Mccula

Ok, thanks- so I didn’t do that when I first replaced the cables. Is my pedal broke now or something? Or should I just start from square one, pull the pedal up, pull on the cable and insert a screwdriver, disconnect the rest of the cables downstream from that, re-adjust the wheel cylinders, replace the cables, hold some tension, then remove the screwdriver and slowly let release the cable; then pump the p brake 3x?

thanks for the reply. I did think of this being an issue, but I tried to get them on with the cables completely unhooked from the intermediate cable and also unhooked from the arm behind the axle that actuates them. Still was unable to get the drums over the new shoes. I would think even if there were a lip, they should still slide over with ease, then have to be adjusted out. I literally could not get the drums over the new shoes with the adjusters completely collapsed in and cables unhooked. I had to put the old shoes back on.

I posted this to another forum but haven't got a reply yet. Hi, I just bought an 02 silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 and it failed state inspection due to an inop parking brake. I replaced the intermediate and both right and left rear cables, the cable that goes from the pedal to the adjuster that splits to the two rear cables was fine. I then adjusted both wheel cylinder things after cleaning and re-lubricating them until the rotors went on, but were snug. I then tested the truck while it was up in the air on stands, and couldn't move the wheels by hand. The parking brake would go all the way down with ease though. I then tried to use the parking brake on the truck with it in gear. I would not hold. I attempted to replace the shoes on both sides, however there was not much more material on the new shoes than there was on the old ones. Interestingly, with the adjuster turned as far in as they would go, I could not get the rotors over the new shoes at all. I unhooked the cables completely, still nothing I tried would get them on, including pounding them with a dead blow, and threading on a nut to the stud to help push them on. One I got about halfway on using the nut on the stud trick, but the rotor wouldn't rotate at all. I removed these, cleaned the old shoes well, and replaced them figuring the new ones must have been out of spec. I once again re-adjusted the wheel cylinder things, put the truck back on the ground, and still had no improvement. I also tried "resetting" the pedal by pulling the cable and doing the inserting a screwdriver in the hole in the pedal, removing the screwdriver and pumping the brake pedal 3 times. No improvement. The inspector still will not pass the truck. I'm getting to be at my whit's end. There is no adjuster on the pedal itself that I can see. I have turned the actual intermediate cable adjuster as far as it will go. I don't want to buy new rotors just for a chance that they may be the problem only to find out it's not. I will do it if necessary though.