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About GMCsierra06

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  1. Why are you making excuses for clearly subpar workmanship? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Just another gimmick to sell trucks. I wonder how much that tailgate costs if it’s damaged. Probably thousands. Plus, what kinda man can’t bother to lift their own tailgate lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’d expect a rattle free experience from a Rolls Royce, other than that, most vehicles will develop some noise while driving at some point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. It depends on how well they were packed with grease when manufacturered Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks for that information. I may still go ahead and put the pitman seal kit in just so I can stop the leaking long enough to order a new gearbox. I need my truck on the road and can’t really wait for a gearbox to ship. Seal kit should be here by next week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I appreciate this idea, but I really wanna do it right. I believe the seal kit comes with a diagram and instructions and I’ve seen a couple of YouTube videos on disassembly, but still looking for some literature on my specific gearbox.I plan on painting it with caliper paint to make it look new as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/097f4e5a074e7e12745974d9bef8ca39/8ab4297c42e01682ba409e03ce2d7d8e.png
  7. I believe mine has started to leak due to worn pitman arm, creating play in the center link. It just now started leaking, so I wanna fix it while my pitman arm and idler arm are out of the truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I’m looking for a guide or instruction manual on how to rebuild a power steering gearbox on a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4 crew cab. I ordered a seal kit, but I’ve never attempted this task and want all the information I can get prior to doing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. My 2006 Sierra needed new wheel bearings at 22,000 miles and it was covered under warranty. They would start to make clunking sounds at lower speeds. Just replaced them again at 180,000 miles. These didn’t make any noise until the driver side bearing got really bad and I had to stop driving it until I could order the replacements. Don’t go to the dealership if you’re warranty is up. They quoted me $800 per side to replace them. I did it myself for $470 for both sides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yeah I wouldn’t worry about corrosion. They’re made to be exposed to the elements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. That’s the boot that was included with the pair I ordered. It’s longer than necessary, but it functions as a boot should. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I’ve had the 5100s on my vehicle for over 50,000 miles and they’re in good shape without any corrosion. I live in Georgia and we rarely have to salt the roads here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Well I’m fairly certain I have an oil pump going bad and I believe the vibration could be coming from a damaged cam lobe/ lifter. I’ll be planning a to do a oil pump swap soon, but won’t be a small task, considering the front differential has to be removed to access the pan. Also have a bad steering idler arm and inner and outer tie rods will be changed as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No, my truck is completely stock apart from a leveling kit and larger 285/70R17 tires. The transmission is a stock remanufactured transmission and I believe it has a shift kit. 1-2 shifts do feel like there is a pause before the shift happens and it usually jerks into 2nd. When I first started driving it after the transmission was installed, 2-3 shift was clunky and made a grinding noise and now it’s just barely a shift at all, meaning it’s very light. Seems like the slipping happens when it hot outside. The colder weather seems to improve the shift quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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