Kaylan Steen

Reseat the #15 fuse and use some silicone grease. This usually happens in colder weather as metal contracts in colder temps and doesn't make good contact. If you go back in this thread, I took and twisted the spades on the fuse about 5 degrees so that it makes better contact with the contacts within the fuse box. If you still have issues, you can reset the fuse by pulling the battery cables off and touching the negative to the positive terminal so that it clears the remaining electrical charge from the system. Leave the cables off for about 10 min before putting them back on.

Sorry, off to the dealership you go! Good luck; they're pretty shady most of the time.

I wanted to add one more thing. When you take both terminals off, tie the negative terminal to the positive terminal of the truck to completely drain any residual charge in the ECM's capacitors. This is what you're draining when you turn the headlights on or depress the breaks. Otherwise, you're just spinning your wheels per se.

It's a possibility, but you need to replace the fuse with a new one and add a little electrical grease to the spade to ensure good contact. It's possible the front collision camera went out if it had a direct short. But I say that's unlikely give that everyone else in this thread has had success with the fuse fix. I would try taking both positive and negative terminals off the battery and let it sit for at least 15 min. Don't forget to get a new fuse and put a light amount of electrical grease on it.

So, the system will have a certain amount of electrical current after disconnecting the battery. If you leave a circuit closed that consumes power, then it drains any residual current left, if any. Don't worry about the lights; just follow the instructions as directed and do not dwell on anything else. It's like a computer, you have to discharge any residual electricity before you start working on it so you don't accidentally fry something inadvertently.

You disconnect the battery cable as directed and leave it off as directed. This has nothing to do with your headlights. Nothing will work, as you're disconnecting your power source.

You'll need to reset the ecm. Remove the negative terminal from Your battery. You will need to use a socket wrench to do this. Next, flip Your headlights on. This will fully drain the computer, or ECM. Wait for around 10 to 15 minutes. Then, turn the headlights off, and reconnect the negative terminal to Your battery. Start Your engine, and the computer should be reset. You may have a faulty fuse too. Sometimes, they won't look tripped, or damaged in any way. You can also add a little electrical grease to it as well.

Just FYI, it has nothing to do with any of the cameras.

It's the F10 fuse that isn't making good contact. Tweak the spades just a tiny bit, wait 10 min, and reinstall. That's what fixed mine permanently. When temps change, the fuse will not make good contact, so doing a slight twist will help to keep it tight.

Good to hear that it worked on the new truck too. I sold mine a week ago. I'm going into freight hauling, so I bought 2 Ford Transits over the last few weeks. I signed a contract with a company and didn't need the truck. It only had 9k miles on it. I'm just glad my little fix is still going strong!

Glad to hear it worked!

That's not how a 3 spade fuse works. The Micro 3 Fuse is designed to protect 2 different output circuits from a single power source. Power flows into the fuse via the middle prong and out via the 2 outside prongs. Only the middle spade is the power source, so you should only see voltage on the middle. A fuse is only as good as the system in which it is used. One aspect of the electrical system that has considerable effects on the performance of the fuse is the quality of the connection between the fuse and the cable it protects. If you don't have continuity between the power supply and circuit it feeds it will not work. All you have to do is test the middle spade. The only true test is the readings at the end of the circuit which would be at the ecm. The ecm is what controls work properly. Hope I explained that well!

Same exact scenario for us as well. I've only had 2 issues; once at 1200+ miles and another when the temps dropped below freezing. This last time it wouldn't reset, so I applied silicone greese to the fuse and it fixed it. So, you can try that as well. You can also disconnect the battery cables for about ten minutes to clear the ecm. I've also stated that it can also be a issue with the missing chips, which could be causing this intermittent problems. But I still believe this is a problem with the spacial tolerance in this particular fuse.

Read the thread, it's a simple fix you can do in less than 10 min. It's not hard, and it has nothing to do with your camera! The dealership is taking the warranty money they make and not addressing the real problem. It's the spacial tolerances of the fuse block. They're slightly off, and may be addressed later on. It's not a safety concern, so they're not addressing it right away.

100% fix and a little over 7000 miles now, no issues. These guys are just handing over the dollars to dealerships and they're laughing all the way to the bank.

It makes me wonder if the reset issue could be connected to the missing chips? I'm missing the ones for the heated seats and steering wheel. We know they're typically tied in to the loop electronically. It's a theory, but im not equipped, nor have the time to figure it out. As far as I'm concerned, it worked and is just a minor inconvenience. It's only happened 3 time total. First time I took it to the dealer, it happened again just one day later. The dealer lied to me about the reason, as verified by Onstar. That's when I decided to do things my way. It worked and I've only had the one issue. I blamed it on temps, but the commonality here is prolonged vibration during g a trip. This would still point to what I've been saying all along, that its a problem with the fuse block itself. It would be easy addressed when we get the recalls foe the chips. It wouldn't be hard to make a spacer to go into that slot.

Thank you! I do want to add that my theory was correct. As soon as the temps dropped to freezing, I had the same issue. I pulled the fuse and tweeked the spades a little more than I had and sprayed them with silicone grease. Worked like a charm and no problems to date. That's what I predicted would happen. Validation is wonderful! Hope you guys had a great holiday!

Thanks for validating the issue. I've not had a problem with mine since I figured it all out a couple days after the misinformation from the dealership. All they want is the money they receive for warranty work. It's a lucrative business.

I'm happy that it worked for you. I'm at over 4000 miles and haven't had an issue since. GM isn't going to take responsibility for this issue until an engineer determines what the issue is and finds a "fix" for this. What will probably happen, when they're good and ready, is a massive recall on the fuse block, or they will just wait until they push the massive micro chip recall for the heated seats and fix the fuse block. It wouldn't be hard to pull the battery cables and adjust The contacts on the block for that fuse. Until then, they are wasting money and time over something so simple. To be honest, it's the dealers who are doing this. They are always doing unnecessary repairs. They need to stop paying commission to these mechanics and service professionals. Pay them a living wage, so they aren't inclined to do unnecessary work that inconveniences the customers! So, I would lay blame mostly on these dealership! It's all about the money and nothing about the customer.

Only if pulling the fuse doesn't reset the fault in the ECM. Making the fuse fit snuggly in the fuse block is the priority

If you look back in the thread, it's typically the fuse that's not making consistent contact within the fuse block. If you take the spades on the fuse and do a slight twist, it should make significant contact. Sometimes, the code won't clear. In this case, you'll want to disconnect the battery cables for 10 minutes to allow the energy to discharge. Since reseating the fuse, I've not had one issue since. It's not a software issue and in most cases, not a equipment issue. This more of a fuse block that's toleraces are slightly off. Hope this helps!

I took it in at about 1250 miles and now have about 3600 with no issues. We've bounced around temps and humid weather due to Monsoon season, and still no issues. Today, it was 3 digit temps with the thermometer reading 125 sitting in the sun. It wasn't that hot, but it was in direct sun all day. Still no issues, so I'm waiting to see what the cooler temps bring, which will make the metal contract and cause the gaps in the fuse block to open up. If I get the same issue with a major temp drop, then I'll know that the issue lies within the block. I'm almost certain it's that anyways, which would explain the intermittent issues. We'll see... it could also be a connector close to the block that is bad as well. Time will only tell!

Luckily, I've not had any issues since I addressed the fuse situation. Now that I've said it... LOL

I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to get a small twist on mine because there are 3 spades on the fuse. I can control how much I twist with the pliers rather than my hands. It's not required though.

You might have to pull the battery cables to do a hard reset on the ecm to clear the code. You can Google how you do it to drain all the energy from the truck before replacing the cables. Make sure you do a slight twist on the spades so they make tight contact with the connectors in the fuse block. Hope that helps