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FishinDVM

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About FishinDVM

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  1. 2014 Sierra 1500 5.3L V8 @97k and no CELs. So, I dont smell it that often, mainly because I drive it all the time and probably am used to it, but anytime my wife and kids get in the car they immediately notice it. To the point of wanting to lower a window. It is worse at START UP, and also when idling for a while. You will not notice it while driving. The only time I pick up on it is right after remotely starting the vehicle, when I first open the door and get in. As I drive, it gradually goes away. Now I have smelled a view things in my day, hot burning oil, pure gasoline, exhaust, diff oil... to me, I think it smells like exhaust, possibly some mix of gas as a 2nd place option. I will admit though, that smell identification isnt exactly my strongest skill. Anyhow, I have changed oil, rear diff, transfer case, front diff, and trans pan fluids all within the last month. Didnt find any issues so far, and this smell has been there for a few months now. I would like to know, otherthan a manifold leak or leak between the manifold and cats (which is what I'm going to check next), what else IT COULD BE??? I have sent some oil out to Blackstone to check for gas or coolant, my results are still pending. I also have changed the cabin air filter and didnt notice anything wrong. I plead ignorance on knowing where exactly the vehicle is pulling the cabin air in from however??? Does it come from the passenger side just below the wipers? Is there anything there I should be checking? I did notice a gap, on the passenger side, low, and behind the battery, between the side wall and what looks like firewall material... I added a picture... any thoughts would be appreciated... Thank you, Chris
  2. Sorry to drag up an old post, but I just sent a sample out to blackstone. 2014 5.3L Sierra 1500 L83 @ 97K miles. My question is, when the results come back, is ANY gasoline considered a problem? Or at what percentage are we saying it is too high that we need to start looking for a fuel system cause? Thanks, Chris.
  3. Hey guys, 2014 Sierra 1500 5.3 L83 A/T... 95K and just cleared 5 years... I am passed the 5yr/100k warranty so I don't care what the stealership thinks about tunes. I have already had the unfortunate circumstance of fuel injectors (along with some more minor GM scumbag issues like seat movement and AC condenser leaking at the same spot as the other 10K people). Anyhow, I'm tired of running in M5 all the time. I decided on blackbear and dont want anything overly fancy. I'm looking for killing AFM/V4 off, improving transmission shifting, and a better throttle response. My question is, is there a way to do this for under $600? I thought I read somewhere that someone did this through blackbear for less, I just forget how. Is buying a used AutoCal my only option? I am assuming blackbear wont take one back as a one time use and return right? I dont want to keep anything, I dont want the hardware, I wont ever need to set it back for the dealership's concerns, and I wont be changing my mind to calibrate for some other feature (fuel economy, towing, whatever). I just want a one and done. Anyone have thoughts/suggestions? I doubt anyone is on long island and has one to borrow. Thanks, Chris
  4. 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 L83 @ 95k. So, I have been noticing a strange smell in the cab right after start up, or when idling at a light. Not horrible, not every time... its subtle, and when I do pick up on it, its difficult to place. I have smelled burning oil, exhaust, and gasoline in my days... and while I think it fits in that category somewhere, it doesnt match either of those perfectly. I was leaning towards transmission fluid when hot, or differential fluid when hot, simply because im not familiar with the smell of either. So, I read somewhere that someone else had a similar issue and had low level diff oil or a slow leak, so I figured its probably time to change them all anyways as I have never done it. So, I changed my oil, rear diff, transfer case, and front diff fluids the other day. All of that went fine, but I came across the issue, I believe, while under there. What I found, was a small/slow leak built up on the skid plate / underbody shield. It is on the passenger side, behind the radiator, but in front of anything differential related. When I looked up, a few hoses had "oil stained" connections. The fluid was a lightish brown/orange color? Tiny amount. The main source seems to be where a "crimp looking" joint connects black rubber tubing to aluminum tubing. I know nothing about oil cooler and tanny cooler lines, but if I follow this tubing forward, it inserts into the lower drivers side of the radiator. I have attached some pictures. I'm guessing they are tranny cooler lines? If so, is leaking at the crimp connection a common problem? Also, I have an AC condenser leak at the same spot as everyone else... the weld on the dorsal drivers side. I assume, as long as Im ok not having AC, its ok to wait on this? Just to clarify, the AC condenser is strictly AC and doesnt communicate directly with anything else right? I only ask because I have ignored that issue for a while now thinking it wasnt an urgent fix, so im hoping it doesnt have some sort of dual purpose. Back on topic, as for clarification on the oil/tranny cooler line photos, I'm all ears. Thank you, Chris
  5. I also would expect them to have a new type of injector... but no. Of course not. I specifically asked if there is a new model/type replacing the old?, but it's the same OEM. In other words, it's just like the AC condenser... why throw the same thing in there to have the same problem X miles down the road??? Its going to keep happening. ***They need a group of smart guys to make a new auto company***. Crazy right? But I'm serious. Think about this. Just give us a real frame, a LONG proven engine/transmission, real thick leather, and a cold AC. You can keep the park assist, alerts, lane detection, auto parking, heated steering wheels, TVs in the seats, chipping lead free paint, etc... etc... etc... I mean seriously. I CAN'T BE THE ONLY ONE WHO FEELS THIS WAY!?!?!?!?! Why should I and so many others want/need to go build a quality truck/SUV like this piece by piece, when a smart company could easily offer such a thing and sell the f**k out of it but they dont?
  6. 2014 Sierra 1500 AT 5.3/L83 @ 88K. So I'm still on powertrain warranty for 3 more months. Not done making payments yet. I do 0W-20 Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5K, 89 octane gas. I had a p050d and a p0308 on and off for a few weeks. Cleaned MAF, new PCV, cleaned throttle body, new air filter, BG 44k in gas, new plugs, new wires, swapped out coil packs, and finally a BG 3 part air/fuel cleaning for carbon deposits at a shop by my house... and codes still there... so off to the dealership it was. They said I needed new injectors on #7 and #8. I had them replace all 8 while there. As I'm sure you all know, it requires removing the intake to get to them, so it's a time consuming process that honestly I felt was outside of my usual skill set. Just thought I would share. Also, I have an AC condenser that leaks at the same weld spot as everyone elses. I know everyone has their own opinions on this, but I'll probably be leaving GM after this. I know all manufactures have their issues, but I'm north of 35 years old, have had a few vehicles, and dont recall so many SHARED PROBLEMS. Meaning, if I encounter an issue, sure enough I'll either see a service bulletin for it, or a ton of pages of people with the same thing. Rather than make this complicated, I'll keep it simple. People spending 50k on new vehicles shouldnt be shelling out $1000+ dollar repairs, for issues CLEARLY shared by MANY trucks, for a company that doesnt seem to be owning up to the problems at all, and you arent even done paying off your vehicle yet. Not only is this true, but if anything, GM went out of their way to make sure the injectors are NOT covered under the powertrain, and they recently DECREASED the powertrain on the 2016 and newer from 5yr/100k to 3yr(60 or 80k I believe?)... wonder why? For all those who defend GM, I would actually agree with you, IF... IF... IF... GM sold these vehicles like this: Here is your new truck, you must use 93 octane always, change the oil every 3K, install an oil catch can, perform a BG air/fuel cleaning every 15K miles, and oh yes, it's a great feature to have our engine go into V4 mode, but dont use it, dont use it ever... actually... run a tuner or program it out so it never ever goes into V4, eventhough it will alter your warranty by doing so. Do all this, and you might make it. You'll have vibrations, seat movement, and a leaking AC condenser like everyone else, that we wont help you with... but... the engine will be ok... or at least check back with us after 100k and we will see. If GM mentioned this from the start, then people deserve it. Actually, in the future, when this vehicle goes, unless they have a newer Truck model/company that has proven super reliable, I'm gonna get one of the old 1980s model suburbans, find a frame with minimal to no rust and just spend the money to replace everything... new engine, trans, bucket leather seats, AC, etc... and when it's all said and done I'll still have an easy 25k left over on something that will actually last.
  7. I am similar to your problems... I'd love to know what you figured out???
  8. Hey guys, 2014 5.3 Sierra AT with 85k on it. Codes on it are as follows: - p050d, p0451 - These have been on and off for about 2 or 3 weeks now. Not always there, when cleared they came back but only after a day or two, certainly not every drive. I didnt actually notice a "rough idle" until this past week though. Again, not all the time, but a few times. - Stabilitrak service - Came on 2 weeks ago, never repeated after cleared, so far at least. - p0300, p0308 - These just happened. Random misfire 2 days ago. Cylinder 8 today. When these happened, the CEL light flashed and I also got a U0401. I noticed that while these codes were active, the truck would downshift hard. Basically, I'd feel an extra 'thud' when applying the brake gently and slowing from like 20mph to 5mph, it felt the the transmission dropped into a low gear too soon. That's just how it FELT to me anyways. But while these codes were active, it would repeat every time I was slowing down at low speed I'd get that 'thud'... every time... I just cleared it now, drove around, not happening once the CEL light is off, driving fine at least for this current second. - I assume I'm going through oil faster too... since the "engine oil low add oil" light came on for the first time ever about 3 weeks ago... and I'm at about 39% oil life according to my computer (which is accurate, I added 8 quarts myself in mid February). Now, I do oil changes when my computer gets down to around 25%, 8 quarts full synthetic mobil 1. I have cleaned MAF, throttle body, new battery, new oil/filter, new air filter, all back in February. Here are my questions: 1) Part of me wants to replace all the spark plugs and coil packs and see what happens. The other part of me wants to take it to the dealership in case it is injector/AFM/lifter related. Thoughts on the possible causes? 2) I assume I am still on powertrain warranty? I bought my 2014 in SEPTEMBER of 2014 NEW and I currently have 85k. So I didnt break the 100k mark and I assume the warranty starts on the DATE OF PURCHASE so I have til September? They didnt drop the warranty to 60k until the year 2016 models correct? 3) If it is a lifter, would it make sense for a p0308? My thought was that if its AFM V4 related it would be one of the others. I dont remember the numbers but I want to say cylinder 8 isnt one of them, but the p0300 random certainly could fit this? Now 2 things I have NOT been doing. And of course in retrospect I should have done my research and figured this out long ago for preventative maintenance. I didnt shut off my AFM all this time, and... I havent done anything to decarbonize the intakes. While having a manual cleaning and shutting off the AFM are now on my list, I figure I'll have to solve this first. Thanks for the input, Chris.
  9. Hey guys, 2014 5.3 Sierra AT with 85k on it. Codes on it are as follows: - p050d, p0451 - These have been on and off for about 2 or 3 weeks now. Not always there, when cleared they came back but only after a day or two, certainly not every drive. I didnt actually notice a "rough idle" until this past week though. Again, not all the time, but a few times. - Stabilitrak service - Came on 2 weeks ago, never repeated after cleared, so far at least. - p0300, p0308 - These just happened. Random misfire 2 days ago. Cylinder 8 today. When these happened, the CEL light flashed and I also got a U0401. I noticed that while these codes were active, the truck would downshift hard. Basically, I'd feel an extra 'thud' when applying the brake gently and slowing from like 20mph to 5mph, it felt the the transmission dropped into a low gear too soon. That's just how it FELT to me anyways. But while these codes were active, it would repeat every time I was slowing down at low speed I'd get that 'thud'... every time... I just cleared it now, drove around, not happening once the CEL light is off, driving fine at least for this current second. - I assume I'm going through oil faster too... since the "engine oil low add oil" light came on for the first time ever about 3 weeks ago... and I'm at about 39% oil life according to my computer (which is accurate, I added 8 quarts myself in mid February). Now, I do oil changes when my computer gets down to around 25%, 8 quarts full synthetic mobil 1. I have cleaned MAF, throttle body, new battery, new oil/filter, new air filter, all back in February. Here are my questions: 1) Part of me wants to replace all the spark plugs and coil packs and see what happens. The other part of me wants to take it to the dealership in case it is injector/AFM/lifter related. Thoughts on the possible causes? 2) I assume I am still on powertrain warranty? I bought my 2014 in SEPTEMBER of 2014 NEW and I currently have 85k. So I didnt break the 100k mark and I assume the warranty starts on the DATE OF PURCHASE so I have til September? They didnt drop the warranty to 60k until the year 2016 models correct? 3) If it is a lifter, would it make sense for a p0308? My thought was that if its AFM V4 related it would be one of the others. I dont remember the numbers but I want to say cylinder 8 isnt one of them, but the p0300 random certainly could fit this? Now 2 things I have NOT been doing. And of course in retrospect I should have done my research and figured this out long ago for preventative maintenance. I didnt shut off my AFM all this time, and... I havent done anything to decarbonize the intakes. While having a manual cleaning and shutting off the AFM are now on my list, I figure I'll have to solve this first. Thanks for the input, Chris.
  10. Ok... dont beat on me too much here for all the things I didnt do and should have done. But... I have a 2014 GMC Sierra at 80k and I have NEVER done anything to the intake valves, no CRC, no seafoam, no BG GDI, nothing. I have done full synthetic oil changes at appropriate times, techron fuel cleaner here and there, new air filter, MAF and throttle body cleanings, etc.... but not the intakes. Anyhow, truck has been SLIGHTLY slower, using a little more oil, SLIGHTLY more vibration at idle, and last few weeks I have gotten a "cold start rough idle" code, and a random misfire code, on/off (it happened twice). Mechanic friend down the street who I trust and have used forever found nothing specific but recommended I had the valves decarbonized. So... the question is... AT THIS LATE STAGE OF THE GAME... 80K MILES... what would you do? I fear the CRC or Seafoam thing would create more problems with the large deposits coming off. I have called a few places looking for the BG GDI cleaning, but all the places BG lists only offer a fuel system cleaning and NOT the back of the intake valves directly. I called the dealership who of course would do it manually, but they want $600. Does anyone have a suggestion for how to do this? I feel this is above the DIY job for me. In the future, sure, I'll do a seafoam or crc in the intake just prior to oil changes and maybe do a catch can as well, but AT THIS POINT, what would you do? Thanks, Chris
  11. I thank you for posting the video, which I have watched. And I agree if I could go back in time I would have done this every 10 or 15k miles... but my question is NOW that I am at 80k I feel like this wouldnt be beneficial anymore? I feel as though I would have so much build up having NEVER done it that large pieces would come loose and cause me more problems than it's worth. So my options are do nothing, pay big bucks to have someone take it apart and manually clean, or find a good BG GDI shop where they soak the valves for 30 min or so each and scrape/vacuum out the build up. Right? Now that I think about it, I have running worse on my highway MPG than I ever recall... and no noticeable problems otherwise.
  12. If anyone recommends a BG GDI intake cleaning shop on long island that will actually do a good job, please let me know. Thanks, Chris.
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