Kaylan Steen

Reseat the #15 fuse and use some silicone grease. This usually happens in colder weather as metal contracts in colder temps and doesn't make good contact. If you go back in this thread, I took and twisted the spades on the fuse about 5 degrees so that it makes better contact with the contacts within the fuse box. If you still have issues, you can reset the fuse by pulling the battery cables off and touching the negative to the positive terminal so that it clears the remaining electrical charge from the system. Leave the cables off for about 10 min before putting them back on.

Sorry, off to the dealership you go! Good luck; they're pretty shady most of the time.

I wanted to add one more thing. When you take both terminals off, tie the negative terminal to the positive terminal of the truck to completely drain any residual charge in the ECM's capacitors. This is what you're draining when you turn the headlights on or depress the breaks. Otherwise, you're just spinning your wheels per se.

It's a possibility, but you need to replace the fuse with a new one and add a little electrical grease to the spade to ensure good contact. It's possible the front collision camera went out if it had a direct short. But I say that's unlikely give that everyone else in this thread has had success with the fuse fix. I would try taking both positive and negative terminals off the battery and let it sit for at least 15 min. Don't forget to get a new fuse and put a light amount of electrical grease on it.

So, the system will have a certain amount of electrical current after disconnecting the battery. If you leave a circuit closed that consumes power, then it drains any residual current left, if any. Don't worry about the lights; just follow the instructions as directed and do not dwell on anything else. It's like a computer, you have to discharge any residual electricity before you start working on it so you don't accidentally fry something inadvertently.

You disconnect the battery cable as directed and leave it off as directed. This has nothing to do with your headlights. Nothing will work, as you're disconnecting your power source.

You'll need to reset the ecm. Remove the negative terminal from Your battery. You will need to use a socket wrench to do this. Next, flip Your headlights on. This will fully drain the computer, or ECM. Wait for around 10 to 15 minutes. Then, turn the headlights off, and reconnect the negative terminal to Your battery. Start Your engine, and the computer should be reset. You may have a faulty fuse too. Sometimes, they won't look tripped, or damaged in any way. You can also add a little electrical grease to it as well.

Just FYI, it has nothing to do with any of the cameras.

It's the F10 fuse that isn't making good contact. Tweak the spades just a tiny bit, wait 10 min, and reinstall. That's what fixed mine permanently. When temps change, the fuse will not make good contact, so doing a slight twist will help to keep it tight.

Good to hear that it worked on the new truck too. I sold mine a week ago. I'm going into freight hauling, so I bought 2 Ford Transits over the last few weeks. I signed a contract with a company and didn't need the truck. It only had 9k miles on it. I'm just glad my little fix is still going strong!

Glad to hear it worked!

That's not how a 3 spade fuse works. The Micro 3 Fuse is designed to protect 2 different output circuits from a single power source. Power flows into the fuse via the middle prong and out via the 2 outside prongs. Only the middle spade is the power source, so you should only see voltage on the middle. A fuse is only as good as the system in which it is used. One aspect of the electrical system that has considerable effects on the performance of the fuse is the quality of the connection between the fuse and the cable it protects. If you don't have continuity between the power supply and circuit it feeds it will not work. All you have to do is test the middle spade. The only true test is the readings at the end of the circuit which would be at the ecm. The ecm is what controls work properly. Hope I explained that well!

Same exact scenario for us as well. I've only had 2 issues; once at 1200+ miles and another when the temps dropped below freezing. This last time it wouldn't reset, so I applied silicone greese to the fuse and it fixed it. So, you can try that as well. You can also disconnect the battery cables for about ten minutes to clear the ecm. I've also stated that it can also be a issue with the missing chips, which could be causing this intermittent problems. But I still believe this is a problem with the spacial tolerance in this particular fuse.

Read the thread, it's a simple fix you can do in less than 10 min. It's not hard, and it has nothing to do with your camera! The dealership is taking the warranty money they make and not addressing the real problem. It's the spacial tolerances of the fuse block. They're slightly off, and may be addressed later on. It's not a safety concern, so they're not addressing it right away.

100% fix and a little over 7000 miles now, no issues. These guys are just handing over the dollars to dealerships and they're laughing all the way to the bank.