of the bolts on both ends of all the mounting brackets (the bumper end and the frame end) that attach the bumper to truck. you may then be able to align the bumper by blocking it up, then re tighten everything. If there are a couple points that seem to have less play than others and they are inhibiting the alignment, get a step drill and enlarge the holes slightly, or if u need more slack in a bracket when tight, try shimming those with washers. its worked for me in the past.
When mine did this, it turned out to be low on Fluid. The dipstick said it was fine with the bottom 1/3 of the hash marks covered. Went to 3 Tranny shops with no one able to offer a solution.. I randomly threw in a quart for for Sh1ts & giggles. Turns out it needed 2quarts, and all was well.
Dumb question, but have you tried adding fluid? I know its a different tranny, but my 4L80E was flaring and occasionally/briefly falling into a "neutral" state on the 1-2 shift (no gear). I went to 3 transmission shops. They all checked the fluid for look, smell and volume (the level was in the bottom 1/3 of the hash marks but "normal") and hooked up a scanner to find no codes. No one had an explanation because otherwise it was driving great. One day i just figured I'd pour in a quart of fluid and see what happened, the dipstick level didn't change, so I threw in another. That brought it up to just about full (yes, the trans was warm and engine running) Turns out it was 2 quarts low despite what the dipstick said, and all the problems went away.
My truck is older ('00 2500), with a mechanical fan. Over the years,I've been debating putting in a 180 deg thermostat mostly just to run it at a lower temp around town. The coolant itself has never exceeded 210, even when towing hard through the desert. The transmission however was another issue. when towing in summer in the desert, AC on etc. the trans would get up near the 200 mark, or a little higher on grades. I wanted to cool the trans down, but I had two additional goals; 1. I did not want the trans to run cooler all the time (when not towing, or in the winter etc) or too cold period. 2. I did not want to add heat to the radiator stack. (putting an additional cooler for oil or trans fluid etc. in front of the radiator does make the target fluid cooler, but at the expense of adding heat to everything behind it). My solution was to add a B&M Hi-Tek trans cooler with a fan and mount it horizontal under the truck. I built a rack from frame to frame just behind the transmission mount cross member and I tapped into the return line for the tranny for the fluid feed. The results were amazing. Just adding the cooler (without its fan on and no air blowing through it since its horizontal under the truck) lowered the trans operating temp by around 20 deg in unladen around town driving. (It now warms up to about 140 on an 80 deg day). Towing is even better. Without the cooler fan running, I'm at about 160 with the AC on and at freeway speed with a 4K lbs trailer on an 90 deg day. For hills, I can flip on the fan, and she'll stay around 160 on a 6% grade. The unintended side effect is that with the trans operating at a lower temp, the trans fluid that is circulating through the radiator core and the factory auxiliary cooler, is much colder, which in turn does not transfer as much heat to the radiator core & oil cooler. The result is that my oil temp has lowered (i have a gauge) and from this, I can extrapolate that I now have some additional cooling capacity for the engine coolant (i don't know for sure because of the 210 thermostat.) but it makes sense. Also, without having as much heat being fed to the engine bay, she seems to have picked up some horses when towing. (i know, its probably my imagination) just a thought on skinning the the same cat a different way.
I've experienced this as well. I've owned my 2000 2500 since new, and once in a while, while on a long flat stretch with cruise control on, the torque converter seems to unlock and re lock periodically causing the rpms to jump 400 or so. There is no shudder symptomatic of a slipping converter, and it has never thrown a code or run hot per the gauge. It has been doing this periodically since new and the truck now has 171,000 miles on it. (I've noticed that it usually happens when the AC is on and speed is high). Thinking maybe the brief spike in throttle to compensate for the a/c compressor cycling on/off is sending a code to the tranny to unlock for a little more HP. Anyway, my point is that its never been a problem. just a thought....
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