Deereman

I was talking to someone who had tried finding replacement brake hoses for a 90’s model Silverado. Don’t remember what year exactly it was but ran into the same problem. Said he ended up grinding a bit off the banjo to let it clear the caliper. I don’t want to do that. I have found some listings online of hoses that look the same as the originals. Part # 19366682

Different, mine has 2 curves in the tube and is longer.

Noticed some small cracks forming in the flexible front brake hoses where they pivot at the steering knuckle. Decided to replace them, can't seem to locate the correct hoses though. First got Napa Hoses from the local Napa store, these didn't have a pipe on the caliper end. These were Part #'s 381298 and 381299 Probably would have worked except the banjo fitting was too wide and hit the back of the piston housing of the caliper. Couldn't get the banjo fitting to seat on the caliper. I took those back and they ordered AC Delco Part #'s 18J1654 and 18J1655. These have a pipe on the caliper end but isn't bent like the original, first installed one and it rubs on the factory 16" aluminum alloy wheel. I twisted it as far from the wheel as it could go but doesn't allow much clearance at all between the hose and wheel weights. They have now ordered another set of AC Delco hoses but said they have no pipe on the end, I have a suspicion these will be the same as the first set of hoses I got. The original hoses had the pipe bent to go around the rear of the caliper, but no one seems to be able to find a Part # for that hose. Ideas?

Took a look at this pickup, dash was working fine no pending loss of communication codes and the Alternator was charging. Figured it shouldn't leave her stranded, possibly also a one time glitch.

Good to know, will see what becomes of this one.

My cousin has a 99 Silverado 1500, she said a couple days ago she started it up and moved it in the driveway. Gauges weren't working and the Odometer and shift indicator was reading 0's and 8's also sounded like all the warning lights were on. Next day she started it and everything seemed normal. I haven't looked at it yet, is there anything to check I was going to make sure the alternator was charging and it's not a lack of power issue. Also was going to plug my code reader into it and see if there's some type of loss of communication code stored. Ideas? Thanks

I’ll have to look into that. I thought you could run a vacuum pump into a container, maybe I’m wrong.

On mine the sticker is on the radiator support. I was planning to do the recovery myself with a vacuum pump and scale, and recover the Freon into a recovery can. I wouldn’t mind having some HVAC tools for future projects.

Will I need to add oil with the recharge, or does that stay in the system when it’s put under vacuum?

I plugged back into it today at 70* ambient temp. Before starting the truck I had 72psi on the high and low side. Running I had 25 psi low and 145 psi high. When I gave it throttle the low side dropped to around 22 and high side went to 160. After the idle came back the compressor kicked back in. Which it wasn't doing the other day. We did remove a bit of freon.

My 2000 Silverado blows cold air until the engine is revved. When the vehicle is started it will blow cold air low side at 32psi 70* ambient temp, High side around 150. When I rev it up the high side will come up to around 200 psi and the compressor will kick out and won't start again until I shut the engine off and restart it. I have by passed the low pressure switch at the dryer, High Pressure switch at the compressor and the one leaving the condenser with no change.

My 71 C50 hasn't had working wipers, I don't know why but someone had taken the arms off and left them in the cab. I ended up not having power to the wiper motor from the fuse box, the cluster feed is also like this because of rust in the panel. I ran a new wire with an inline fuse from the key to the wiper motor hot. I then wanted to test the wiper switch but pulled the back off of it when trying to disconnect the wires. I got a universal replacement switch from the local parts store and it wipes and I can hear the washer pump try to pump but I only have one wiper speed. The old switch had 3 positions and the knob would push in. What is supposed to regulate the two speeds? Or do I have a single speed motor?

Okay

The only way they come on is by using the dome override switch. When they come on they stay on with the door open or closed. The only way to turn them back off is to push the dome override switch again. I will check into the relay, where is the timer located?

I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 LT extended cab. The interior lights don't come on when either front door is opened. Opening the driver door with the key in the ignition sounds the key in ignition dinger as well as turning the radio off. Opening the passenger door does nothing, no lights, no response from radio or dinger. I can turn the interior lights on by using the dome override button and by turning the dash panel dimmer to the dome position. Any ideas where to start? A breakdown of the system would help if anyone has one. Thanks

My Temperature gauge doesn't work, there is power to the cluster, and good continuity from the sensor wire to the ground portion of the gauge. If I ground the sensor wire to the block the gauge only goes about 3/4 of the way to H. I took the cluster out of the truck and hooked a jumper cable to the hot terminal on the gauge and the sensing plug, the gauge pegged to H immediately, I then grounded the body of the gauge and it went back to C. Any idea what's going on here? I also have good continuity throughout the printed circuit.

Sounds simple enough, Thanks

I see there's some antifreeze on the wire loom at the front of the oil pan on my 2000 5.3L. I assume it's coming from the water pump gasket, what tool do you guys use to hold the water pump pulley to spin the fan clutch off? Thanks

I have code PO442 for a small evap leak. I built a smoke machine that will produce quite a bit of smoke, but I can't attach it to the schrader valve at the evap service port. So I disconnected the connector at the purge solenoid and attached the smoke line there. I ran the smoker and couldn't find a leak of smoke anywhere in the system. I'm sure I can't do very good diagnostics on this though because my scan tool isn't capable of doing Bi Directional tests. Any Ideas? I was thinking I should see smoke coming from somewhere.

Hello, I have a 71 GMC 950, it has a Signal Stat 900 turn signal switch. When I turn the left signal on everything works good if I turn the right signal on with the headlights off the blinkers blink but so do the dash lights. If I turn the right signal on with the head or parking lights on the signal indicator and dash lights go dim and the signal comes on solid. I am assuming this is a ground problem somewhere. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I don't know what the thought process was but I thought I should add, someone has wired the taillights and the dash lights into a toggle switch on the left side of the gauge cluster. The factory headlight switch still turns on the headlights and front parking lights and also dims the dashlights. Thanks

I have a 71 GMC 950 manure truck with a small block and 2 jet Rochester carb. When it gets up to speed going down the road it starts popping out the exhaust when cruising, if I give it more throttle it quits and starts doing it again when I back off the throttle. It seems to run fine except this no loss of power or rough running other than the popping. Any ideas? I messed with the timing a bit today and had it advanced to the point it would spark knock when starting out so I moved the timing back to where I started. The vacuum advance isn't hooked up I'm not sure who unhooked it, I did put a hose on the advance can on the distributor and sucked on it and didn't see anything inside move so I'm thinking the diaphragm is bad.

I put the points, condenser and plugs in. That fixed it. The exhaust smells a bit gassy and the new plugs are a bit black like it's running rich. The only mixture screws on the carb appear to be for the idle circuit? It's also a little hesitant sometimes when I punch the throttle to wide open, it could have been like that before.

Closer look at the points the arm side is burnt pretty good going to pickup a set of points a condenser and plugs

The cap had a little corrosion on a few terminals, I cleaned it off with my knife but maybe replace it? Rotor looks fine. Choke isn't stuck closed. PCV is already unhooked, it has chrome valve covers with breather caps in each. It still has points they are a little corroded around the edges, I will try cleaning them up and re gapping.

Hello, I have a 1971 GMC 950, I am storing firewood in the manure box that's on it now and have been unloading some into the woodshed as needed. I'm not sure what engine is in it but I believe it's a small block. It has a 2 barrel Rochester Carb. It has been running near perfect and today I moved it across the yard from the garage where it's parked to the woodshed and let it run while unloading wood and could hear it loading up. When I went to park it it wouldn't hardly rev up, backfiring through the exhaust and carb and blowing lots of blue smoke when given throttle. I thought maybe the plugs were fouling so I wire brushed them and burnt the carbon off with a propane torch and there's no change. The vacuum advance is unhooked and has been I'm not sure when that was done but it was running fine up until today, nothing in the engine has been touched in the last couple years. It idles just fine but when given a little throttle it starts to stumble and when increasing throttle it begins backfiring and a couple times shot flames out the carb. Any ideas what's causing my issue.