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Luke Ouellet

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  1. 2021 Sierra AT4 6.2L Looking to get some opinions on my upcoming upgrades to my build and to get some help with value and speaker selection. Just not quite happy with my current system and talked to a few folks about DSP value in a 4 channel, passive system - I personally don't think it's worth the complexity but I am still open minded to discussion. Not an expert by any means. First real serious build as an adult. Going with an MTI Sealed Stage 1 sub enclosure with a cubby for the amp and crossovers mounting - if I swap subs. 1 sub with cubby cause I am trying to not tear apart my company truck too much more haha. Already went from the 8" JL Microsub to the 10" version which does much better but still missing those deep lows and feeling like it's always pushing itself to its limits (without having a better way of stating that haha). Trying to decide whether I head into the JL C2 or Audiofrog GS Series as they both seem to be significant clarity upgrades to my Infinity's. My "returns" assume I am getting money back for amp, front speakers and sub (depending on the build). Rear speakers are discontinued and I doubt I can return them to Cutchfield
  2. This is my recent convo with AudioControl. Still waiting on my LLJ Harness to finish my install but hope this helps as the LC4.800 I have has an LC7i "built in" Message to AC: Hi there, Been diving into videos, threads and loads of reviews for putting together my humble build for my 2021 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab AT4, non-Bose. I was hoping to get some help on summing, Accubass and hopefully an opinion on crossover freq. My set up is as follows: Audio Control LC4.800 Amp Infinity Reference REF-9630cx, 6x9 components, front door/dash tweeter Infinity Kappa 62ix, 6 1/2s coaxial, rear door JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3, powered 8 inch subwoofer LLJ Customs Loopback Harness Boatload of Dynamat My questions are: 1 - Would you recommend summing the inputs or keeping them separate? Does turning summing on prevent the ability to use balance left/right/front/back? AC: Thank you for contacting AudioControl. The one thing worth knowing in this setup is that summing would remove your ability to fade between front and rear, but maintain your ability to balance from left to right. 2 - Accubass - Would you recommend using Accubass for both channels? Or one of them? Or none, since I am using a sub? AC: My recommendation is to start with your front signal in the Front input, and rear signal in the Rear input, with no summing and with AccuBass turned off. By default, the Line Output you use to send signal to the sub amp is listening to the Front input signal, and you can adjust AccuBass for this output even when the switches are set to "disable." Test this out and see if the signal sounds the way you hope it would, and that the sub is playing all the low frequencies. If it sounds good -- perfect, you're done! If it seems like something is missing, try swapping the front and rear inputs on the amp and see if that resolves the problem. If it's still not sounding right, turn the Front/Rear Bus Sum on, and that should get things sounding good. 3 - I am planning to set my 6x9s at 60 hz (high pass), my 6 1/2s at 70 hz (high pass) and my sub 80 hz (low pass) for crossovers. Am I too all over the place or is this something I should tune by ear? Do these numbers look ok? AC: With regard to the crossovers, systems are conventionally set up with the door Highpass set to match the sub Lowpass. For example, if your door is going to play 70 Hz and up, the subwoofer should play 70Hz and below. That being said, if it doesn't sound right to your ear, you can certainly set the crossovers the way you suggested. In fact, your idea for the crossover is very similar to how I have it set up in my car. I think little bit of overlap on the low end really improves the listening experience.
  3. 2021 Satin Steel Metallic AT4, 6.2L 20x9 +19 offset Fuel Vector Wheels 275/60R20 Michelin Defender LTX M/S CarbonPro Black Emblems (have black illuminated emblem and black rear emblem now) Black Factory Exhaust Tips OEM High Clearance Off Road Running Boards S&B CAI, Pulsar LT, 1300W Infiniti/JL Audio Sound System Waiting for my headache rack and Borla Black Chrome Touring Exhaust to come in Love the street friendly but still aggressive look that the wheels/tires create.
  4. I was quite literally you a few weeks ago. Bought a 2021 AT4 that the dealer had premade and knew it was coming with a bone stock non-Bose 8" system. I knew I was going to pursue an audio upgrade. CT Chevy is spot on - LLJ Customs has been amazing and I don't even have my harness shipped yet (just ordered a couple weeks ago). I have asked them dozens of questions and gotten a ton of detailed responses. Get yourself their "Loopback Elite Harness" - lets you plug and play under the glove compartment, feed your inputs to your LC7i then out to your 4 channel and mono. Only need to run your power and harness to your amp mounting location, super super approachable. Only thing you need to determine is the clip colors going into your radio module under your glove compartment - check their website out for this. https://lljcustoms.com/collections/chevy-gmc-cadillac/EHSGM I also recommend adding the component option to the harness which lets you keep your crossovers with your amps instead of in the doors. I am running a LC4.800 (aka a LC7i with a 4 channel amp as one piece), then a JL Audio 8" micro-powered sub and Infiniti Reference 6x9 Components in the front door/dash and Infiniti Kappa 6 1/2's in the rear doors. The LLJ Customs team basically walked me through the entire install via some questions. Check out the video below to explain the harnesses. Their channel also has an install video for an amp into 2019 Trail Boss that helped me a ton.
  5. Hey there - just installed my S&B last night and did my Pulsar last week knowing I was going eventually get my S&B. I routed the Pulsar wire under the cross brace and used some VHB locking velco on my Pulsar and its quite rugged and clean. Use a couple zip ties to keep things clear from coolant lines and you are set. The bracket that comes with the pulsar can still be placed on the stud bolt BEFORE you put the S&B air box in your truck. Then use the flange nut to secure the airbox and bracket together. This should make sense when you go to install them. Hope this helps!
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