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FishinDVM

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  1. I also would expect them to have a new type of injector... but no. Of course not. I specifically asked if there is a new model/type replacing the old?, but it's the same OEM. In other words, it's just like the AC condenser... why throw the same thing in there to have the same problem X miles down the road??? Its going to keep happening. ***They need a group of smart guys to make a new auto company***. Crazy right? But I'm serious. Think about this. Just give us a real frame, a LONG proven engine/transmission, real thick leather, and a cold AC. You can keep the park assist, alerts, lane detection, auto parking, heated steering wheels, TVs in the seats, chipping lead free paint, etc... etc... etc... I mean seriously. I CAN'T BE THE ONLY ONE WHO FEELS THIS WAY!?!?!?!?! Why should I and so many others want/need to go build a quality truck/SUV like this piece by piece, when a smart company could easily offer such a thing and sell the f**k out of it but they dont?
  2. 2014 Sierra 1500 AT 5.3/L83 @ 88K. So I'm still on powertrain warranty for 3 more months. Not done making payments yet. I do 0W-20 Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5K, 89 octane gas. I had a p050d and a p0308 on and off for a few weeks. Cleaned MAF, new PCV, cleaned throttle body, new air filter, BG 44k in gas, new plugs, new wires, swapped out coil packs, and finally a BG 3 part air/fuel cleaning for carbon deposits at a shop by my house... and codes still there... so off to the dealership it was. They said I needed new injectors on #7 and #8. I had them replace all 8 while there. As I'm sure you all know, it requires removing the intake to get to them, so it's a time consuming process that honestly I felt was outside of my usual skill set. Just thought I would share. Also, I have an AC condenser that leaks at the same weld spot as everyone elses. I know everyone has their own opinions on this, but I'll probably be leaving GM after this. I know all manufactures have their issues, but I'm north of 35 years old, have had a few vehicles, and dont recall so many SHARED PROBLEMS. Meaning, if I encounter an issue, sure enough I'll either see a service bulletin for it, or a ton of pages of people with the same thing. Rather than make this complicated, I'll keep it simple. People spending 50k on new vehicles shouldnt be shelling out $1000+ dollar repairs, for issues CLEARLY shared by MANY trucks, for a company that doesnt seem to be owning up to the problems at all, and you arent even done paying off your vehicle yet. Not only is this true, but if anything, GM went out of their way to make sure the injectors are NOT covered under the powertrain, and they recently DECREASED the powertrain on the 2016 and newer from 5yr/100k to 3yr(60 or 80k I believe?)... wonder why? For all those who defend GM, I would actually agree with you, IF... IF... IF... GM sold these vehicles like this: Here is your new truck, you must use 93 octane always, change the oil every 3K, install an oil catch can, perform a BG air/fuel cleaning every 15K miles, and oh yes, it's a great feature to have our engine go into V4 mode, but dont use it, dont use it ever... actually... run a tuner or program it out so it never ever goes into V4, eventhough it will alter your warranty by doing so. Do all this, and you might make it. You'll have vibrations, seat movement, and a leaking AC condenser like everyone else, that we wont help you with... but... the engine will be ok... or at least check back with us after 100k and we will see. If GM mentioned this from the start, then people deserve it. Actually, in the future, when this vehicle goes, unless they have a newer Truck model/company that has proven super reliable, I'm gonna get one of the old 1980s model suburbans, find a frame with minimal to no rust and just spend the money to replace everything... new engine, trans, bucket leather seats, AC, etc... and when it's all said and done I'll still have an easy 25k left over on something that will actually last.
  3. I am similar to your problems... I'd love to know what you figured out???
  4. Hey guys, 2014 5.3 Sierra AT with 85k on it. Codes on it are as follows: - p050d, p0451 - These have been on and off for about 2 or 3 weeks now. Not always there, when cleared they came back but only after a day or two, certainly not every drive. I didnt actually notice a "rough idle" until this past week though. Again, not all the time, but a few times. - Stabilitrak service - Came on 2 weeks ago, never repeated after cleared, so far at least. - p0300, p0308 - These just happened. Random misfire 2 days ago. Cylinder 8 today. When these happened, the CEL light flashed and I also got a U0401. I noticed that while these codes were active, the truck would downshift hard. Basically, I'd feel an extra 'thud' when applying the brake gently and slowing from like 20mph to 5mph, it felt the the transmission dropped into a low gear too soon. That's just how it FELT to me anyways. But while these codes were active, it would repeat every time I was slowing down at low speed I'd get that 'thud'... every time... I just cleared it now, drove around, not happening once the CEL light is off, driving fine at least for this current second. - I assume I'm going through oil faster too... since the "engine oil low add oil" light came on for the first time ever about 3 weeks ago... and I'm at about 39% oil life according to my computer (which is accurate, I added 8 quarts myself in mid February). Now, I do oil changes when my computer gets down to around 25%, 8 quarts full synthetic mobil 1. I have cleaned MAF, throttle body, new battery, new oil/filter, new air filter, all back in February. Here are my questions: 1) Part of me wants to replace all the spark plugs and coil packs and see what happens. The other part of me wants to take it to the dealership in case it is injector/AFM/lifter related. Thoughts on the possible causes? 2) I assume I am still on powertrain warranty? I bought my 2014 in SEPTEMBER of 2014 NEW and I currently have 85k. So I didnt break the 100k mark and I assume the warranty starts on the DATE OF PURCHASE so I have til September? They didnt drop the warranty to 60k until the year 2016 models correct? 3) If it is a lifter, would it make sense for a p0308? My thought was that if its AFM V4 related it would be one of the others. I dont remember the numbers but I want to say cylinder 8 isnt one of them, but the p0300 random certainly could fit this? Now 2 things I have NOT been doing. And of course in retrospect I should have done my research and figured this out long ago for preventative maintenance. I didnt shut off my AFM all this time, and... I havent done anything to decarbonize the intakes. While having a manual cleaning and shutting off the AFM are now on my list, I figure I'll have to solve this first. Thanks for the input, Chris.
  5. Hey guys, 2014 5.3 Sierra AT with 85k on it. Codes on it are as follows: - p050d, p0451 - These have been on and off for about 2 or 3 weeks now. Not always there, when cleared they came back but only after a day or two, certainly not every drive. I didnt actually notice a "rough idle" until this past week though. Again, not all the time, but a few times. - Stabilitrak service - Came on 2 weeks ago, never repeated after cleared, so far at least. - p0300, p0308 - These just happened. Random misfire 2 days ago. Cylinder 8 today. When these happened, the CEL light flashed and I also got a U0401. I noticed that while these codes were active, the truck would downshift hard. Basically, I'd feel an extra 'thud' when applying the brake gently and slowing from like 20mph to 5mph, it felt the the transmission dropped into a low gear too soon. That's just how it FELT to me anyways. But while these codes were active, it would repeat every time I was slowing down at low speed I'd get that 'thud'... every time... I just cleared it now, drove around, not happening once the CEL light is off, driving fine at least for this current second. - I assume I'm going through oil faster too... since the "engine oil low add oil" light came on for the first time ever about 3 weeks ago... and I'm at about 39% oil life according to my computer (which is accurate, I added 8 quarts myself in mid February). Now, I do oil changes when my computer gets down to around 25%, 8 quarts full synthetic mobil 1. I have cleaned MAF, throttle body, new battery, new oil/filter, new air filter, all back in February. Here are my questions: 1) Part of me wants to replace all the spark plugs and coil packs and see what happens. The other part of me wants to take it to the dealership in case it is injector/AFM/lifter related. Thoughts on the possible causes? 2) I assume I am still on powertrain warranty? I bought my 2014 in SEPTEMBER of 2014 NEW and I currently have 85k. So I didnt break the 100k mark and I assume the warranty starts on the DATE OF PURCHASE so I have til September? They didnt drop the warranty to 60k until the year 2016 models correct? 3) If it is a lifter, would it make sense for a p0308? My thought was that if its AFM V4 related it would be one of the others. I dont remember the numbers but I want to say cylinder 8 isnt one of them, but the p0300 random certainly could fit this? Now 2 things I have NOT been doing. And of course in retrospect I should have done my research and figured this out long ago for preventative maintenance. I didnt shut off my AFM all this time, and... I havent done anything to decarbonize the intakes. While having a manual cleaning and shutting off the AFM are now on my list, I figure I'll have to solve this first. Thanks for the input, Chris.
  6. Ok... dont beat on me too much here for all the things I didnt do and should have done. But... I have a 2014 GMC Sierra at 80k and I have NEVER done anything to the intake valves, no CRC, no seafoam, no BG GDI, nothing. I have done full synthetic oil changes at appropriate times, techron fuel cleaner here and there, new air filter, MAF and throttle body cleanings, etc.... but not the intakes. Anyhow, truck has been SLIGHTLY slower, using a little more oil, SLIGHTLY more vibration at idle, and last few weeks I have gotten a "cold start rough idle" code, and a random misfire code, on/off (it happened twice). Mechanic friend down the street who I trust and have used forever found nothing specific but recommended I had the valves decarbonized. So... the question is... AT THIS LATE STAGE OF THE GAME... 80K MILES... what would you do? I fear the CRC or Seafoam thing would create more problems with the large deposits coming off. I have called a few places looking for the BG GDI cleaning, but all the places BG lists only offer a fuel system cleaning and NOT the back of the intake valves directly. I called the dealership who of course would do it manually, but they want $600. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to do this? I feel this is above the DIY job for me. In the future, sure, I'll do a seafoam or crc in the intake just prior to oil changes and maybe do a catch can as well, but AT THIS POINT, what would you do? Thanks, Chris
  7. I thank you for posting the video, which I have watched. And I agree if I could go back in time I would have done this every 10 or 15k miles... but my question is NOW that I am at 80k I feel like this wouldnt be beneficial anymore? I feel as though I would have so much build up having NEVER done it that large pieces would come loose and cause me more problems than it's worth. So my options are do nothing, pay big bucks to have someone take it apart and manually clean, or find a good BG GDI shop where they soak the valves for 30 min or so each and scrape/vacuum out the build up. Right? Now that I think about it, I have running worse on my highway MPG than I ever recall... and no noticeable problems otherwise.
  8. If anyone recommends a BG GDI intake cleaning shop on long island that will actually do a good job, please let me know. Thanks, Chris.
  9. Hey guys, 2014 GMC SRT A/T 5.3... I havent had many of the listed/common problems yet... with the flowing exceptions being as follows: Paint adhesion sucks on these trucks and I dont do auto carwash places because of it (chips). My "leather" seats crack and chip as well. I have seen a "service stabitrak" once or twice. And lastly, my AC condenser has a leak at the EXACT SAME SPOT AS EVERYONE ELSES (clearly this is a problem WIDESPREAD THAT GM SHOULD BE ADMITTING and it pisses me off). But other than that, nothing horrible with engine, trans, vibration, etc... I drive a lot, I'm just over 80k miles now. I have changed transmission fluid, air filters, oil filters, oil changes with Mobil 1 full synthetic as regularly recommended, differential/transfer case fluid change, new tires/brakes/rotors, Techron fuel inj cleaner in gas, etc/maybe a couple others?... What I have NOT done... and dont attack me too much over this... apparently I should have been doing some MAF, throttle body, valve care every 10k-20k miles. I HAVE NOT. So... this weekend... I'm due for another oil change. Prior to, I'm going to do the MAF and throttle body. MY QUESTION is what to do about the valve build up AT THIS POINT???... being that I just cleared 80,000 miles and probably have a significant amount. Is a manual cleaning my only option now??? I feel like CRC GDI IVD treatment would possibly cause me problems being this late??? Do I risk cat damage this late??? I guess I'm asking what would you be doing other than telling my you would have done it like 4 to 7 times by now? Thank you. Chris.
  10. Sorry no pics (yet)... I am about to make a few purchases and had a question. I have a 2014 A/T crew cab with stock 20" rims. After lots of research on here, I am decided on a 2" front only level (leaving the rear 100% stock), and the BFG AT KO2's. The question I have is in regards to tire size. I am between 275/60/20 and 275/65/20. My understanding is the 60's have plenty of room and the 65's just BARELY do it, but will NOT rub. Is this correct? Anyone have pics of the same vehicle and setup? Any chance of a wider tire (285s) getting in there without rubbing? Thanks for the time... I have searched the forums dozens of times before, to decide on brand of level, size of level, and type of tire... but figured I'd ask for something this specific... and the pages for some of these are incredibly long and time consuming now. Thank you!
  11. Have an undercover SE on a 2014 GMC sierra AT... no complaints until it started to leak around the lockset. There is a black rubber seal ring that stretches a full 360 deg around the lockset to slide in between the lock and cover. It eventually wore down / cracked (sun exposure?) and now it's leaking. Sure I could just apply silicone around the whole thing, but as soon as you go to turn the lock the sealant would be broken. I can't find this replacement part on the website. Anyone have this issue or know where to get another sealant ring of similar size? Thanks... Chris
  12. Hello, I have a GMC 2014 Crew Cab Short Bed A/T with a *HARD TONNEAU* by Undercover (which I love BTW). Anyhow, I am curious if anyone has mounted any fishing rod holders DIRECTLY ON THE HARD TONNEAU or if anyone has mounted them on the roof of the cab on this type of truck (seems like very little real estate to work with up there). Any thoughts or pictures? Thanks! Chris
  13. I have a 2014 GMC sierra A/T with an Undercover SE hard tonneau on it now. I am looking at putting in an AMP research xtender HD and was curious if it will clear/fit the tonneau brackets as is??? Or... do I need special brackets? Or will the Sport version of the xtender do just fine? Thanks for the replies, Chris. Oh... as a review... the hard undercover SE tonneau has been great so far... no complaints and looks good too. I didn't do the painted version as I have iridium metallic and the stock color matches well... fyi.
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