Kaylan Steen

Mine is still going

Not sure, but it's worth a try. All I've seen have been '22 model that has around 2500 miles or so.

Do a slight twist, or slightly bend the spades in the opposite direction of the other. There are 3 spades, so the goal is to make it fill the gap tightly in the block. When pulling the fuse, leave it out for a few minutes as well.

Cool...literally! Lol I hope that helps! Keep me posted.

Awesome to hear! Fingers crossed that it continues! I've not had a single issue since doing it, so I hope you have the same results.

Well, if the mold that they used for the fuse block was off by a mm or so, it can happen. Especially, in colder climates, which make metal contract and some plastics. So, it makes sense to me. I won't be shocked to see a recall for a fix for it. I live in Las Vegas, so I hear you about the heat. A few times this summer the temps said 120. That wasn't the actual temp, but that's the reading. The temps drop to the 70s at night, so that type of bounce isn't a positive if the tolerance in gaps aren't spot on. Let me know how the heat sink works. I've not had a single issue since I tweaked the fuse. Yes, I'm bragging.

Well, if the mold that they used for the fuse block was off by a mm or so, it can happen. Especially, in colder climates, which make metal contract and some plastics. So, it makes sense to me. I won't be shocked to see a recall for a fix for it.

Did you bend them, or slightly twist? I did a slight twist so they're making tight connection on both sides. You can also try and put electrical grease on them as well. It's worth the the effort. I still haven't had issues since I've done mine.

Yep, and made a trip from Las Vegas to San Fran, and back without a hiccup. Went from 100 degree temps to 50s too. That says a lot right there!

LOL... listen, I've not had an issue for nearly 2 months now. Fingers crossed!

Open the fuse block and remove the #11 fuse. It's a 10 amp fuse (red one). Leave it out foe a few minutes and bend the spades slightly to make better contact. The truck should be off. Try that, in most cases, it's been the fuse. I took mine to the dealer and they outright lied about it, which was verified by GM and Onstar. I was a GM employee at the Arlington plant for 30 years, so I don't trust dealers much. Mine did the same thing the day after I got it back, so I pulled it myself and tightened the fit. I've not had an issue since and it's been over 2 weeks now.

Yeah, thats different than mine. My forward collision wasn't the first thing, it was lane assist. The next day was the collision, and by 3rd day cruise control was out. I've not had any issues after I tweaked the fuse and reset. You could also take the battery cables off for 10 minutes and it should reset the ECM before you haul it up to the dealer. Worth a shot to avoid the aggravation.

The truck needs to be off before you pull the fuse.

Most of us have less than 5k on the trucks. Hopefully, yours was that issue, but after my experience with jeep wrangler ruby, I don't trust the dealerships. All that Jeep needed was a software update. The lead mechanic told me that they are forced by the dealer to do repairs to placate the customer to show that they were "trying" to fix the issue until a update was pushed, and they made thousands off of doing needless repairs. They make money off repairs, including warranty. There's another thread here that had the camera replaced and it lasted a few days, then did the same thing. I don't mean to be a Debbie downer, but I want you to be as informed and educated as possible. Good luck to you!

So, if it worked for a little bit, I would bend the spades slightly, and wait 10 minutes before you reinstall it. That's kind of what happened to me as well, but after bending the spades a bit, I've not had an issue at all. Worth a try, either way, this is proving to be an electrical issue. So, fuse blocked and/or wiring harness. If it's wiring harness, that's going to be awful to try and figure out and repair.

That's awesome! I will add, location temps and humidity will play a part as well.

Mine has been working for a few weeks after I bent the fuse spades a tiny bit to ensure a snug fit. We took a trip from Las Vegas to San Francisco this Last week. There was a huge gap in temps. This is my theory: The fuse block has a defect in the space tolerance, which means that the natural expansion and contraction would cause it to throw the code. Here in Vegas, we have high temps during the day and a 20+ degree drop during the night. With the drop, the metal contracts and loses contact, resulting in the code. It always happens during the night. It's never gone out while driving, or during the higher day temps. With my trip, the highest temps last week in San Fran were in the 60s, and we drove straight through to Las Vegas. Everythingis still working fine. That's my 2 cents worth!

Keep us posted!

Pull it and prior to putting it back, slightly bend 2 of the 3 spades so it makes a tight fit. The metal expands with heat and contracts with cooler temps. I think this is what's causing the issue.

From the experience of others on this post, it continues to happen. At the moment, there isn't a recall for the fuse block, which is what I believe to be the issue. After tweeking the a couple of the spades on the fuse itself, I've not experiences any issues. It happened 3 times prior and one of those times was just a day out of the shop. I'm not going to allow them to replace anything until we get the missing chips. They get paid by GM every time you take it in. Doesn't matter if it fixes anything or not. Even the guy you check in with at the dealer makes commissions from it. Don't trust them at all!

That I don't know, but I don't have a lot of confidence in mechanic's. They'll say anything to get your business.

Amazon sells them and it connects via Bluetooth to your cellphone. You just download the app, which is free. Works great! I've had it for several years.

The second time it happened was just a day after I got it back. When I pulled the fuse, I can see tool marks on the fuse spade, so it had been pulled a few times before I looked at it. And yes, it can be the fuse. If the space tolerances are off, it will briefly lose power to those devices and throw a code. By pulling the fuse and repeating, you're essentially resetting the devices and clearing the code. I have a code reader and can see there are no codes. If the camera is defective, it wouldn't work intermittently, unless it's losing power. As far as the dealership is concerned, never trust these people. I had a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Ruby that would throw a check engine code if you were on a steep incline traveling at a 65 mph and it pops into passing gear. Long story short, they replaced the heads on the jeep and did a few other things that was simply absurd. I spoke with the mechanic and asked why would he do all that work, when it's nothing more than the ECM that needs a software update. He said that Chrysler, who owned Jeepbat that time, instructed them to do work sobthat the customer would think they were at least doing something. My grandfather was a master mechanic for Ford, so these are tactics used to make the customer happy to a certain extent. Don't trust these guys, they get paid every time you bring the truck in and make money off warranties. I'm about to make another trip to San Francisco, so if something happenes, it'll happen on this trip.

This is my theory on this issue. The fuse box is out of its tolerance specs, so the fuse is loose. I took the fuse and slightly bent the spades just enough to keep the fuse tight in the box. I've not had an issue at all since doing that. I also just got back from a small strip out of town and didn't have an issue. So, I might be onto something with the tolerances being off within the fuse box itself. Time will tell!

Good luck! I've not had any issues since I bent one of the spades a little to make it a tighter fit.