I have a 2012 Ram 2500 with the Cummins 6.7 Diesel. 800 ft lbs of torque. Very few issues with it I love it. It hauls our 5th wheel like its not even there. The first truck I ever owned that I can set the cruise control on while towing and it maintains the set speed going up hills or down. Exhaust brake kicks in going downhill. And with this year no DPF fluid adding with passive regeneration.
Yeah, I'm more inclined to just replace the SAS at this point. Whether it tests good or bad, everything I've read says that year is not resettable. I know I cheaped out when I replaced the 1st time too so that could entirely be the problem. It'll just have to wait a bit until the budget allows it. I want my truck back! The wife's hauling all the grandkids around in my Ram.
Well I guess you can't believe everything you read. I got this from GM Parts Center: Getting a Diagnosis in 5 Easy Steps All you need is an ohmmeter and 5 minutes of your time. Go underneath the dash and locate the steering column.Next to the column is a wiring connector wrapped in foam tape. Grab a nonmetallic tool and scrape off enough foam tape so that you can access the connector.Use a small flathead screwdriver or pick to remove a plastic retaining pin from the connector. Then unplug the connector. Connect an ohmmeter to the orange and blue leads of the sensor. (NOTE: Wire color may be different on your vehicle, so be sure to check your shop manual or 'google' it. Just know that no harm will be done if you measure the wrong leads.)Have a friend turn the wheel back and forth. Watch the ohmmeter - if the value exceeds 12,000 ohms, or shows an open circuit, then it’s time to replace the sensor. If the value stays under 12,000 ohms, then the sensor passed the test.
Well that sounds like fun. So far from what I've found there's a way to test the sensor with a ohmmeter. I can prolly do that with an assistant. But as far as just checking other wires all I can do is look for pinching, chaffing, bent pins on the SAS itself, or the wires in the plug.
I appreciate the input, but I'm not paying the dealership to install a new SAS. I'd get there and they'd charge a ton just to pull the same code (C0455) I already have. Then they'd tell me it's not re programmable and charge me their marked up price for a new one, and then more money to install it. Stealership is more like it. Everything I've read on the particular yr model says once it's taken off center it needs to be replaced.
I did and didn't see anything wrong with them. I even used a little dielectric grease on each pin socket when I put it back. Remember my story, I installed a new one and then a few days later had a alignment done. It started throwing the code then. It could be bad. I've seen new parts fail upon installation. I can't get a real answer from the two closest dealers. Both have said they don't know if it's reprogramable or not! One said "$500 to scan it" and the other said "it starts out at $170". The part is $105! I can change it again but I'm kinda on a budget deficit now LOL! Not really funny, it sucks. But I don't know what else to do.
Hi guys, obviously I'm new and don't really know where to start (intro page, etc) but I'm in need of help. It's my wife's '05 Yukon. Service Stability comes on. My diagnostic tool says it's the Steering Sensor. This will be the second one. She's been driving it and says it feels like the brakes are dragging. I confirmed it feels that way. My tool tells me all the wheel speed sensors are okay. The brakes seem fine but the left rear caliper was hard to depress when I checked it. So just now she was driving it and the Service Stability came on and a groaning noise happened and it pulled left. Scared her half to death. I convinced her to drive the 2 miles home. When she got here she told me it runs better! Like the brakes are no longer dragging. I'm thinking something triggered the ABS? I drove it and can confirm it does drive better! The Service Stability still comes on but I couldn't duplicate any pulling or groaning. Any ideas?
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