I can get higher shift points just by engaging tow/haul mode and keeping the trans in L5. The last thing I want to do is start altering the factory setup. Too many headaches for me. And although I CAN get downshifts if I lay into the throttle enough, I find that I don't need to do that if my RPM's are already up and I only need moderate acceleration. It's when the truck is in 8th gear at 50mph that I need to kick down in order to get moving.
I've had my Denali for about 4 months now and I've gotten into a habit that makes the truck more driveable for me, even if it's at the expense of a few mpg's. When I put the truck into forward gear for around town, city driving, I slide the selector lever all the way to L and then use the stalk button to select 5 as the highest gear. This keeps the rpm's right where I want them for city driving (under 50ish), prevents the unnecessary upshifting to gears 6-8, and keeps the power available for acceleration/re-acceleration without the need for a downshift and the associated delays. Anyone else do this? See any harm in it?
I just bolted on the GM offered Borla twin rear exit system (I've been told this is the Touring model) on my '18 Sierra Denali 6.2 crew cab short bed (Part number 19303341) with dual black rectangular tips and I think it sounds perfect. I wanted something more aggressive than stock but no drone and not obnoxious. Not cheap, but I like the fact that it's GM approved, bolted right on with some tweaking and adjusting, and warranted by Borla for a million miles. lol
Ridding your truck of some of the chrome? I just did that to my new '18 Sierra Denali by replacing it with the Elevation grille (GM # 84065168) painted to match Mineral metallic. Came out great. Ordered the new OEM grille off ebay for $457, had a shop paint it for $100, and sold the Denali grille in one day. Replaced the chrome skid plate with a black one. Had to take the bumper completely off to replace the skid plate. There were 4 screws hidden behind the bumper.
Done. Just installed it a few minutes ago. I love it. The black skid plate was a must to go along with the mostly blacked out grille and GMC logo. Part number for the grill with paint to match surround (from the SLT Elevation package) is 84065168 for anyone else who wants to do this. Job was fairly straightforward for anyone with reasonable auto tech skills. The entire bumper did have to come off in order to install the skid plate but it was a matter of six easy to get to bolts, removing a plate from each side of the back of the bumper, and a bit of wire harness jostling and nothing more. It was worth the effort. Only thing that could go wrong is the "upper cap" (the big piece of trim between the grill and the bumper) could break tabs when removing it (worst case scenario because it's $400 and needs to be painted) OR (what happened to me) you could break one of the plastic retention pieces at each end of the upper cap. I was going to install the cap with the broken retainer but being OCD I just couldn't do it. Picked up the part at the local dealer for $17. My stock Denali grille and chrome skid plate are now for sale. They had 250 miles on them when I took them off. Pristine condition. No broken tabs, no broken anything. Next up, installation of the OEM Borla performance exhaust with rectangular rear-exit tips.
New parts have arrived and paint to match body color is complete. Installation today. Not too difficult, but getting the "upper cap" (the body colored trim that's just above the bumper and just below the grille) to release from the retention tabs was not easy and it resulted in a couple of tabs breaking on the right side retainer. Thankfully, the upper cap wasn't the piece that broke because it's $400 and needs to be painted. The side retainer was $20 but you need to remove the headlight and peel back the inner fender well to replace it. I also replaced the chrome "skid plate" piece that the front license plate mounts to with a black one. This required removal of the entire bumper because 4 of the umpteen screws that hold it on were hidden behind metal support brackets behind the bumper. Not a big deal to remove the bumper once the grille is out. Six bolts and a wiring connector and harness is all.
You're right. Upon further inspection, there are four screws that mount from the back of the main part of the grill and thread into the outer portion. Oh well. It'll have to wait.
Arrived and ready for paint. Wish I knew whether I could install the main portion now and snap the outer trim on after paint. I do not want to do this job twice.
I'll let you know. New grille should be here today and maybe painted by next week.
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