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About MartyW

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  • Interests
    Camping, Fishing
  • Drives
    1997 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4L
  1. Hi Gary, I finally got a day today with sun shining and over 50 degrees so I worked on the reservoir jar again and after working with it for a few minutes I decided to leave it for my friend at Chevy. It is working fine and it has quit leaking. I can tell when I pick up the jar a little that it still has quite a bit of fluid in it, so evidently there is a crack up on the jar, but the pump still works ok and the jar can still hold a good bit of fluid. When I removed the bolt from jar to left side of body and the small bolt from neck to forward bulkhead, the jar still will not come up more than half to three quarters of an inch. It feels like it is hitting something positive and solid. From the drawing it seems like the grommet is free now. My suspicion is that it may be attached to the bulkhead that holds the evap canister. In your pic there is a vertical slot on a jar flap and I wonder if that could be my problem. Its the only other thing I can figure. I look forward to hearing what my friend at Chevy says. Its hard for me to believe getting a washer reservoir out could be such a problem, ha ha.. Anyway, its working for now and I'll report back when I find out exactly what's holding it. Many thanks!
  2. Thanks Gary, that's great that you got it out! And great pics! Ok, so I'm guessing the nipple/grommet must be the only thing holding mine in place which makes sense since mine can be moved about sorta signifying it's being held in at one point only. And the grommet mount seems at about the right location where I could semi-rotate the jar. Maybe mine still has the rubber grommet that has gotten hard and stuck over the years. Mine looks identical to yours. It's still too cold here to work on mine outside, but they're predicting a warm up in a few days so I'll jump on it as soon as I can and report back. When I was pulling up & around on mine it felt like it had quite a bit of water still in it, but it has stopped leaking, so I'm figuring it either has a crack up on the jar or maybe leaking at the pump. Did you remove one of your pumps? Does it just pull out of a rubber grommet? Many thanks for the great pics!
  3. Much appreciated Gary. Its way too cold here for me to do anything before the weekend. On this one I'm not even sure where the pump is. On the older ones I used to work on I think I remember the pump being in the bottom of the reservoirs, but I couldn't tell from the LMC explosion just where the pump was on this one since there were three different jars shown with one pump sorta in the middle.
  4. I was looking at a parts explosion in a LMC truck catalog and the diagram shows a "grommit - mount" that receives a nipple on one of the bottom surfaces of the reservoir. That's the only thing they show that I didn't unhook. Sound familiar on yours?
  5. Thanks Gary. This is the front reservoir. I left the unused drivers side battery tray out so I could get to the reservoir easy when I learn the secret to getting it out, but the grille, uuch... On the next day with decent weather I'll see if I can find a front bolt. It didn't feel like there was a front bolt as the reservoir came up easily about an inch or so but then it would catch and didn't want to come up any more. I tried different angles as I was pulling up but no luck. Thanks again and I'll look to the front.
  6. I tried today to remove the washer fluid reservoir and it didn't seem to want to come out so I left it. I removed the drivers side battery tray and then the visible 2 top bolts holding the reservoir (one on neck and one into left side of body) but the reservoir only wanted to come up an inch or so. Rather than breaking something I left it. Can someone please pass along the secret to pulling that reservoir out and/or what is holding it? It is leaking. Motor still in bottom? Thanks in advance!
  7. The new control head has been installed!! Frustrating from lack of experience, but done!! I got the bezel out a few inches and got the 4x4 switch disconnected but never did figure out what to do with the light switch, so I left the light switch hooked up and rotated the bezel up on the right side to get to the radio stack area The old control head pieces shattered when I went to bend any tab for the uninstall, very brittle. The new one didn't want to go in on the left side but after trying multiple times I finally noticed the alignment prong was bent and not going into the left pilot hole. Once that was corrected, it went in and snapped tight. I now have an A/C light and some additional fan speeds. Still nothing at the compressor but now I think the power situation is fixed and ready to begin checking pressures, etc. Many thanks Gary & Chris for your help!
  8. Thanks Chris and Gary. Good to know! I'll see how brave I am when the new part comes in, ha ha....
  9. Thanks Grampadirt,and sorry for the double post. It didn't show up so I thought I didn't click the post button. Learning curve, I'll wait a while next time. Thanks again and I'll report back.
  10. Many thanks and I'll report back when the new head comes and I try the swap. Books say to remove battery ground cable but I think I've seen youtube videos where it is done with battery still hooked up?
  11. Many thanks and I'll report back when the new head comes and I try the swap. Books say to remove battery ground cable but I think I've seen youtube videos where it is done with battery still hooked up?
  12. Thanks, and one thing I'm not sure of. I didn't understand when you said "Put the key in run position,put the gearshift in low(1),turn the key off,..." Is the key put in run position just for the gearshift change, and then turned off? .
  13. Thanks Grampadit. Glad to hear you experienced problems with the head too. I've read so much about these things going bad in so many different ways that I went ahead and ordered a new one off eBay from a Chevy dealer for a good price. This will be the first time I've pulled the dash bezel off and I understand that you just start from the top and carefully pull it out off the clips, then put the tilt wheel and gear shift lever in the down position to finish pulling it out. Since you've changed the hvac head on the same model type, do you think there would be enough play once the bezel is out to change the hvac head without disconnecting the light switch and 4x4 switches? Mine has barn doors so no lift gate or rear wiper switches up higher (those 3 vertical spots are empty).
  14. My main question here is, does no light on the A/C button mean bad hvac control head? I've read a lot about these going bad. Our '98 Suburban had has many A/C issues over the years, including low pressure, but in all cases the A/C button light did come on when pushed. Thanks.
  15. I'm new to this forum and I just acquired a 1997 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4L for towing and the A/C isn't working. When I push the A/C button I get no light on the A/C button and nothing from the compressor/clutch. Same in defrost mode with full cold temp setting, nothing from the compressor/clutch. The other control head knobs & buttons seem to work properly. All A/C fuses are ok. Any pointers from folks knowledgeable with these A/C systems very much appreciated. Marty

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