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About MBTX

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  1. Movario - the service manager at the dealership said in text to me on Friday August 2nd, that "all codes are low voltage codes, negative battery cable has 420mv voltage drop, spec is 180mv. Battery tested good" That was the original diagnosis and the same was repeated when they changed the cable again on September 4th, only this time they added a resistance issue to the cable as an manufacturer defect from supplier. Its all still happening. sk - I will forward this to the Chevy dealership. After speaking with GM corporate today, they said the dealership is not responding to their requests and they are escalating the case up. It's very frustrating to say the least but I hope they can come together and figure this out.
  2. Thanks for the Reply Movario. The dealership doesn't specify the exact test they do. The paperwork shows "tested electrical system, negative battery cable shows to be faulty" and the reasons given above are what's written down about resistance etc. I have asked about the alternator and battery each time I am at the dealership and the answer is that they have tested fine. The only fix I can do to keep the truck driving when it starts to fail and lose power to various systems, is turn it off and then back on again. The battery indicator shoots up to almost full 14, then slowly creeps down until it starts to fail. I replaced the battery on June 4th as that was what initially was diagnosed. I'm hoping the dealership and Chevy can team up with an on-site engineer and get to the bottom of this issue as its becoming a safety issue now that the truck is turning off driving down the road and doing turning maneuvers above 5 MPH. Prior instances of total power failures happened during low speed parking maneuvers that sent the stabilitrak, parking assist, trailer brake issues into total shorts. The condition would appear to be getting worse.
  3. Thank you woychc for the response. Update is the truck has started turning off again this time while it’s moving in a between 12-25 mph. It died yesterday in an intersection going about 7 mph from stop while turning left. All while recording so I am sending that to corporate with the other videos. The dealership also has the videos. I have opened a case with Chevy corporate warranty and they are trying to work with the dealership to get an engineer onsite. The dealership in North Richland hills can’t get me into a loaner until 10/09 and won’t pay for a rental so I’m stuck driving the car. I suspect the truck will go back in and they will get yet another page of low voltage codes telling them to change negative battery cable which I’m not going to accept if they claim that’s the reason. I’m on my third... Very upset Chevy!
  4. Hello Forums, Please help. My truck has experienced some on going electrical problems. I had video for the second dealership of the multiple issues as they are occurring and so far the truck is still doing it. Post repair it got better for two weeks but are now going back. First some background, then a time line of events, and then video. I purchased the truck from the original owner in 2017 with 29K miles on it. Bought the most expensive aftermarket warranty from Dealership that sold the truck to original owner when I took it in to get looked over and serviced post purchase. The truck now has 56K miles on it. Here is a list of the issues and timeline sorted by year and mileage the best I can remember. August 2017-29K miles_Purchased November 2017-30K miles_ Trailer brake system error_Dealership replaced sensor_problem fixed Flash ECM Flash Radio Software - killed free XM... Other recalls stuff June 4th, 2019-53K miles_Electrical issue As I am pulling into a parking space and coasting with foot on brake, truck steering dies, center console power dies, stereo off, AC off, driver cluster stays on. Then turns back on about 2 seconds later, hear a beap that sub and amp are back on through speaker chirp, AC comes back on with all other displays. This is as I am pulling in forward. I stop the truck, turn it off and turn it back on, drive around for 5 minutes and re park 10 times and can't get it to do it again. I think its a fluke but the next day I can't get my truck to start so the original battery is deemed dead. I change it out for closest match with higher cold cranking amps at Auto zone and I am back to driving. June 22nd, 2019-54,360 miles_Electrical issue As I am pulling into my drive way and going about 3-6 MPH as soon as I straighten my wheels, and about to come to a stop, my internal displays, AC, stereo radio screen turn off, driver cluster un affected. The truck is still on and running from the engine standpoint, but power steering is off. I turn the truck off and restart, voltage on the battery indicator goes from lower end of middle range bar to a little past highest rating on middle range bar. I drive around to to see if I can get this issue to come back but it wont. July 10th, 2019-55,255 miles_Electrical issue Same thing as before, making a low speed turn applying brakes into a parking spot and all power to cab interior dies, then comes back on. Drive around but cant get it to have the issue. Take to first Chevy dealership, they run codes off my story, have it for the a day and a half, and claim they can't find anything wrong with it. August 2, 2019-55,911 miles_Electrical issue Same thing as before, however this time I am in a parking lot trying to go into a spot, I have to reverse and thats when all heck breaks loose. I get: Stabilitrak Service Warning Bells dinging like I just got into my car and put key into ignition. Rear Parking assist symbols unavailable on nav screen, more bells dinging Park Assist off warning Put in park and everything looks fine and normal, people watching me are like why is this idiot pulling into and out of parking space over and over I put it in reverse and information warnings continue, with parking assist, issues, stabilitrak issues, driver cluster still on, but AC off, and center console off, power steering off, truck engine still running. Finally after about the 4th time going back and forth into the spot, the truck completely dies and I have to turn the key off, and restart the truck in the middle of the parking maneuver. I drive it around for 10 minutes and seems fine now. Thankfully I had video of the entire thing because I began to sense when I thought it would happen. I take the truck and video to Chevy dealership, within 20 minutes they have hooked it up and diagnosed the issue: Battery good alternator good everything else good Negative battery cable bad. Reason shown on test Negative Battery cable has 420mv voltage drop, drop spec is 180 mv. All codes given are low voltage codes Repair was to replace this. While all this was going on I also had a power steering flash required from Recall that was completed. August 10, 2019-56K miles_electrical issue Same as prior but only made some dings and stabilitrak but things were better I guess. August 13, 2019-56K miles_Electrical issue Same as prior August 30th, 2019-56K miles_Electrical issue Okay enough is enough This time as I am pulling into my sons school to drop off lunch, the truck goes bananas, stabiltrak, park assist, AC off, and now the power steering is dieing and the truck is not running right and my left hand get stuck in the steering wheel and the wheel racks hard left and I hurt my arm... I got video. Much more violent power steering issue post flash. I drive straight to Chevy dealership drop off. September 3rd, 2019-56K miles_electrical & power steering issue Get a call around 3:00 PM from Dealership (that originally found negative battery cable issue.) telling me they are running the diagnostic test but nothing is popping up. September 4th, 2019-56K miles_Electrical Issue Dealership rep called and said, they performed extensive testing and now are getting this. The negative battery cable is showing the incorrect amount of resistance therefore they are again deeming the negative battery cable to be the culprit. Sorry on the video, I had to trim it down from the latest video to show what happens due to forum restrictions. You will see though that as I am turning the wheel and as the issue happens the battery indicator moves down sharply and then comes back up. Has any one else dealt with something similar and if so what was the cause? Any electrical guys out there agreeing with the test results? Thanks, MB IMG_8169.TRIM.MOV
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