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demech23 last won the day on November 21 2011

demech23 had the most liked content!

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About demech23

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  • Birthday 01/23/1987

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    Central MA
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  • Drives
    2010 Chevy Silverado

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  1. This is a pretty easy modifications to complete, for anyone with the center console. Not my video:
  2. Last spring I noticed some bubbles under the paint on the rear driver door on my 2010 Silverado, tiny rust holes from the inside working their way out. Metal was so weak that a prick easily pushed though.
  3. Kicker Soundgate is pretty sweet. Not overly aggressive and sounds clean. They are designed specifically for your vehicle and is plug in play. With my stock radios I installed Infinity Kappa's in the doors with the complete kit years again and have never regretted it. I actually installed the complete kit on a friend's crew cab, who liked how mine sounded (minus new door speakers). Complete with amp for door speakers amplifier and subwoofer: http://www.kicker.com/PSICRE07 Just subwoofer kit http://www.kicker.com/SSICRE07
  4. LT vs P tires

    1. I Believe the last time I looked at certain tires which I was interested in, the 265 70 18LT were cheaper than the P265 65 18. Plus the truck sits a little taller with the Bilsteins in the front and Readylift blocks and Bilsteins in the rear. 2. I have not had an issue running higher psi for LT tires on my half ton, no reprogramming, no lights, no warnings.
  5. Magnuson Moss Warranty Act requires manufacturers to honor their warranties, the manufacturer has to directly prove that the aftermarket part has caused a factory part to fail.
  6. Wire brush from drill >>> Sanding drum on Dremmel>>>2 Coats of Por15 >>>3 Coats Duplicolor Etching Primer>>>4 Coats Duplicolor Bed Armor Spray...Plus some bondo where I lost the seam.
  7. LT vs P tires

    A 265/70R18 LT is an inch taller in overall diameter, it's a popular size and well not drastically change your true speedometer mph
  8. After wire brushing I have decided on using Por 15, etching primer, then rattle can bedliner...will post pictures when done....
  9. Looking for opinions: Time to address the rust issue on my 2010 Silverado Crew Cab, rust has formed behind the bottom of the doors' lower weather strip which has started to now push the paint off the bottom of the doors to the bottom edge seen from the outside of the truck. After taking the majority of the rust off should I use a rusty metal primer, etching primer, or a rust converter??? Then topping off with either paint or rubber coating. P.S. Even though the truck has been regularly washed and waxed, I am not overly impressed with how the paint has held up for a truck that is garaged. A month back on day I noticed a bunch of bubbles under the paint on the driver's rear door. I took a pick and found rust-through holes that formed from the inside out.
  10. Almost looks like the trim piece that covers the two bolts on the door panel by the door grab handle!
  11. I have them on my Silverado, and absolutely love them. No problems so far, and they are set to the highest setting. I also know people who have the same way plus using the rough country lower truck spacer while still using the factory control arms and ball joints. When the front end gets lifted by either this adjustable strut or strut spacer the truck's toe gets pinched inword, you will need an alignment.
  12. Cv axle brands

    GM sells replacement outer boots, much better quality than the aftermarket split down the middle design kind. If the tears appear fairly new, it is a cheaper option than replacing the whole axel shaft assy.
  13. That is up to you. I replaced mine for the reassurance that they work properly if ever needed.
  14. I've had to replace horns on my 2010 after they started acting up the same way as yours. Easiest way to get at the horns is to remove the front headlights. They are located directly underneath.
  15. More so experience. My truck used to do the exact same thing; on cold starts it would run like a misfire while RPMs would be all over the place. Would get as low as if it would stall out, but after some time it would run completely fine and there would be no check engine light or codes present. I've always used top tier fuels and drive 10 miles after fill-ups. Throughout the years this probably happened about three times. Found calculated alcohol percentage to be from 47 to 52%. Looking back, It happened shortly after adding complete fuel system cleaner prior to my oil changes during the winter months. I was able to turn off my trucks alcohol percentage relearn procedure, and have luckily not had any issues since.

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