Everything posted by Elbert
have only notice one 3500 17 dmax and no 17 2500 so far in the small town i'm in, hate to wait myself for an extended period where i'm told the truck is built/complte but not yet shipped. I think the general dealer orders hit the lots first thought...
some of the "nurf bars" will conceal the DEF tank, but I too don't care for the way it looks or the location. Seems like it could be moved back under the bed without too much heartburn, don't know if GM has even given that any consideration. Would be a great day if GM and the others could figure out how to run a "clean" diesel without the DEF.
consider different vehicle add a good bit of weight to bed for winter driving consider dedicated set of winter wheels with snow/winter tires give others plenty of room slow down add posi traction unit to rear axle learn about chains/cables when needed understand what you may can drive or slide down, you may have no chance in $ell of driving back up or out of. A 2wd drive pickup with no other changes is not the best of the reard wheel two wheel drives becuase of the lack of weight on the rear axle and the resulting poor traction.
I don't think there are any unique issues that I'm aware of, in the old days only GM had the specific fluid for the transfer case...that may have changed and may be dependent on if you have manual or auto transfercase (if 4wd).
Well not long ago I bought a kind of plain jane truck off the lot. 2016 2500HD WT / crew with standard bed. So what I've done so far (I'll come back and add PN's if anyone the same thing), all the things I've done so far have worked well and I like them. Husky front and rear floor mats Husky rear underseat storage GM skid plates (came with the required hardware) weather guard tool box thin rubber bed mat GM rear wheel linners (came with the required hardware) used polished aluminum wheels off LT truck (GM) Michelin LTX tires soon will add pickup bed light kit (GM) some additional tie-downs for the bed. Have been looking for options on the crappy I0B radio, to swap a batter GM radio, but thats not available anywhere that I've come across. Appears at present time you live with the factory crappy radio or go aftermarket. I've contemplated a "leveling Kit' for the front but have not done anything on that, and have concerns. I do like the look of the unloaded truck sitting level, but wonder about it loaded and or setup with a heavy trialer (with leveling kit on front).
discounting the debate about how you got the truck level....for those who tow with their 2500HD...and you have it sitting somewhat level...what happens when you connect your loaded trailer with respect to the right height level of the pickup? Assumed truck otherwise stock. DO you now have a truck that runs down the road with the rear sitting low with respect to the front.
from the internet no-one can say what happened. Nor can anyone reasonably infer you are getting ripped off on the fact the radiator may need replacement from unrelated damage related to the wiring repair. The engine compartment is not a sealed unit. I would have wanted to see the radiator first hand before agreeing to the repair but likely its a $&^%$ happens kind of thing. Likely you could have saved a good bit of money swapping out the radiator yourself but sometimes that may not be an option. Radiators do get damaged on the rear side at times but thats unusual, most are caused by the fan or fan clutch coming apart and then getting into the radiator. I would not install an aftermarket radiator in a new truck, you can find places on the web that sale new for reasoanble...but thats after the fact at this point. ** if the radiator or related parts had to be removed to fix the wiring issue you noted, then different story....
probably the best aftermarket setup out there, but if I had OEM setup on GM pickup I would stay with that.
OEM works better than the aftermarket stuff I've used previously.... its been my experience that you set it and forget it. no issues on my 14 and 16 year model pickups using the OEM trailer brake setup.
I have a 2016 2500HD with the I0B (basic radio), but it does have factory backup camera. Anyway I've been surfing the net for some time....have not come across any OEM upgrade options for this specific setup which is base radio with 7 inch screen. Seems you may be stuck with this radio for life or have to go aftermarket.
a cooler thermostat is not going to make much difference with on the road temps in the summer time with the a/c going..etc (towing). The truck is going to run hotter than 180F anyway. In the winter it might make some difference given the mod to the on/off on the electric fans. Not much gained on modern engine by changing the thermostat to a cooler settting...etc. You would be better served in my view to go with a larger capacity radiator if one was offered for your specific model truck. (Stock engine) Once you exceed the temp of the cooler thermostat...thats it and you are dependeant on the fans and radiator at that point and its going to be very common to be over 180F towing or driving on the road in teh summer with the a/c on. The lower rated thermostat has not positive benefit at that point. In general the a/c will add 10 degrees F to the operating temp of the engine. In the winter the truck most likely will run cooler, but it might screw with your fuel milage too...
old post..but B&W is the way to go....in my view.
I prefer the 4.10, it seems to be a good fit for me. I had an 07 with 3.73 and now have a 2014 with 4.10 both 6.0 gas. I prefer the 4.10, its the best combination for towing and in my view it does not impact fuel milage that much.... I think its the better choice all around. I tow around 10K in weight (trailer + gear + FJ 60).
2014 2500 HD, 4.10, 2wd, stock, 6.0 gas, long bed / reg cab. I tow approx 10K (twin axle metal deck utilitiy style trailer / car hauler) trailer weights 3K, truck I tow weighs appx 6k...plus misc gear. around 9 flat ground....worse in the hills, I generally run 70-75 on the hwy.
I have a 14 2500 HD and the hitch ...but have not installed the hitch yet. Check out the video of the isntall on etrailer.....2500 and 3500 should be about the same.
As noted up around 70/75mph in tow haul mode it will shift into high gear (6th), I' got where I just use normal drive when I'm on the hwy in relatively flat ground (towing)...4.10 R&P 2500HD 6.0 2014
anyone else notice that "grade breaking" on teh gas model trucks seems to be far less effective? On my 07 in tow haul mode the transmission would downshift all teh way down to 2nd dpending on speed under fast stop....on my 14..so far if it shifts down one gear thats...all. 14 truck is new and I've only towed once with it (today)...was not impressed at all with grade breaking in comparison with my 07. 6.0 gas truck, 2500HD. I will say the 07 seemed too aggressive, but the 14 seems to weak... grade breaking to me ...means teh truck in tow haul mode will shift down to the next gear to help control speed on descent or in heavy braking while towing. I was towing about 10K in weight...in tow haul mode....truck might have downshifted one time (the couple of times I tested it) once I noticed it was not near as aggressive as the 07 model truck I had. Anyone know about this? I saw another note where the dealer told some people this is normal. Grade breaking is not to shift down one gear when breaking from 70mph down to say 30mph...in a short distance.
I noticed exactly the same thing....difference in grade braking from my 07 2500HD in tow/haul mode vs. my 2014 2500 HD. 07 very aggressive and really would wind out the truck.....2014 hardly noticeable. Just recently bought the 14 and have less than 2k miles. We don't have any real serious long decents around where I live but I did notice on some of teh short descents when I purposeoly applied teh brakes hard on descent in tow haul mode (towing about 10K) the truck just downshifted one time, not even close to how the 07 would downshift. The entire purpose of grade braking was to have that being an automatic function... Was looking around the web on the subject tonight. Downshitting one gear on a aggresive stop from 70mph to savy 35mph in a fairly steep hill while towing is not grade breaking in my book.
From what I was told... the dmax has larger rear axle in the SRW 3500 and 2500 trucks. I don't know if there is only one choice with the dual tire axle on the 3500. (Just going off of what I was told...)
well I made my call.. bought a 14 reg cab 2500 HD 6.0 gas with 4.10. 2wd this time though. I like the 4.10 and I would recomend that you go with a 4.10 if you do any serious towing, I also got a long bed so I could get the larger fuel tank. Not a lot of differnece between my 07 and the 14 for the most part. I'm told that the only real difference between the 2500 and 3500 trucks are the rear springs like some mentioned...other than that about the same ruck all the way around....with the obvioius difference being a 3500 with the dual tire rear end. Most drivetrain componets are identical...between the two.
this may be old news but anyway. I've read that if you are in the neighborhood of 13K total weight at the trailer....go gooseneck or 5th wheel. I like gooseneck if that's in your projected weight range. I believe 5th wheel is the max setup for heavy.
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