Does that thing have it's own drone following it around to get all those camera angles?
I noticed the paint cracking a couple months ago, I'm not certain when it started. I had taken are really good look at them since a couple months after I painted them and thought I was in the clear. Noticed it one day in late August or early September when I was waxing it. I suspect I didn't get enough of the chrome off before painting as I was very careful about the primer, paint. clear. I will try again at some point, probably not until next summer now. But I will sand off all the chrome completely before I try it. I have been trying to find a part number for the black "WT" trim but all I can find is the part number for the complete housing. They would be an ideal way to start since they have no chrome on them. But I'm not going to spend that much for just a trim ring. Before I put them back on the truck I wrote down every number I could find on the trim itself but none of them yielded anything in searches. If anyone has or can direct me to where I can get the part number for the black trim I'd greatly appreciate it.
Integrated into the bumper like that I can't help but think that dual exhaust will be a high trim level only thing.
IMO the mirrors are one of the hideous parts. Not a fan of mirrors on the door panels. Agreed. I'm waiting to see the front end with all the camo removed. But I haven't seen anything yet that would compel me to trade in my 2015 for one. Have there been any good interior pics?
It's only been a couple months but those months have been December, January and February in Massachusetts. They've been through the car wash(no touch) at least a half dozen times and been peppered with sand and salt on the highway pretty much every day. I'm going to run it through a car wash tonight and I'll take a good look at them and post an assessment of their condition.
I got the paint in a rattle can from automotivetouchup.com. I used Duplicolor grey primer, Duplicolor lacquer clear, and Dupilicolor acrylic enamel clear you can get at any auto parts store. One can of each is plenty. I sanded off most of the "chrome" before priming. I put 2 light coats and one "wet" coat of base coat(color) as the can directed. I put 3 coats of lacquer clear and then 3 coats of acrylic enamel clear. I then let them cure for 3 weeks before putting them on the truck so that the paint was hard enough to handle most road debris and so I wouldn't chip it while reassembling them to the housings. I hung the parts in my garage from bungee cords to spray them. FYI - wear a respirator. And do not do it in any space where the fumes can get into your house. The paint smells REALLY bad. And you can spray enamel over lacquer but you cannot spray lacquer over enamel.
Here are mine after I color matched them. Sorry for the crummy shots, the weather is terrible here in MA today. And here's a quick how-to on removing the bezel/trim ring. Here's what you will need for tools. A couple different size regular screw drivers and a T20 torx driver. Take off this plastic bracket off the bottom using the torx driver. There's a total of 6 tabs holding the bezel on the housing. 2 on top, 2 on the bottom, and 2 on the the inside edge. The edge that meets the grill, not the fender. The fender side has tabs that go into slots but they don't clip in, they will act more like a hinge. Carefully pry the tabs away from where they catch and shove one of the plastic cards in the gap so that the tab can slide along the card and not re-catch. Once you have cards in all 6 clips stand the housing on the outside edge. So the edge that meets the grill should be up. Carefully pry from the grill edge down. Start in the middle and go very slowly. I used plastic pry tools for popping interior fittings out I also used a plastic putty knife to "cut" the double stick tape. Don't get frustrated if you accidentally lose one or some of the cards and the clips re-catch. Just pry the tabs out carefully and put the cards back. It takes a little practice. Do not pull on any of the clear plastic loops/tabs. They are brittle and will break. Make sure the room is quiet because as you slowly pry you will hear the tape start to slowly let go. Let it slowly pull itself loose and don't try to rush it. Here I taped it in place to give an idea how it swings out as the tape lets go. The black strip in the middle is held on with 2-sided tape and 6 clips. I just used a regular screw driver to break the tape and I pushed the clips/tabs through with my thumbs.
I made my appointment for tomorrow a few minutes ago. They told me it takes about 30 minutes.
I keep hearing this but I can't find anything confirming that the beds will be aluminum. I hope that at least the bed floors will still be steel.
Assuming the bed liner would solve the puncture problem, I don't think Ford salesmen are going to want to point out how easily their beds are punctured if you don't buy an expensive bed liner. I also couldn't help but think that the way that the aluminum bed also cracks around the punctures that with vibration and further abuse those cracks are going to expand.
I found a way to get the USB ports at the front of the console to work(charge only) without disconnecting the ones inside the console. There is a brown USB connector on the front of the radio behind the screen. I modified cable P/N 19303285 to fit the socket on the console. I shaved off the corner of the black end to make it fit the socket on the console top USB port.
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