That and the fact it wouldn't go back in. Threads are definitely galled. I'll use my suction gun and pull all the fluid I can out and call it good. I don't think it's worth the effort to repair. Just flush it as best I can, seal it and forget about it.
New to me 2008 Tahoe. 140K miles Completing fluid changes so that I know. Fill plug first ... was tough, but it never required a lot of force to get it out. Got about a full turn coming out and it began getting really difficult. Tried to go back in and it was just too hard to move. Doesn't appear to be cross-threaded. I stopped before I cracked the case. I'm open to suggestions going forward.
I went from an 8.1 to a diesel and regretted it after the first oil change. 01 2500hd 2wd CC 8.1/Alli Got 13 combined and 9 pulling a 12K 28' car hauler. Pulled it better than the Powerstroke. It used a quart of oil every 2500 miles which is typical. A local couple bought it and drug a camper all over the US. Its no drag queen but has a mountain pulling capacity.
Yes ... subsonic. No, there was no exit wound. I too would be skeptical using subs at anything over 75 yards on a pig. Pigs have some impressive armor.
Just picked up a 2001 Regency suburban for the wife to use ferrying around our grand kids. It has the 4 captain's chair layout and like every leather GM truck of the era, the driver's seat is a little worn ... OK ... a lot. I had an early 80s GMC van with 4 captains and when the driver's seat began to show wear, I pulled the seat off the base of the front and rear left side and swapped cuase the left side rear had almost zero wear. Other than the heating element and lumbar, is there any reason why I couldn't do the same thing on the Burb?
Remington 700BDL chambered in 308 Boyds stock (cause I didn't care for the condom covered Hogue) Leupold VX-R 4-12x50 YHM Phantom2 Ti 208g AMAX subsonic First blood .... 151 lb Hill Country white tail Dropped in his tracks at 110 yds
As stated earlier, the manual lever is used when the trailer gets into a sway. Don't let off the gas and lay on the trailer brakes. I strongly suggest you practice applying trailer brakes manually. Sucks to need them and not know where or how to do it. I was told a long time ago to set the gain so that the trailer tires just didn't lock up at 20 mph. Find the gain setting for the load and return to it each time. Most of us have just a couple settings so it's not that hard to recall. Its harder to remember to set it each time the load changes. The "boost" is a ramp from no gain to your gain setting. It can be set to linear, quick ramp to gain (lot of gain on initial braking) and slow ramp to gain (the harder you push, the more trailer brake is applied). Its a preference, so experiment and see which one you and your truck likes.
mitchntx replied to wurgs's topic in Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRVA few ...
Installed ... took about an hour, not including the trip to the local automotive shop for use of a decent spring compressor. Toe went unchanged as did ride height as measured from a LCA bolt, The Harbor Freight POS spring compressor I had looked like the one O'Rielly's had for a loaner. They both appeared way to fragile to compress a spring with the size of coils.I haven't a clue what the spring rate is nor how much preload was on the assembly. So, to be safe, I had it done. Initial impressions ... with a short wheelbase, there is some porpoising present at times. That seems to have been diminished quite a bit. Ride seems smoother for the most part. Abrupt changes in road surface seem a bit more noticeable initially, but smooth out very quickly. So bump valving seems stiffer and rebound more controlled. No change in body roll (and didn't expect any). Shocks control motion and are not intended to shift weight. Next is to hitch up the camper and see if there are any changes in the way the truck reacts before a dive in for a Hellwig rear bar.
Strut assemblies on FWD cars and Mustangs have the upper strut mount serving as the adjustment for camber and caster. R&Ring makes an alignment a no-brainer. But it looks to me as though the strut assembly on the Sierra serves as a coil-over assembly with a SLA design rather than a traditional strut assembly which has no upper control A-Arm. With no ride height change (no change in geometry) I question whether an alignment is necessary in a shock change and was going to make that decision after taking before/after toe measurements. In looking, the shock plays no geometric role in the suspension. So changing it would be like changing a sway bar end-link in terms of needing an alignment. The end game is better control and stability while towing my camper. I can feel the trailer pushing around the rear of the truck. I'm sure shocks will make a huge difference. I'm also kicking around the idea of a rear sway bar. I'll see how shocks do and then follow that path or not. Rule I learned in setting up a race car ... make incremental changes so specific results can be measured. Edit: The reasoning behind before/after toe measurements being my guide is because the distance between tie rod ends is a fixed distance through the steering components. With the steering mounted to the body, movement in the body changes the relative distance between tie rod ends as the front suspension arcs through its range of motion (bumpsteer). Lift the truck and I get more toe-in ... lower the truck and I get toe out.
I already know I'm removing the front strut assembly and having a shop R&R the struts. I'm not changing the ride height. Question is will an alignment be necessary? Or will it be close enough to drive to an alignment shop. After all, most box alignment shops align within a window and not a specific number. It's why I always did my own alignments on the race car. I have toe plates and will document before and after changes in toe. That should be a good indicator if camber/caster has changed significantly. Sound logic?
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