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Showing results for tags 'cylinder'.
Found 6 results
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Annoying Squeak every time cylinders reactivate from V4 to V8
Z71Texan posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
At 1800 miles I noticed that my truck started or has been making this really annoying, high pitched squeak every time it switches from V4 to V8 on the highway. It almost sounds like a valve opens up when the cylinders reactivate and is driving me nuts!! I don't hear anything when it goes from V8 to V4. Unfortunately, I don't get to enjoy the "quiet cabin" GM advertised because of the squeaking. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I have the 5.3L V8 in a 2015 LT Crew Cab short box Z71 -
Hey all, I have a few items I'm selling to make some room in the garage. These items fit a 2014+ GM 6.2L V8. If you happen to live in New England I can possibly come to you. This is why I'm selling the parts. Had the truck for a few months and a handful of lifters and pushrods S.T.B.. So I went down the rabbit hole :). Diablo Sport Trinity 2 EX performance tuner. $599 RETAIL. Selling for $399.00 obo (Only had for a few months on truck). Momentum XP 5R Cold Air Intake System. $512 Retail. Selling for 300. approximately 3,000 miles on it. Comes with recharge kit. Kooks 1 3/4 Long tube Headers. $1,389 Retail. Selling for $500.00 approximately 1,000-2,000 miles on them. Purchased May 2018. Texas Speed Performance 1 7/8 Long tube headers. $539 Retail. Selling for $150. approximately 500-600 miles on it. Purchased October 2018, truck broke Jan15ish 2019. OEM Radiator $50.00 obo OEM Pistons (8) $300 obo Cylinder Heads complete (pair) $500.00 (Cleaned, perfect for sending off to port, core refund or replacement). GM 6.2L camshaft. $80 obo. Pictures upon interest. PM if you are.
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How can I tell if it’s a master or slave cylinder going bad? Seems like on a hard pull my clutch pedal is real soft and goes to floor easy and hard to change gears. When truck sits to cool I have hard clutch pedal again? Thank you -
I am working on a 2002 Chevy 2500 HD. The ignition key is sticking when you turn it, and will remain in the cranking position sometimes. I swapped out the ignition cylinder and key, everything is all good there. I also know that the cylinder and key is not the issue, because when the cylinder is removed, if you take a large flat head screwdriver and turn the "recepticle" (female end) of the ignition cylinder, it still sticks. I tried lowering the igntion switch and even without the switch in place, it still sticks. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
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Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike -
Truck has less than 250 miles on it and now the key won't go all the way into the ignition to allow the truck to start. I noticed this two days ago but I could shake/wiggle/jiggle the key and it would go all the way in and start the truck. Today, I drove the truck...parked it in the garage...now neither set of keys will go all the way into the ignition. I tried the shake/wiggle/jiggle...doesn't work...tried moving the steering wheel...didn't work. Anyone else have these issues or have suggestions? Thanks, Mike
