I would think that with the work you are doing, a tune for both the ECM and TCM would make a lot of sense. There are a couple options for tuning the 6L80, so you should be able to dial it in.
Nice! If you add one 6 quart case to your cart it asks you to select a second at no cost. Shipping still applies unless you order something else to qualify for free shipping. Even without that, it's a great deal.
I just bought a set of these. They had a flash sale of $80 off. Add that to the $60 rebate and they come out to $185 per tire before tax, mounting, and balancing. No experience with them yet as they just arrived yesterday. I read good things though. Some say they are an improved version of the Duratracs. Time will tell.
I ended up buying one. It looks like it attaches to one of the transmission bolts. You need an M8 x 1.25 nut to fasten it to the exposed threads of the bolt. However, I couldn't get it to fit my 2018 no matter how I positioned it. Figures too since I spent time painting it. Oh well, it's actually pretty easy to fill the transmission from the engine bay using a funnel and long hose.
Definitely worthwhile to ensure the bolts holding the transmission pan on are snug. They don't require much torque though, so unless the pan was removed and not reinstalled correctly, it may not be that. Perhaps the bolts are too tight and the gasket is not seating properly? It's probably worth dropping the pan to check the condition of the gasket. My bet is that it's starting to melt as it's rubber. A heat shield is something easy to try. If I spent that much on an exhaust, I'd have it coated with something like Swain Tech. I had a set of long tubes and catted Y pipe done once. It cost about $300 and the results were awesome. Super durable and it really keeps the heat inside the exhaust. It lowered the ambient air temp around the pipe quite a bit.
I may be interested. Curious to know about how many miles the muffler was installed for? Also, how did you have it installed, welded or clamped on somehow? It doesn't look like it was welded, but wanted to confirm. Thanks!
If it has been serviced before and it is operating normally, you should be good with a drain, pan drop, filter changed, and refill. I personally would not do any type of flush. If never serviced previously, there is always a chance you will experience some slipping after replacing the fluid once the fluid warms up. You might get away with adding a conditioner to the fluid if that does happen. I'd probably do it and see what happens, but that is just me. If it does slip after, it's probably time for a rebuild anyway.
Thanks for the video! Very cool. I honestly don't mind having to drop the Y pipe to remove the pan. It gives me a chance to put anti-sieze on the manifold bolts which helps when it comes time for future exhaust work.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad to know I'm going about this the correct way. My plan was to do the filter change and fluid replacement at ambient temperature, not with the transmission at operating temp. Once I've replaced the same amount of fluid I took out, I would follow the procedure to bring the transmission up to temp and then check the fluid level, adding/removing fluid as necessary. Since there is no drain plug, I have no desire to drop the pan with transmission fluid at operating temperature. That's just asking for misery.
I'm approaching 30,000 miles on my 2018 Sierra with the 8 speed transmission. At this point, with all of my previous vehicles (2013 Yukon w/6L80 for example), I drop the transmission pan, change the filter, and refill with the same amount of fluid that I removed. My Sierra doesn't necessarily exhibit the "shudder" problem that others experience, but I do get a rough shift from first to second in the morning on some occasions. With that, I plan to do the process I mentioned previously to my 2018 Sierra, using the following items: - A hand operated fluid pump to remove the old fluid via the fill hole on the transmission. - 12 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP (blue label). - 1 ACDelco TF922 Professional Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter. - A hand operated fluid pump to add the new fluid via the fill hole on the transmission equal to the amount that was removed. Once complete, I will check the fluid level using the below procedure (found here). I've watched the video on YouTube about checking the fluid level which lines up with the below procedure, but I haven't found a good document that describes the filter and fluid change process, other than having the dealer triple flush it as outlined in the TSB (no filter change), which I'm not convinced is necessary in this case. I assume the process I outline above, based on what I've done for the 6L80, is applicable to the 8L90, with some variation in refilling? For those of you who have done this before or have more experience than I do with the 8L90, can you please chime in and confirm/deny I'm on the correct path? Thank you! This procedure checks both the transmission fluid level, as well as the condition of the fluid itself. Since the transmission on this vehicle is not equipped with a fill tube and dipstick, a tube in the bottom pan is used to set the fluid level. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is between 35–45°C (95–113°F). If the TFT is not within this range, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this range will result in either an under or over-filled transmission. TFT>45°C=under-filled, TFT<35°C=over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to discharge out the vent tube, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation. Note: CTS-V/LT1 Camaro, if running a track session, should have the transmission fluid level checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is between 55-65°C (131–149°F). Caution: THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING when the trans oil level check plug is removed or excessive fluid loss will occur, resulting in an under-filled condition. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. Note: Continue to monitor the TFT. If the TFT is not within the specified values, reinstall the trans oil level check plug and repeat the previous steps. Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution. Observe the TFT using the driver information center (DIC) or a scan tool. Start and idle the engine. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range. Pause for at least 3 seconds in each range. Move the shift lever back to PARK. Ensure the engine RPM is low (500–800 RPM). Allow the engine to idle for at least 1 minute. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range. Remove the transmission oil level check plug (1) from the transmission fluid pan. Allow any fluid to drain. If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out. Refer to Transmission Fluid Fill Procedure. Inspect the fluid color. The fluid should be red or dark brown. If the fluid color is very dark or black and has a burnt odor, inspect the fluid and inside of the bottom pan for excessive metal particles or other debris. A small amount of “friction” material in the bottom pan is a “normal” condition. If large pieces and/or metal particles are noted in the fluid or bottom pan, flush the oil cooler and cooler lines and overhaul the transmission. If there are no signs of transmission internal damage noted, replace the fluid filter assembly, repair the oil cooler, and flush the cooler lines. Fluid that is cloudy or milky or appears to be contaminated with water indicates engine coolant or water contamination. Refer to Engine Coolant/Water in Transmission. Replace the transmission oil level check plug and tighten to 9 Y (80 lb in). Inspect for external leaks. Refer to Fluid Leak Diagnosis.
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