I am having the same issue with my 2011 silverado with... LC9 - VORTEC 5.3L V8 ENGINE, ALUMINUM BLOCK, FLEX-FUEL W/ ACTIVE FUEL MANAGEMENT The check engine light was on and Autozone said it was the gas pressure sensor that was the issue. However now that I have read about the vent solenoid being stuck I don't know what to believe. When i try to fill up the tank, I have to fill at the slowest setting on the gas nozzle and it trips the nozzle within 5 seconds or so. It trips the nozzle really fast when the tank is virtually empty, but once i get a couple gallons in the tank it will run longer before tripping the nozzle if i keep the gas nozzle at the slowest speed. This is very annoying and i want it fixed. Just wondering if anyone can verify what replacement kit needs to be ordered for this issue. Thanks
I don't know where the other post went ask about how I was listening, but I re respond anyways for better info. I normally listen to FM as i do not have a contract with XM radio. I haven't figured out a way to stream my Amazon Music from my Pixel 3 into the stock head unit through Bluetooth. I didn't think that was possible. I thought you could just make phone calls over the Bluetooth system, but if that is possible I would love to know how to do that. Currently I use a USB-C to 3.5mm cable from my phone into the Aux input of the radio if i want to listen to that kind of music. In those situations I have to turn the volume on the phone all the way up, and turn the radio dial all the way up in order to get mediocre bass. I am absolutely AMAZED at how clean the signal is in that situation though. Normally if you max out the volume on units the signal gets distorted badly, but it comes through quite clear.
My Texas Edition has the center console subwoofer, but you wouldn't even know it was there unless you really cranked up the volume. I don't really want to mess with adding an aftermarket subwoofer, but I would like to know if there is a relatively easy way to increase the wattage going to the stock subwoofer?
Damn that sucks. It really is annoying having to use both hands in the parking lot. Highway is fine, but I would still prefer a little softer touch on the steering wheel when driving around the city.
I just got through with a 3 day vacation and this stiff steering is getting annoying. Does anyone have any ideas on how this can be resolved? It can't be normal for it to take this much effort for low speed steering. Thanks
I used to have a 2004 silverado and it was so easy to steer that I was completely spoiled. I then moved to a Ram, then F150, and am now back in an 11 silverado and the steering is quite a bit more difficult than I would like. There is no real difference in effort required between idle speeds and highway speeds so i think something in the power steering sensor system might be faulty. I read that there is a speed sensor that adjust how much hydraulic fluid goes through the system based on vehicle speed. So steering is nice and easy in the parking lot, and more difficult at highway speeds to keep from oversteering and swerving. I could find a thread about someone actually fixing this kind of problem without just throwing parts at it. I don't really want to go through the hassle of replacing a power steering pump and draining all the fluid, etc... if there is something else more logical that could be causing this issue. There is no noise from the steering system, except for a slight rubber on metal squeak from the steering column but I can lube that later. For now i want to be able to steer very easily in the parking lot. Thoughts?
I replaced all of the battery cables today, snapped the positive terminal off the starter, so i has to install a new starter, and just for good measure i installed a roll up bed cover ;) After the new cables the engine runs much more steady, the AC blower doesn't fluctuate anymore and the cables never get anywhere close to warm after a start or while it is running. So I think that problem is fixed. After the cable swap I noticed that the voltmeter in the dash would fluctuate around. Sometimes it was pushing over 14v and others it was down to 10v. I couldn't figure out the rhyme or reason but I think after a few trips the voltmeter remained steady at 14v or slightly higher. I will check again tomorrow to see if it was just getting settled in due to low voltage in the battery because of the bad cables before, or if I have some issue with the alternator.
I haven't had a chance to get under the truck but it looks like the worst of those cables is the one that goes to the alternator. Do you think maybe something in the alternator is causing the short and that is what has fried that cable? I just ordered all new positive and negative cables for the replacement, but i don't want to install the new cable on the alternator if it will fry that cable too.
I just got this truck and have been weeding through the issues going on. The most annoying of them being the complete lack of electrical power that just randomly happens. I can't figure out which process fixes the problem at the moment...Wiggling the negative terminal or wiggling the possible terminals. The actual battery connections are very clean and tight but the wires are exposed through the jacketing which is burned off pretty bad. It was like this when i got it but I didn't notice it until the random no power issue first cropped up. I also can't tell for sure if the battery cables/terminals are getting EXTREMELY hot from the 100* heat index outside combined with engine heat while driving, but when the no power issue happens it feels like the positive cables are crazy hot and I can only hold them for a few seconds. The metal terminal is so hot that I can only tap it with my fingers. EDIT: I forgot to add some info...Today driving home I hit a pretty good size pothole and the truck lost all electrical power, motor shutoff, and then electronics turned back on 5 seconds later and so did the motor all by itself. I was driving about 60 mph when this happened and i just coasted until it turned back on. You could sense something was going on electrically because the AC blower speed would fluctuate and the motor didn't run quite as good as it normally does. I think something with the power/ground wires is breaking connection under bumpy conditions. Is this a common issue that is easily fixed or do i have big short somewhere that is causing this crazy heat? Here are some pictures that show how hot the cables have gotten...
I am new to the navigation world and my new to me 11 Silverado Texas Edition is missing the navigation disk. I don't want to buy a factory one for like $180 so i was looking into the ones on eBay... https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2011-GM-Navigation-DVD-Disk-20857425U-Version-4-1c-Cadillac-Chevrolet-GMC/273210815279?fits=Year%3A2011&epid=1034421897&hash=item3f9ca2332f:g:qEQAAMXQMmJRNi6A It says it is compatible but I was hoping someone on here would be able to reply with first hand knowledge. I was also wondering if there was a newer version that would have a more current road map loaded. I am in Jacksonville FL and new roads are popping up all over the place.
The best way I can describe the noise is as follows... You have a tongue in your trailer hitch receiver and are hooked up to a light trailer. You take your foot off the brake and there is no noise (because the trailer is light). You slightly touch the gas and you hear a metal on metal squeak as the tongue slides inside the hitch receiver, until the pin stops the tongue from sliding and there is a slight thud. Well I get this noise every time I leave a stop and press the gas when I am not towing anything. The tongue isn't even in the receiver. If I idle away from the stop there is no noise. It only happens after I hit the gas. Any ideas on things i should check out? EDIT: Sorry I totally forgot to mention that it was a 2002 Sierra 1500 4x4 5.3L
Well that wasn't too bad Total working time of 4 hrs The tie rod was very simple and the outer tie rod end was actually in very good shape so I just replaced the inner tie rod that was very loose. I measured the old and new rod distances to make sure they were dead on so I would have a pretty good alignment for the time being. The U-Joint was a bit of a PITA but I got it done. I really think the heat activated glue used to secure the u-joints in place is overkill and not needed. I hope I don't have another joint problem because it is a not fun to get the old joints out while all the metal is scorching hot. I tried using the small socket, large socket and bench vise to press the old joint out, but that just broke my vise. I then used a different vise large socket sledge hammer and an old nut to pound it out. That only took a coupe whacks to get it out. Lightly tapped the new ones in and went for a test drive.... Slight vibration is still there (due to warped rotors) but it is not at violent with the new tie rod, and the slack in my steering wheel has gotten much better. It tracks straight so the alignment is still good. The front driveshaft doesn't make a sound and the slight vibration I felt at 65 mph + has gone away. That is all for right now, and I will save up some more money to do the brakes soon and get rid of all vibrations hopefully! Zac
Ok after some research this seems pretty simple. I should already have all the tools needed for the u-joint replacement so I will get started today or tomorrow.
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