Had the same exact issues on an ‘07 3500....I could clean the sensor and any rust/etc.off the sensor and mounting surface...and it would be good for a short period but return. However I read someone else’s issue and how it was actually also a wheel bearing jusssst starting to go out. I didn’t have any real audible hum or usual sounds though. I suspected it was the driver’s side as that sensor had appeared to have more build up/rust staining and sure enough - I changed it out with a rather inexpensive aftermarket wheel bearing and sensor assembly from Amazon (one with decent reviews) and voila!! Problem has been solved for the last couple months.
I hear you Markmx6 - I know that's the right answer for sure. The joy's of owning an older truck of course, but this way I don't feel so bad when a bang a few trees of her in the bush vs. brand new paint!
Thanks Asilver - I’m 99% that changing the pump will be the solution. I’m now just wondering how much of a gamble it is to continue on doing a double key flip first thing in the morning for a little while. I’ve read that guys have had similar issues for years before there is any real pump failure. But that typically if these types of issues start showing up the pump itself could just take a crap at any time too based on its age. 😒
Hey fellas - think I know my answer but figured it wouldn’t hurt for a second opinion...but recently my ‘06 3500 6.0 sat for a couple days and when I went to start it, burped and didn’t fire. Second key turn it started, stumbled for a couple seconds, then it was fine. The next morning it fired on the first roll but did have the stumble for a second or two - - - so I started thinking fuel pump. However throughout the day it fires up just fine, even after sitting from morning till lunch, etc. So I bought a pressure gauge and got to testing... I’ve got 55psi with key on, not running. Steady 60 psi at idle running. - key off it drops back but holds 55 - after 10-15 mins drops to under 50-48 - hour to two hours drops to 30 - by morning dead 0 I would think it should hold SOME pressure even overnight, so thinking bad check valve or pressure regulator - both of which are in the pump on an ‘06. Maybe draining off enough pressure/fuel overnight that even though it bumps to 55 right off the bat, there could be air or space still in the system at the injectors which is why the initial burp/stumble since it doesn’t last very long at all. - so I’m assuming I’m likely looking at a new pump assembly since with 265km on the clock, even fixing something minor (valve/regulator) would be a bandaid. BUT.... should I also be worried this pump is giving me the telltale “wink” that it could crap out any day/time or could I possibly run it for while doing the double key cycle truck in the morning since that seems to help. Just spent a bunch of $$$$ moving so if this is the only issue I have to deal with for a bit till I can change it out that’s fine, but if the pump is saying “change me now!” So be it I guess. Thanks guys!!
Thanks a lot fellas… I figured it was just since I haven’t been driving it for a while and now I’m only noticing it since my Ford work truck does not do the same type of fluctuation/variation from idle to higher RPM. So it stood out. I also did head gaskets so have been really paying close attention to everything more since
Hey guys - I'm just wondering how high is too high on a GM 6.0 for engine oil pressure. I had the truck down and out for a little while so I wasn't driving it regularly until recently - but I just don't seem to recall the oil pressure fluctuating quite as much as it does now in the past. And maybe it's just because I've been driving it more and watching it a little more closely??? However, I'm typically I'm seeing around 280 KPA at a cold idle/start-up (~ 40 psi) which at a warm idle is down to about 210 KPA (~30psi). At highway speeds warm I'm anywhere from 2200-2800 RPM I can see towards 400-410 KPA (~ 58-60 psi). I've not seen it go above that though. Seem normal or is something seeming a little odd??
Thanks for the reply Davestar - I'll go back and chat more with the tech about what you mentioned above and see what they say or what they can do as well. I may be misinterpreting what he was meaning, since he said he was quite familiar with the issue and given that I haven't been driving it for an extended period with this happening, having clean fluid, and little to no debris on the magnet - he said that it was likely that changing the converter out would be a fair solution. No guarantee......which is still the kicker of course.
Well - the verdict is in. After trying to replace the TCC Solenoid in my transmission to try and solve an Overdrive slippage/non-lock up issue with no change, I had the transmission tech guys come along for a drive with their Tech Scanner...and he's 99.9% that the OD clutch plates have simply run their course. Everything he could view was signalling that the right messages/proper pressure/etc. are being sent and that the transmission is trying everything it can to lock up the converter in OD - but not happening. He also said that it's typically what he's seen and that they may not show any symptoms or slowly have this happen...they just eventually fail which is why it's not locking up on the highway and throwing codes (P0894). SO - - - I'd love to hear a few opinions on whether or not to replace just the converter (approx. $1-1,200 with labor), or if I should replace the whole transmission as I can get a rebuilt with warranty ($23-2,500 with labor) since all the other tranny components also have 270,000km of wear and tear. It seems that the converter is typically what fails as it is continually slipping and locking/etc., and there was nearly nothing for debris in the pan or on the magnet and the fluid looked like new so aside from this slippage issue occurring, before that the tranny worked perfectly. It has not been driven long since this started to happen. Saving over $1000 would be really great right now - but having to turn around and spend the $2500 again within a year because of some other failure is not. So just wondering if guys have done just the converter with good/fair results with the 4L80e or if they've had the rest of the tranny grenade within 20,000km afterward???
Well - the verdict is in. I had the transmission tech guys come along for a drive with their Tech Scanner...and he's 99.9% that the OD clutch plates have simply run their course. Everything he could view was signalling that the right messages are being sent and that the transmission is trying everything it can to lock up the converter in OD - but not happening. He also said that it's typically what he's seen and that they may not show any symptoms or slowly have this happen...they just eventually fail. SO - - - I'd love to hear a few opinions on whether or not to replace just the converter (approx. $1-1,200 with labor), or if I should replace the whole transmission as I can get a rebuilt with warranty ($23-2,500 with labor) since all the other tranny components also have 270,000km of wear and tear. It seems that the converter is typically what fails as it is continually slipping and locking/etc., and there was nearly nothing for debris in the pan or on the magnet and the fluid looked like new so aside from this slippage issue occurring, before that the tranny worked perfectly. Saving over $1000 would be really great right now - but having to turn around and spend the $2500 again within a year because of some other failure is not. So just wondering if guys have done just the converter with good/fair results with the 4L80e or if they've had the rest of the tranny grenade within 20,000km afterward???
Thx Bruce...I’ll see if my Trans guy in town has a Tech 2 or similar scanner that’s more capable....... as for temps, I’ve not yet seen anything above 140. And I’m watching it like a hawk (weekend truck - not primary) to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere near past 200
Hey Davester...Codes I’ve seen were commonly P0894 and on one or two occasions a P0741 code. Read what both were and the P0741 got me thinking more. I’ll maybe have to take it to a specific trans shop vs general mechanic or my plain Jane scanner. And yeah - it’s got 270 so could just be simply due for a rebuild but man, everything has just worked so well and clean/without any signs of overheating or debris. But I also know shit wears out.
Fellas...part two of Transmission issues from a previous post... Out of nowhere, 2007 2500HD gas job - 4L80e - started throwing me a Transmission slip code (two of them ). Transmission fluid nice and clean, next to no debris on the magnet/etc. 270km on the truck but ran and shifted perfect the last couple years no problem. I had a shop look at it since it really seems electrical to come out of the blue like that. They figured the same and suggested TCC solenoid - changed it - same symptoms. Clear codes, shifts great. Go on the highway and can tell it’s not locking up. Codes again. If I drive it in 3rd - same distance no issues on the highway. No codes. So....what’s next guys? Is there a 3-4 solenoid to change?? Some sort of an OD lock up solenoid aside from the TCC since it seems to be the OD/4th situation that’s causing the codes. Or is this looking toward a converter?? Had lots of other trucks with converter go out and they didn’t come out of nowhere and burnt up fluid.
Okay - so I still have to chat with the mechanic direct as he’s off today......but he has listed as a suspect Transmission Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulator Valve. So....anyone have issues with this particular piece of equipment and if I’m in there should I do both that and TCC solenoid as a precautionary measure also???
Thanks FormulaBruce - and yeah I got a brand new OEM gasket when I just changed the fluid and filter. however isn’t there like 6 solenoids or are those in reference to the shift solenoids and not the TCC Lock Up? Again I’ll see what the shop says but they mentioned briefly yesterday about thinking it was one of six - meaning shift....even though I’m still leaning towards the lock-up
Hey guys - hopefully this hasn't been beaten to death on here already...but my searches were giving all sorts of results. The long version...I've got an 06 3500 with the 6.0L-4L80e combo in it. Truck has 270K (170 miles) and I don't have the full history but it has always driven and shifted perfectly - nice clean fluid. Recently we towed a small trailer back home and it ran/shifted perfectly as usual, but as soon as we parked and unhooked the trailer I had some quick/rough/tight shifting going on. At home I scanned it and it ran code P0894 (Transmission component slipping) which I cleared and it was back to shifting perfect. I dropped the pan/pumped out all fluid anyway and everything looked great...zero material on the magnet..could probably have re-used the fluid it looked so good. Again, driving around town it seemed to shift perfect. Went on the highway and paid closer attention and sure enough I can tell I'm not getting full lock-up as the RPM's were at least a few hundred higher than normal at highway speed. The trans temp also crept higher than I usually notice after a while indicating additional slip/heat generation, but nothing even close to dangerous (in the realm of 50-60 Celsius or 120-140F). Ran codes again - got both P0894 but also P0741 (TCC Stuck Off). Okay - read a lot about how this very well could be a faulty TCC solenoid since it came out of nowhere, and there was no previous issue or burnt/brown fluid, random slips or shudders, etc. So seems electrical to me that something is telling the converter to not lock up. I took it to a pretty reputable shop - and they seem to think the same after taking it out and running a better scanner/watching things happen vs. my generic OBD reader. But they tell me of course they THINK they know which solenoid it is based on what they seen on the scan...but are being a bit coy to tell me which it is since apparently there are 6 of them??? So I'm totally capable of again pulling the pan and replacing the solenoid myself vs. having them do it only to tell me that after $500, that wasn't the one/isn't the problem. I'm also not necessarily blaming them since I get that's sometimes how these things go with electrical demons. But if they won't tell me which one they think it is tomorrow is there any way to put a better finger on it myself? I'm hoping they will or at least give me the part number on an estimate so I can see for myself but if they won't whats my next bet aside from taking it to another shop for another diagnosis? - As mentioned, it doesn't seem to throw the code in driving around town where I see numerous 1-2, 2-3 shifts......so would that lead me toward the 3-4 shift solenoid or if there is one for locking up 4th on the highway since that's where it seems to throw the codes???
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