I bought this back in... 2013, from a dealer in McKinney, TX (Dallas) for my 2011 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Z-82 Texas Edition. While I was finishing my 3" rear seat lift, Forward Firing Quad 8" 4.5cu ft NET dual ported box @ 31Hz, mounting my 5 Amps, sealing off every small hole in all 4 doors with 1/8" wood and Dynamat Extreme, my Focal Utopia 6W2 Components, Focal K2p PolyKevlar Comps, etc..... I ended up totalling my 2008 Sierra 5.3l the day before I received the Mechman Alternator. A lady pulled out on the 4 lane highway (speed limit 65mph) + middle turn lane, thinking the stoplight (in the middle of nowhere) was red, but it was green, so I never let off my cruise control, whixh was set to 69mph, 4mph over the speed limit. It was cliche. Everything happened in slow motion. I was just going to slam on my brakes and rear end her, probably giving her a 50/50 chance at surviving or swerve. But I saw a young, 4-8 year old girl in the passenger seat, so I swerved. Unfortunately, I hadn't cleaned off one of my wheel speed sensors, so my VDC wasn't working, so Iserved, thinking my VDC would save me from my sudden jerk of the wheel, but itdidn't, lost the rear end, swerved left initially, then right as my rear end got light, went across I front of her, swerved left and went straight across into a tree and rolled it 4 times. She stopped for a second, never got out and drove off. I had numerous people stop and help me. Most. who saw it, was angry at the car who clearly saw it, a few guys said I should have just ran her over. So anyway... my Mechman G-Series 270a Alternator with the optional $65.00 Billet Aluminum OverDrive Pulley came in the day after I totaled it. The OverDrive Pulley does two things. First, it lightens the unsprung rotational mass, therefore making it much easier to spin which equals more horsepower. 2nd and most important is that it allows much higher output and lower RPM's. I no longer need it as I never purchased another GM vehicle. It just happened that way. I ended up getting a Nissan Armada and now I'm in a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro-4X Crew Cab that I'm lifting 8" in the front & 9" in the rear. I believe I paid $600 total for it as I have the receipt. This fits all GM vehicles from 2004-2014 4.3l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and many others such as 3.4l, 3.6l etc.. It fits vehicles with the 2-Pin Alternator Wiring Harness Plug. The alternator I was upgrading was the Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator, which is for sale also. Never installed, never mounted, never been inside an engine bay. I do know that the smaller pulley does not require a new belt. I paid $499 + $65 for the Billet Aluminum Overdrive Pulley + $20'ish for Shipping For Sale Price: $400 + Actual UPS Fully Insured ($500) Shipping
FYI. I'm putting this back up for sale
With the reverse lights on. I have it hooked up to the battery that came in the box just to show the hack up light. I haven't installed the new wiring harness yet, although, honestly, I really just need to run an extra wire for the back up function and cut the wire where the wiring is soldered (something you have to do & I suggest soldering over twist & black tape) to the 5 pin harness & remove the 5 pin harness. But I need to rerun my wiring anyway since I'm going to attach conduit piping to the ends that are attached to each of the market lights. It's like they halfway did it.
Just like everyone said, new tires since the wheels dont have a cover over them so unless they've been replaced recently, they should have weather cracking. So check on that aswell as tread depth. You'll need a new wheel bearing kit, but 2 since it's a tandem axle trailer. I'm sure he never greased inside the wheel hubs. But one rhing id check on, is what axles are used. If theyre Dexter axles, then those are grewt axles as most come with EZ Lube Axles. Should be identified somewhere. Probably need a brake rebuild, but you're going to need to know what kind of trailer brakes are used. Hydraulic, electric, air (rare) or disc (rare, but possible.) You may not need a brake overhaul kit. And lastly, you may need new wiring. But if it were me, I would take the opportunity to upgrade the trailer lights. I'd buy a new LED trailer tail light kit. Comes with plenty of wiring plus LED is the way to go. Never have to replace a bulb, much brighter, much faster, even though it's not going to be backed into the water, the trailer will likely be driven in the rain So you won't have to worry about it any moisture or water getting inside the housing and lastly they just have more awesome functions. I had a Blazer LED trailer light kit for a trailer that I enddled up getting rid of, cause it was a sloop dang heavy to tow. Ya'll think that trailer is a pig to tow, you should see the custom trailer that was way overbuilt. Friend of mine with a Suramax said he could feel it unloaded with his Duramax. Wasn't a huge trailer either. Under 20ft long. It was like, 16ft long. Just long enough to fit a car or pickup on. Anyway, it was a rectangular tail light set & my custom ATav/Dirtbike 8x5' tilt, low riding, rigid axle trailer (ordering half torsion axles today, maybe full torsion axles if my research proves it's worth the extra $100 for the half torsion axles) is setup for square tail lights. So I bought this. AutoZone just started carrying it. I had my $20 AutoZone rewards plus my friend works there & put in his employee discount so I couldn't pass it up. Otherwise, it's like, $60. I'm sure it could be found for $10 - $20 cheaper online. They are a 5 pin setup, because they have reverse lights built in and man, how useful at night! They also have blinkers/brake lights on the sides. Blazer Model # C7425
Anyone figure out for sure what group size it is for an XS Battery? My friend has a 2015 Z-71 and he's wanting to add a battery in the 2nd battery tray. But I'm trying to convince him to just replace it with an XS battery. I made sure to explain to him that you cannot mix a lead acid battery with an ATM battery. I have no idea what an H7 or Group 94 (94R) battery translates to with XS. Their website & even their app, only goes up to 2012. They seriously need to update their Battery Application section. With 2018 models already out, that's 6 years now that it's out of date. Wish my 2011 Titan Pro-4X had a 2nd battery trey. I bought me a large lead acid deep cycle battery from Atwoods (depending on where you live, you probably never heard of the place) on sale for $66 with a battery large box so I can mount it under the bed of my truck and then do "The Big 3 to help the stock, for now, alternator. I plan on upgrading to a Mechman G-Series 270a alternator exactly like the brand new Mechman G-Series 270a alternator I have sitting in the box, that was only test fitted, for my 2008 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab Texas Edition with an XS D3400. Had to sell the D3400, because I need a D3400R. Stupid reverse Polarity terminals. Never figured out a way to make my positive wires/harness longer. So if anyone is interested in in a new new in the box Mechman G-Series 270a PCM alternator, let me know. Ran me $449, but I bought the $60 polished billet aluminum underdrive pulley for lighter unsprung weight, rust free, last forever & remain shiny forever too. So it ended up totalling over $500. Selling it for considerably less than that. But anyway. Sorry. Wasn't planning on advertising my own stuff.
Hey guys, not sure if this is a How To Only to teach or if this is for helping people with questions. I don't know where else to put this, so if this should be posted elsewhere, please let the mod know to move it. This is what I want to do. I want to find a GMC Sierra SLE2, fully loaded or an SLT with 200k-250k+ miles on it or better yet, a blown motor. It MUST be a 4WD. I want to drop in an LS3 with a twin turbo setup. When I put it in 2WD, I will have EFI live take it from 500+ hp / 500+ ft lbs of toque down to a good 300/300 hp/tq level so that I don't kill the transfer case, etc... Now, I do want this to be a daily driver, so gas mileage needs to be as high as possible. I know more power usually means less MPG. It would have to have Posi, Leather Seats, Center Console and I will add the $5k stereo and the 6-8" Lift Kit with some Nitto Trail Grapplers or Cooper Discoverer STT TEK3 M/T's. It will have EFI Live, a Spintech Exhaust, black tips, the truck would be black, the chrome pieces on the truck such as the front & rear bumper along with the chrome grill trip painted black to match. I would remove the GMC Emblem on the front of the grill and replaced with a darker horizontal grill, just like my 2008 Sierra Crew Cab SLE2 Z85 Sport. 3rd picture is before I swapped out the old beaten chrome exhaust tips. the black exhaust tips made a WORLDS of difference. Pictures are of MY truck. You can see the customization I did to it. Very subtle. I just don't want the dang 5.3l. The new 5.3l looks great, but sheesh, all of of GM motors have been detuned in more than 5 ways. I want a 6.2l. Not to race, but to be different. How much would all of this cost? I know how much the paint will cost, so exclude that. I'm willing to go to a used one, but I need to pick up a better transmission. I dont want the 4 speed. I mean come one. I want the automatic 6 speed. Something like a 6L85E. I would definetely be on a budget here. I'm about to be 28 and going back to college at UNT. My Armada HAS to go. My 4WD quit working on me while being a good Samaritan and pulling someone out of the ditch here in Texas.
I have a Brand New, never installed, Mechman G Series 270a Alternator for the NNBS trucks. This fits many vehicles and motors including, but not limited to the 4.3l, 4.8l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l and 6.6l Duramax. This is for the 2 pin wiring harness only, not the 4 pin wire harness. I am just now getting around to posting everything back up for sale which I am posting for sale on other GM Truck message boards. I would use this, but I no longer have my 2008 GMC Sierra SLE2 CC 5.3l Z82 Sport. I found my invoice and see that I bought this for $514. I can provide the invoice. One just sold for $458 + Shipping on EBay a few weeks ago. I am asking $430 + Actual Shipping via FedEx insured. I have a FedEx Account so I get a shipping discount and will pass those savings on to you. It has an Underdrive Pulley so it creates its maximum amperage and has a great amperage curve at such a low RPM. 175amps @ Idle @ 750rpm (5.3l Motors Idle in between 600-800rpm) 225amps @ 1000rpm (This is what a 5.3l motor will idle at 1000rpm for COLD for most of the time till it heats up) 260amps- 265amps @ 1400-1500rpm @ Immediate Startup. (At first for several minutes, the ECU will choke the 5.3l will idle @ 1400-1500rpm’s Cold Start.) 270amps @ 1750rpm’s. So depending on what gearing you have in your rear end, we will assume that you have 3.73 gears as that is the most popular rear end gear ratio. So while cruising on the highway at 65mph, you are turning at roughly 1,500RPM’s, right? I forgot as I now have a Nissan Armada and even though it has 3.73 gear ratio also, at 65mph, my truck turns at 1800RPM due to the 5th Gear Ratio and that I have much larger tires than a Sierra and what came with my Armada; which are 325/60/18’s (33.44” Tires.) So at cruising speed, you will already be past the point where you are turning the amount of RPM’s to achieve the full 270a. Like I said above, at idle, you are at 175amps compared to only roughly 80a @ idle with the stock Optional AC Delco DR44 145a alternator that comes with the Towing Package on the 5.3l, 6.0l and the 6.2l gas engines. To achieve the full output of 270amps, there is only a 1000RPM difference. It takes significantly more to get the full output of your stock alternator since the Amperage to RPM Curve is so steep. See the curve graph below. It has its factory warranty as I purchased it from an authorized dealer straight through Mechman. PRICE for BRAND NEW MECHMAN H.O. 270A ALTERNATOR: $430 + ACTUAL SHIPPING. Will be shipped out via FedEx with a discounted price since I have a FedEx Account. G Series The hugely popular G series of large case 3 phase alternators have been tried and true for over 15 years. These units offer excellent low RPM output, with 100,000 mile durability. The 270 amp versions of these units utilize custom designed solid copper rectifier plates with 6 or more press fit high amp diodes for outstanding durability in commercial or recreational vehicles. These units utilize heavy duty regulators and premium NTN bearings, and are available for a wide variety of vehicles. Non-PCM controlled versions are compatible with the adjustable voltage boost module. (see Accessories for more details) Note: Customers with smaller than 6” diameter crankshaft pulleys, or narrower than 6 groove drive belts should use the 250 amp model for best performance at idle and minimized belt slip. ·Testimonials Well I have a 99 expedition 5.4 I can't believe the world of difference this alt made on my truck the entire lighting system has improved my system sounds more crisper bass is 3 times deeper lights don't dim at all I rate this product 100% on my chart only took 30 mins to install thanks Mechman great product. Patrick Hopkins I ordered this unit over a year ago and have had no issues with it. Added the external adjustable voltage regulator and was even more satisfied with my purchase. Made a few calls with some questions and customer service was always on point. Will definitely remain loyal to Mechman. Dustin Goldstrohm PRICE: $430 + With Free Shipping Other Items for Sale: AC Delco Optional Upgraded DR44 145a alternator that fits 4.3l, 4.8l, 5.3l, 6.0l, 6.2l, 6.6l Duramax and 8.1l motors It would fit as all of the Vortec motors essentially have the same mounts for the accessories. AC Delco Professional Line Upgraded 48-6YR battery from my 2008 GMC Sierra 5.3l. My battery quit on me and I took it to the dealership and had them replace it. I had the option to upgrade to the AC Delco 48-6YR battery, for the price difference of $73.00 + $13.00 Labor and $8.50 in Tax for a total of $108.50 price difference, as it had more Cold Cranking Amps, Cranking Amps and more Amp Hours versus the battery that came with the truck that had the 24-6YR. 3 months after I got the battery, I replaced it with a Kinetic HC16V Car Audio Battery, so this battery hasn't seen much use. It's almost a brand new battery. It's a Group 34 Battery. It has a 30 Month Warranty. I have the invoice and receipt so you can easily retain the warranty without having to look up the purchase price from Classic Buick GMC of Carrollton in Carrollton, TX. The warranty can be retained by any GM Dealership. I believe I have the invoice, if not, then they can look it up in the computer. This will fit many other vehicles, not just GM Trucks. I listed the dimensions below. Copied and Pasted from AC Delco's Website. Model-----------Application----------AH/RC-----CCA------CA---- L---- W ------ H--------Lbs.----- Price 48-6YR-----12Volt Automotive----- 110--------615--------750---10.9--6.9--------7.5------35.5-----$164.95 The factory battery that came with my 2008 GMC Sierra was a 24-6YR Model----------Application-------------RC---------CCA-------CA ----L------W-------H------Lbs. ---Price 24-6YR-----12Volt Automotive-------110--------600--------650-----10-----6.8-----8.8------39-----$91.95 Remember that I mentioned above, that I never got around to installing my stereo before totaling my truck. My XS D3400 battery was in the truck when I rolled it, but it came out fine. The engine compartment was fine. 2007+ OEM Factory Radio from my 2008 SLE2 Sierra 2 Used Infinity Kappa Perfect 10” VQ10 Subwoofers. I’m not into mainstream branded car audio such as I hate JL Audio, JBL,Kenwood, I hate Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Sony, most Alpine, most MTX most Alpine, etc…... These are Mass Produced and Mass Marketed brands that spend more money on marketing than they do on the things I mentioned above likeoverpriced JL Audio, Kicker, etc... These things will slam, especially in a large box. They kept up with some of the double and triple priced mass marketed 12's out there. I guarantee you that you would be impressed at how loud and how well these sound. If you have them on a quality amplifier that actually puts out its rated RMS wattage power, say, 1000-1800wrms in a good size box, it will slam. I like Audiophile Quality car audio… Brands that aren’t mass produced. These Infinity subs are the exception like the Alpine Type R’s, MTX Audio 8500 and 9500 Series Subwoofers. Audiophile brands that spend more money in Research & Development, quality parts, mostly hand built, don't advertise, etc... such as Sundown Audio, Focal, Hertz, Digital Designs, RE Audio, Incriminator Audio, DC Audio, PSI Car Audio, TC Sounds, etc… Might be surprising that I have Audiopipe, but I bought their AP30001D 3000wrms amplifier that puts out 3000wrms @ 1 ohm (1500wrms x’s 2) or 2 ohm (3000wrmx x’s 1) and I was extremely surprised it did more than it’s rated power on the bench and the distortion rate was superb, so I ended up selling the AP30001D to get a little bit more power and get a pair of AP18001D 1800wrms each. So instead of each of my modified Sundown Audio SA-8 Stock SPL 8” Subs getting 750wrms each, they will be getting 920-950wrms each (920-950wrms x’s 4) Anyway, back to the Infinity Subs. These subs surprised the hell out of me. They were insanely loud for being 10’s Everyone, who has been in my Armada, asked me what kind of 12’s I had in there. I told them they weren’t 12’s. They asked me what kind of 15 or 15’s I had. I told them what they were and they were shocked. I had them in a 4.8 cu ft Net box tuned to 32Hz. They get loud and get low, especially for 10’s. The SQ is exceptional also. I have been holding on to these subs for a while, but since I still haven’t installed my SA-8 V.2 modified Subs, I want to actually hear them for the first time. I’ve had them for a year now and still haven’t installed them. I have been putting my stereo install in my Armada for way too long. This was originally ran off of a 1500wrms amp, then bumped it up to an 1800wrms amp and it made a difference. I have had these subs for a while. like RE Audio (Resonant Engineering), Incriminator Audio, DC Audio, Sundown Audio, PSI Car Audio, TC Sounds, etc… Price for Both Infinity Kappa Perfect VQ 10’s: $175 + Actual Shipping. Also, I have a Phillips Dual Portable DVD LCD 7” Screens. These work as a portable DVD System or they have straps to strap them on the back of the headrest. My Armada already has a pair of Farenheight LCD Headrest Monitors, so I have no need for them, unless I want to strap them to my 2nd row Headrests for my 3rd Row passengers. To Keep the Infinity line going, I also have a pair of used Infinity Kappa 4x6 2 way plate speakers. I forgot the model number, but it’s something like, Infinity Kappa 469.cpf or something like that.Price: $50 + Actual Shipping 3” Seat Lift Kit. I am taking new orders on a 3” Rear Seat Lift, made out of T6-6061 Aircraft Grade Aluminum which is EXTREMELY STRONG, to aid in more room underneath your seats for a larger displacement subwoofer box and to aid in the ability to install deeper mounting depth boxes. Before, I was only able to fit a sealed box that got me 1.66 cu. ft. GROSS. Just by adding 3” of seat lift, I was able to squeeze out over 5.0 cu. ft. GROSS / 3.0 cu. ft NET ported box with dual ports tuned to 31Hz and had my SA-8 V.2’s firing forward. So there was atleast 10” tall on the front of the box. I could have used 10’s or 12’s and not have to go with a shallow mount subwoofer. I could have easily fit a subwoofer with over 7” Mounting Depth and I built that ported box shorter than I could have since I moved the seats forward 3”. See above why it’s not only serves a purpose to slide your seats forward 3”, but it’s important in order to utilize the entire back wall to mount multiple amps, room for wiring, distribution blocks, DSP’s, Power Converter that I installed and Crossovers. It also gave the amplifiers room to breathe. So I will be making these out of Aircraft Grade T6-6061 Aluminum @ .25” thick. There will be 7 seat lift blocks total. 2 for the driver’s side, 2 for the middle, 2 for the passenger’s side and one for the seat belt. There is more information in the thread I created for the 3” Seat Lift Kit that I am taking orders for. These include an upgrade in Nuts and Bolts. Factory Nuts and Bolts are Grade 2. I’m not providing Grade 2, Grade 4 or even Grade 6. I’m providing super strong Grade 8, which is used on cranes, airplanes, helicopters and anything else you can imagine that is several tons to 100+ ton machines, tornado shelters, etc… Check the thread for the price in the For Sale Section. Price: $150 + Actual Shipping with 7 custom fabricated and aircraft grade strong 3”/3” seat lift blocks and Grade 8 Nuts and Grade 8 Nuts. BRAND NEW JVC KW-NT800HDT. JVC's Flagship Model. I totaled my Sierra a month ago and JVC was kind enough to replace my entire unit even though I was involved in an accident. I have yet to get a new vehicle, so I have only hooked it up to my new XS D3400 AGM Car Audio battery in my bedroom to download the new firmware. Other than that, it has not been used. It comes with the cage with no bent tabs to show it has not been installed. If you are not familiar with the unit, you can go here to read all of the great features. This is JVC's Flagship Model, so it's their top of the line unit.I was going to get the Pioneer AVIC-Z140BT, as I am a diehard Pioneer fan and have never owned anything but a Pioneer unit in the 13 years I have been into car audio since the day I turned 16 and got my Driver's License. However, the guy at the car audio shop asked me a good question before buying it. How important is Live Traffic? I told him, very important in Dallas. He told me I would have to buy a separate external & expensive brain to get the Traffic for it. He told me that this is the same unit he has in his G37 and told me if I didn’t like it, I could bring it back. I never brought it back. So what I have for sale is a new JVC-KW-NT800HDT straight from JVC that was replaced by them. It’s not refurbished. It's NEW. I took it out of the box as I said to take pictures and to upload the new firmware from the SD Card in the SD Card Slot when the motorized Screen folds down for the slot of the CD Player and below that is the SD Card Slot. This also allows for 9 different angle options of the screen to be changed to customize it if you are looking down at it it can be angled upwards or for a truck dash, it can be angled slightly downwards. In my Sierra, I used the +1 Setting. When the vehicle turns off or the Navigation unit turns off, it motorizes back to the flat position which is 0. Other than that, it's still in the box. I have yet to get a new truck yet. Comes with everything out of the box. Price: $700 + Actual Shipping I also have a USA Made, Planet Audio RXD1400 1400wrms amplifier @ 1 ohm. I believe it puts out 1000wrms @ 2 ohm and 800wrms at 4 ohm if I remember correctly. Price: $80 + Actual Shipping I WILL ALSO CONSIDER BUNDLING ITEMS FOR A DISCOUNT IF YOU PURCHASE 2 OR MORE ITEMS FROM ME. It's been a rough past several months... I was buying everything collectively over the past several months and would’ve had everything purchased and installed by now except earlier this year, I was rushed to the hospital where I was hospitalized for 4 weeks and had to have major abdominal surgery which took me a couple of months to recover from. I then resumed purchasing everything, but never got a chance to install. I totaled the truck in a rollover accident in late August where I had just begun my installation process which included removal of my rear seats, installing the 3" rear lift, I fabricated (And I am taking new orders again so see my other thread for a 3” Seat Raise Kit) & I assembled together, installed my 40 section of my 40/60 rear seats, sealed up the holes on the inner door panel with ¼” Wood in my rear doors, installed my Dynamat, painted and mounted my amp rack backplate, ran one of my 1/0awg OFC power wire, installed my rear Focal K2p Component Speakers without the Passive Crossovers and was in the process of running my second run of 1/0awg power wire and had just built my fiberglass QUAD 8” 3.0 cu ft forward facing ported box tuned to 31Hz for my brand new 4 Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL subs. I was lucky to be in that part of the process when a lady pulled out infront of me on a 6 lane highway at rolled my truck or I might have had some injuries due to amplifiers, subwoofer box, Subwoofers, Fuse Holders, 4 Different Passive Focal Crossovers, 3 Distribution Blocks, etc… flying around possibly hitting me and injuring me. Everything was at home, ready to be put in. The only thing that suffered was my new JVC KW-NT800HDT flagship Navigation TouchScreen, which JVC replaced for free! So I am also selling that, because I already have a Navigation in my Nissan Armada. It’s not a refurbished model, it’s a brand new model. This is how I had my new install planned out, which many of this is for sale. I had everything ready to install my new stereo which includes my 4 Brand New Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL Model 8” Subwoofers modified with a lighter voice coil and removed, replaced and added 2 extra Spider Packs that were also heavier…, my brand new pair of Audiopipe AP18001D 1800wrms amplifiers, my brand new XS D3400 Battery, New Kinetic HC16V 16Volt battery with dual 12v and 16v battery post (Already Sold), my current Focal Utopia 6W2 6.75” Components installed in the front doors, my current Focal K2P 6.75” Components with Digital Design T1 silk dome tweeters for a more laid back sound installed in the rear, my current Focal PS 165 Performance 6.5” Components installed in my Q-Logic Kick Panels (Kick Panels have been sold), New Audiopipe AQX-360.4 4 channel amp, my previously installed Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2, 2 runs of 1/0awg OFC Cadence Cool Wire that I only had 1 run installed, Rockford Fosgate Sixty.2, several various distribution power fused and ground blocks, my new already installed JVC KW-NT800HDT 7” TouchScreen Navigation/DVD Unit and lastly my fiberglassed/MDF Dual Ported QUAD 8” Subwoofer box with the 8” Subs firing forward @ 3.0 cu ft NET tuned to 31Hz. The Gross Air Volume was well over 5 cu ft. I couldn’t have done anything close to that without raising the seats just only 3” and found out that I needed to slide my seats forward, just a tad 3” to mount 4 of my amplifiers, 300W Power Convertor, Distribution Blocks and 4 of my Component Crossovers. This also gave my amps room to breathe and no longer over heated. I wouldn’t have been able to mount only 3 amplifiers on the back wall with the Distribution Blocks. So since it was impossible to only mount two of my amps with room to breathe and my Distribution Blocks, I needed more room to mount my 2 other amplifiers, Crossovers, Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 DSP and my small 300w Power Convertor I was able to take the stock alternator, various interior plastics (such as the center console insert, dual cup holder insert for the center console, etc…) stock CD player already in my factory car audio box in storage, Gorilla Locking Lugnuts, and some other items. These items are available for sale. I will eventually begin posting the items, mentioned above, I have for sale soon. I have a Nissan Armada SE 4x4 so I won’t need any of the factory items and many of the other BNIB Car Audio equipment.
2007+ Crew Cab 3” Rear Seat Lift Due to several responses I have received on the kit I have fabricated in the past, I decided to make another new thread for a rear seat lift for 2007+ Crew Cab Silverado’s and Sierra’s. This kit includes everything for a 3" rear seat lift made out of T6-6066 Aluminum. I have this installed in my truck and will be taking them out on Monday. They have the predrilled holes. I chose T6-6066 aluminum blocks because of how strong it is. They are .25" thick. I looked up the specs on T6-6066 aluminum and it’s very strong and if I was going to raise my seats, safety was my #1 priority, especially over price. I pieced this together myself. So this kit will raise your rear seats 3” and move them forward 3”. Allows you to run your wires through the seat lift blocks. The reason to move the rear seats forward 3”, is because the original kit I made, did not allow much room to mount my 4 amplifiers, distribution blocks, 300w Power Convertor and my Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2. Even with 2-3 amplifiers, it can be rather difficult. Not only that, it also allows room for your amplifiers to BREATHE. What I did was use ¾” MDF wood from my scrap wood from making my box, painted the wood black and used adhesive caulking over my Dynamatt Extreme. This allowed me to mount my amplifiers securely with longer screws and as I said above, for the amplifiers to breathe so they won’t shut down. This kit is not just for people who want to raise it for a bigger and deeper subwoofer box, it can be used if you want to add more space for more storage. This is the best way to get more cubic feet of airspace out of your box, because you are increasing the airspace out of the largest area, which is by the width of the box by increasing the height of the box AND you get an extra 3” in the depth of the box from front to back. The largest box I have seen made was a SEALED box at 1.66 cubic feet (.83 per chamber.) I made a DUAL PORTED box at 3.0 cu ft and with my FOUR Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Modified Subwoofers and had them firing forward. So if you want to make a sealed box, you can get atleast 5.0 cubic feet, so you can see how much of a bigger box you can make just by lifting the seats (Box height) by 3”. This also allows you to run a 10” or 12” subwoofer with a deeper mounting depth. You won’t have to use shallow subs or shallow mount subs. 3” is a big improvement in regards to mounting depth on subwoofers. Unfortunately, I totaled my Sierra before I was done with my whole new subwoofer and amplifier setup. I was done with the box, had them mounted in the box, but I totaled it when I had the new wiring ran, the seat lift installed. I didn’t even get a chance to install my new Mechman 270a H.O. Alternator (Which is for sale by the way.) Other members and a website have duplicated it as I have shared this info below with people on GM membership message boards, but they used thinner metal or weaker metal to be cheap. Sorry, but I’m not taking on that liability, even if the metal and thickness might be considered overkill. I will include all of the Grade 8 Nuts and Bolts, which is around $35. Factory bolts and nuts are Grade 4. I had to go to the hardware store several times to get the correct length of bolts and getting the 7/16" @ 1" long Grade 8 HEX Bolts. I believe I used 1" bolts and when fastened down, no threads were showing. I think 1 1/4" bolts will be too long to fit your open ended wrench inside. It’s important to notice that I am using Grade 8 Hardware, as your seats will be taller so there will be added stress when people are sitting in the back as it will be taller. Also, I am using .25” thick Aircraft Grade T6-6061 Aluminum which is EXTREMELY STRONG. Much stronger than the steel that is used for your factory seat brackets by the inch. Basically, if GM would have used the more expensive T6-6061 Aluminum at the same thickness as the current brackets, they would be 10 x’s stronger, if made out of my metal I’m supplying, which is important, because of the added stress. Some of these sets of pictures are from when I was rewiring the first time back earlier this year and then the last set of pictures are recent of me rewiring everything again. So please excuse the mess. You will receive the following: 4 Rectangular Blocks for the sides; front and rear. 2 Rectangular Blocks for the middle; front and rear Unfortunately, where I buy my metal, which is the cheapest place, which are few, do not offer T6-6061 Aluminum in .25" thickness for the middle brackets. I will asking the company I buy my metal from, if they have this in .25" thickness now, as the last time I bought the metal to fabricate these kits, was almost a year ago. Price: $150 + actual shipping The materials are not cheap, being T6-6061 Aluminum. What also makes it costly for me is the thickness. I'm honestly not making much money off of this. To be honest, with shipping, I'm only making roughly $35 off of each kit and each kit I fabricate, takes some time for me to cut and fabricate each one and it takes precise cuts for these to work. I will have it professionally cut with smooth edges/cuts and 20lbs in shipping. I even raised the seat belts.... Pictures of the seats test fitted. Middle blocks are great to run your wires through. I ran my 1/0 awg power wire, 6 sets of speaker wire from my crossovers, remote wire, and one of my 1/0 awg ground cable through this. Hid it very well. Please excuse the wiring. I was taking out my wiring while I was removing the rear seats and blocks this weekend. This is not how I set up my wiring. Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts INSTRUCTIONS Very simple really. NO CUTTING OR MODIFICATION REQUIRED WHAT SO EVER. I mounted the blocks first, then the 40 section of the 40/60 seat, then the 60 section of the seat. To me it seems easier than bolting the blocks to the seat mounts first, then dropping the blocks and seat on the studs. By mounting the blocks first, you are able to slide a socket on the nut that goes to the stud, then slide an extension through the top hole and begin to tighten. STRENGTH TheT6-6061 Aluminum is aircraft grade material. Using Grade 8 HEX bolts seen in the very last pictures. Going with Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts gives you strength of 120,000 PSI. That strong enough for ya? lol Means its 4 TIMES as strong than what came from the factory which is Grade 2. Meaning if you were into an accident, your factory seats are more at risk to break than with this kit. Its more than twice the strength. Plus the T6-6061 .25" aluminum From Wikipedia: T6-6061 aluminum is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft. 2024 alloy is somewhat stronger, but 6061 is more easily worked and remains resistant to corrosion even when the surface is abraded, which is not the case for 2024, which is usually used with a thin Alclad coating for corrosion resistance. .25" Thickness - Ultimate Bearing Strength: 607 MPa (88,000 psi) So you can see how much research I did on safety before I made my purchase of materials My Box that I never got installed. So I don’t even know how these subwoofers sound. I can only go on what the few people that have these have said. Pictures of the seats test fitted. Middle blocks are great to run your wires through. I ran my 1/0 awg power wire, 6 sets of speaker wire from my crossovers, remote wire, and one of my 1/0 awg ground cable through this. Hid it very well. Please excuse the wiring. I was taking out my wiring while I was removing the rear seats and blocks this weekend. This is not how I set up my wiring. Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts INSTRUCTIONS Very simple really. NO CUTTING OR MODIFICATION REQUIRED WHAT SO EVER. I mounted the blocks first, then the 40 section of the 40/60 seat, then the 60 section of the seat. To me it seems easier than bolting the blocks to the seat mounts first, then dropping the blocks and seat on the studs. By mounting the blocks first, you are able to slide a socket on the nut that goes to the stud, then slide an extension through the top hole and begin to tighten. I also recommend using the industrial strength bolts and nuts from Lowe's. Much stronger than what came from the factory. If you have problems trying to find the bolts, then ask an employee where the Grade 8 and higher bolts are. I recommend not using a Grade 2 or 5 bolt and nut. STRENGTH All of the T6-6061 Aluminum is Aircraft Grade material. Using Grade 8 HEX bolts seen in the very last pictures. Going with Grade 8 Hex Bolts and Nuts gives you strength of 120,000 PSI. That strong enough for ya? lol Means its 4 TIMES as strong than what came from the factory which is Grade 2. Meaning if you were into an accident, your factory seats are more at risk to break than with this kit. It’s more than twice the strength. Plus the T6-6061 .25" aluminum From Wikipedia: T6-6061 aluminum is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft. 2024 alloy is somewhat stronger, but 6061 is more easily worked and remains resistant to corrosion even when the surface is abraded, which is not the case for 2024 Aluminum, which is usually used with a thin Alclad coating for corrosion resistance. .25" Thickness - Ultimate Bearing Strength: 607 MPa (88,000 psi) So you can see how much research I did on safety before I made my purchase of materials
One thing I'm going to do, once I land a job, is do an electric fan conversion. My 2008 GMC Sierra listed below, came with electric fans if I remember correctly. You oughta look into doing that. Will give you an extra 10-15hp and 1 MAYBE 2mpg increase. The list of things I'm going to do to increase my Fuel Effeciency is the following: CAI Muffler (Can't go with a chambered muffler like Flowmaster, which I'm not a fan of anyway because after I did some research, its actually not a performance muffler. It's for sound only. The one I wanted to go with was a Spintech Pro Street. I swapped out my Flowmaster 40 Series with a Spintech 6000 Pro-Street, which is actually a performance muffler and I saw a 1mpg increase, throttle response and a noticable power increase. Probably 10hp since it was just a single in, dual out muffler. No piping, no Hi-Flow catalytic converters, CAI, etc... so with a full exhaust system and your CAI, you should see a better increase in performance and gas mileage. The Spintech Pro-Street muffler I swapped out on my Sierra was worth it. For $95, it was REALLY worth it. The sound was deeper, throatier, and sounded all around better. Oh and by the way, they are damn near bulletproof. Won't ever have to worry about punctures or corrosion as it's made out aluminum and it's so thick, it would take decades for it to corrode through. Electric Fan Conversion (Should free up about 15hp and 1 MAYBE 2MPG from the HEAVY clutch fan. I already have 400ft lbs of torque, so I'm more interested in the gas savings than the power increase) Electric Water Pump (If Possible) Different Tires (Go back to a narrower tire) something like a 33x11.50x18. If you are interested in my tires that have less than 2000 miles on them with the $300 (for the set) Road Hazard Warranty, they are for sale. I don't want to sell them, but I have to drive 600 miles once a month round trip so I need to go with something like 285/70/18's Terra Grapplers or something. The cost on these were $2,109 after installation, tire waste disposal fee of $5, $162 in taxes and $300 in Road Hazard (Hey, it's worth it for $2100 tires), but I'll sell them for much cheaper than that.
Sounds good. Would be a heck of a trip. 1300 miles round trip for the both of us. 750 miles to meet in the middle and 750 miles back home for us, but I'm willing. I just bought a 2004 Nissan Armada today. It gets TERRIBLE gas mileage at 15mpg on highway without the trailer. Drove to Ohio to get it, so I found out real quick that my Armada gets terrible gas mileage. Worse than it should be. Sticker says 18mpg, but I have 4WD with a 2" lift via Bilstein 5100 Front Adjustable Coilovers in the front, 2" rear spacer and but atleast I have a set of new 325/60/18 33" Cooper Discoverer STT TEK3 Mud Terrain Tires so atleast I'll be able to have some fun with my new tires that were just put on. They are a month old. Been thinking about selling them to get All Terrain Tires in the same size. They are a Type E rated tire so they can even be put on 1 ton trucks and tow at maximum towing rate. Might be worth it for me to rent a pickup that gets 21mpg on highway. If I could rent a truck and make the trip in a day, like I did with my 1200 mile trip to Ohio, the cost of 20mpg vs 14mpg would be Left early in the morning, stayed overnight at a hotel since it was late when we got into town. At 1300 miles, that's 3.25 tanks of gas on a 28 gallon tank for $332.15 vs 26 gallon tank at 19mpg @ $284.70 for a savings of $48. Well I guess it's not that much of a savings to rent a Silverado. I was thinking outloud. $1100 - $330 = $770 for my trailer. Man, that's really going to kill my profits. Are you sure you don't live closer than Bakersfield? LOL
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