Check the A/C clutch. I have an older truck but I had the same thing happen. The noise sounded like it was coming from the alternator or the idler pulley but once I pulled the smaller belt off the A/C, no more noise. Other things it could be would be the PS pump or the idler pulley as those are the only other two you haven't touched. One would think if it was something internal that by now you would have some severe problems.
Since you mentioned how it shifts when it's warm, and how the RPMs don't drop when it shifts, etc I am wondering if maybe it actually isn't a trans problem with a solenoid or a converter or something. The fluid will act differently when cold than when it is warm or hot. I only mention this because I had a 1996 4.3 S-10 which had what felt like stumbling, hesitation, shudder when I hit the gas, you name it. Turned out to be the damn center support bearing and had nothing to do with the engine or any of the sensors people kept suggesting.
if you can get one of the bolts out, you can rotate the caliper up and away from the pads, then slide it off the bolt all without removing the second bolt. I too have a torx bolt which stripped and did not come loose. When i do the pads on that side I simply remove one of the pins. Im sure one day I'll actually get an appropriate extractor and do it right. i may wind up replacing the caliper by then, who knows. FWIW OE was the torx and aftermarket replacements are the normal hex head.
I posted this in the 99-06 area but didn't get much help. hoping someone can assure me or point me in a new direction. here are the original posts. Thank you! truck is a 2004 Sierra 2WD step side extended cab with the 5.3 T Vin and 204,000 miles on it. A question was then asked of what data was I getting. From the freeze frame data available through my Innova tool... And my last post in the thread said So what I've done is change the MAF sensor and cleaned it. At the same time I made sure the intake from filter box to throttle body was clean and well tightened. I also tried to make sure the intake bolts were tightened to spec, and in the process I found one was between 1/2 and 1 turn loose. Once I did that last bit of work, the STFT stays under 10% and actually hovers around 0, give or take 5%. the LTFT on both banks though sit near zero at idle, but as soon as i give it any throttle, the trims shoot to 17% almost instantly. the STFT does stay near the same however, even with partial throttle. Also, the 0171 and 0174 codes did not reset in the couple trips I made, but the 0101 code did reset almost immediately. I've since had to pull the battery and charge it as there is a wiring issue which drains the battery if not used every few days. have not driven it in 2 weeks now. I bought a new set of FelPro intake gaskets and plan on doing the intake this weekend. As I don't have access to a smoke machine I am flying blind based on what I have read and watched on line. I tried pouring water around the edges of the intake with no noticable change in idle condition as one may expect if there was a bad leak. A local shop can hook up the smoke machine and test for $100, but before I spend that $100+ I want to be sure I have exhausted all my options that I can check myself. If anyone can recommend a couple more checks i would very much appreciate it. I am sure you have all witnessed this trouble before and can say with probably 90% accuracy what the problem is, but I need the vote of confidence.
Changed out the MAF to one I had in the garage from when I had a K&N intake on the truck. After the change, the LTFT numbers were better, in the -% range, but as soon as I touched the gas to move, the LTFT numbers would go to 17% instantly. I've made sure the intake is on good and tight, so I'm not sure what else could be causing my issues besides manifold gasket issue??
Yeah I've actually taken a file and or grinder to the tabs on the pads to get them to slide in the clips easier. I finally gave up and just took them out and so far (driving it 5 times) I have noticed no extra heat from the right rear as I had before. It would get so bad that the aluminum rim was hot to the touch. Now its not even warm and feels the same as the left side. The pads I have are the duralast gold and they have a pad on the backside. The caliper also has the spring clip that holds the pads down, so even with the clips on the side missing, there is very little chance for a rattle. Though with the truck being 12 years old with 204,000 miles on it, a rattle is the last of my worries.
According to the freeze frame data on the most recent code reset the values are as follows; load 14.1 ECT (F) 87 STFT B1 11.7 LTFT B1 17.1 STFT B2 12.5 LTFT B2 17.9 MAP 19.1 ENG RPM 1819 Veh Speed 24 MAF (lb/min) 4.629 TPS 29.0 I just got back in from giving it a once over. I loosened and then tightened both intake connections after the MAF and at the throttle body. I also took a torque wrench and made sure the bolts were tightened to spec. Three moved maybe an 1/8 turn but one on the passenger side I think maybe bolt #1 turned a good half turn if not a little more before I got the click.I then poured a gatorade bottle full of water all over the intake mounting locations on both sides and the engine didn't so much as stutter once. I started the truck back up and the 0171 and 0174 codes were gone but the 0101 code was still present with the data I just wrote. Went for a 15 minute drive watching the live data. At idle and 550-600 RPM the trims are all at 0 or even in the - range. At throttle/acceleration I watch them go to 20-25 on the LTFT but stay less than 10 on the STFT. Wish I could post a photo of what all the values are but trying to drive and glance at the scanner is hard enough.
A little late, but check to see how tight the pads are in the calipers. For some odd reason, new aftermarket pads fit into those SS pad clips so tight that you need a screwdriver and or hammer to pry them out. Since they don't move and are so tight you get a lot of drag and heat. I have a new right rear caliper on my truck and for some reason that one was dragging and getting hot while the left side was working fine. I pulled the clips out and let the pads sit in the bracket grooves alone and so far it seems like the brakes are working much better, and so far I haven't noticed any brake smell. If the calipers are new then the clips may have enough tolerance, but as soon as you get a little rust or add in the premium pads, the tolerance seem so tight that the clips won't work. I've used a ton of different pads and rotors over my lifetime, but I am absolutely in love with the Autozone rotors that are anodized or coated black. I've had them for a year on my truck so far and there is only a slight amount of surface rust, if any at all on the non machined parts. The pads are also wearing very flat and even, even though the right side was dragging.
Truck is 2004 Sierra 2wd with the 5,3 T engine and 204,000 miles. Prior to this code set I was getting an evap solenoid code of 0446 IIRC. This past weekend I put a $20 Delco evap solenoid on it to see if that would solve my problem so I can get emissions tested. (skipped buying the one with the long hose and filter) Anyway, when I pulled out of the shop I was working in, my CEL illuminated again with the three codes. The freeze frame data showed the fuel trims very high and an engine temp of 143. I plugged in my Innova scanner and went for a couple rides over the next few days and found that when cold, the STFT on both banks were near 10 while the LTFT on both banks would be near 20, bouncing between 10 and 25. When the engine warmed and at idle, the STFT AND LTFT would both be at or near zero. However, when I was driving with a throttle position of between 20 and 35, the LTFT would run between 10 and 19 and the STFT would be below 10. I initially thought based on reading that I had an intake leak, However wouldn't the fuel trims be lower with the engine hot and the engine getting 25% throttle? I just visually checked the intake at the MAF and the throttle body and both connections look well on and very tight. I can also hear my fuel pump whirring away with a strange squeal so I thought that maybe my fuel pressure was low, but when I hooked up my gauge I am getting 55 PSI at key on, and 60PSI at cold start idle. (when the codes have all set for me) I am going to grab a water bottle and squirt some water around the intake to see if any gets drawn in, but aside from an actual intake gasket leak, is there anything else I should check for that could cause all three codes to set at once? I need to get the thing fixed before the end of the month so I can get tested and renew my plates. I want to check everything possible before just trying to throw my time (and money) at the problem. Sorry for the long and maybe confusing post, but I appreciate any help you cal all provide.
My extended cab 04 has anchors in the middle for the car seat and I believe even the higher up anchors for the top of the infant seat. (not 100% sure though) The sides just have the seatbelts which are fine for the booster seats.
Cowpie, you are indeed missing beejay's entire point. You continue to say "go and price a replacement for x unit". Well of course that price is going to be off the charts because it is retail. You can price anything for a gasoline engine and it too would be off the charts. If you took every single part of a car and priced it at retail, a Cruz would cost you $150k!!! I was looking at a car a month back that was a turbo gasoline. Complaints from people about the car were that the turbo is almost always going to go at a given mileage number and that the repair was like $3k. This wasn't even for a diesel either. The point is that the engine and other emission goodies on a mass scale at the manufacturer price level does not cost $4,000 more than a similar equipped gasoline setup. Mind you, we're not talking $4k total at the mfg level, we're talking $4k MORE. Part of that extra amount is no doubt because of the numbers being produced. However, if you offered the consumer the option of the diesel for a grand more or close to the same, they would be flying out of the lots. However,the government taxes diesel fuel higher, which at one time was because it didn't burn clean. If we are to catch up with the rest of the world so to speak, we need to make them more affordable and make the taxes paid less, not more.
Is the engine operating at normal temperature? If yes, then my guess would either be the blend door actuator (you may have more than one) or the controller itself. I'm not familiar with the 08 trucks enough to say any more. Also, double check any procedures you may have been required to do when you changed the coolant. For example, when I replaced my water pump, the instructions specifically said to hold the RPMs at 2k or 2500k for several minutes to make sure any air got bled out of the heating system.
Why would you want to drop the oil pan if it isn't leaking? Same with the transmission. I'd just have a shop use one of their machines on it and hook into the cooler lines. Regarding the rear end and transmission fluids, since you aren't changing them that often, spending a bit more for a quality lubricant seems like a good idea. For your regular oil change, IMHO it is a waste of extra money. You can buy Mobil 1 synthetic at Walmart for $26 a jug. I had been using Quaker State 5-30 synthetic in my 04 but a year back changed to the Mobil 1 0w-30. No change in oil pressure and my truck starts easier and has no more lifter noise when cold.
You have a 26 gallon tank and thought you had 2 gallons left. Even if you reset the trip meter right away there are lots of reasons why you may have gone through those 2 extra gallons. My logic is that if your gauges aren't working right, don't ever get that close to getting screwed. Oh, and yeah just buy the correct sending unit. (need to put one in my truck as well since it will drop from full to half a tank in 100 miles, yet if I add gas, it will take 5-6 gallons)
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