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Everything posted by barry G
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fuel pump installed My dad paused at the end of the driveway on my rural road, at 80 feet long in a kw900. I knew he was coming, the jake brake shakes the valley of this little town. The door pops open, and I pluck the biggest manliest generator at 63cc needing two stroke oil.. I have ever seen. Cut the hole with a drill, jig saw..and stuff runs real smooth on a generator, ever noticed? I did buy that generator..for 70 bucks. Reminded me of working airplanes. Self sustaining wherever the hell you landed. I also may have found the pump killer... an old nail was hanging out of the rear left tire. Got a fresh plug in. I am keeping the old Coopers, not made anymore, for the duration of welding chores. Tires gain a blister sometimes, the energy of welding. By fall, a set of 5 that does not go extinct as soon as you buy them. I am thinking goodyear wrangler, or a bf goodrich something. The fuel pump lid was very old, the vent tube nearly had a hole in it. A splice on the original ground, reveal at least 2 pumps in the past. The sending unit has a burn mark, at near empty setting. At least four 20 something belows and a record breaking winter written... I have no complaints getting the whole new setup installed. I noticed the stickers on top..this Carter 80001S can be used for any 96 and later vortec. 4.3L to 454.
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weld and fuel pump cracked a door jam, and spider'd fractures at the latch pin. Gave it a weld. less than perfect, but doing the job for now. I was joking that I did not unhook the battery...wonder'd what was going to get the static bomb later. I am very familiar with welding and steel failures in maine (it is not in a book exactly). Sure enough, got home, liking the quiet ride, good looking door alignments... went to start today, no fuel pump. thanks to the net, I got a 2 day delivery on the way. I bought the entire assembly, as Carter brand. I am hoping the brass bearings makes a little noise. Delphi was in the same price range, and am aware of the parts groupy argument for this truck. Carter does alright by me. the other items I am awaiting are the top door seam by LMC truck. there is two versions for 88-98, and this trucks factory seal looks like neither one offered. Will have the side of the windshields plastic trim pulled back up, and the new seals in soon enough. blew out a nest by the ecm, painted inner fender well. I just knew something was going to get a ground change. It chose the ever convenient to get to, fuel pump of all things. I am very tempted to rip a hole through the bed..but won't.
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1996 4x4 5 liter nv3500 3.73 oil cooler, functioning factory bypass with billet filter (I would not have bothered without that factory relief working). Towing a 1987 subaru, car dolly. Advice to keep it out of overdrive, had to stay at car dolly limit of 55 anyway. 36 miles highway, 16 miles back road. 22mpg. it is nearly the same loaded or empty. I bought it in january, have not seen spring weather yet. a recent 60F day has it in the middle 20s mpg. Lugging like a tractor trailer @ 2100 = 72mph. I also found the tranny shaft is 84mm. Not exactly small is it. Not sure who or what makes a wimp of those..but they must be mentally challenged with gear fluid of the wrong kind. I'd tug at a kenworth with it...factory gm fluid.
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1 door pin, 4 bushings my brother and I tackled this. We analyzed one bent pin, 4 bad bushings. The bent pin was also worn at one end, beyond the bushing. I had a steel one as brand new, zinc coated. It seems the original are like an aluminum, or soft..does not seem like steel. so, back together, a little bit tougher than 18 years and 300k miles. The rains after more than 90 days will be coming through, had to get this done. my bro-n-law has been a gm truck guru since the late 80s. He also drives a black extra cab to this day. Much newer than mine. He has had many. I had no idea he had one before I bought mine. It was a funny thing to catch onto when I pulled in for the first time...two black extra cab 4x4, in the family. Anyway, he had the spring tool, exactly right for the trucks doors since 1988, made easy work of this. the passenger side has been redone by somebody else, and spring is not installed. I am slapping in a spring from a 1985 subaru cylinder head, calling it good. the bigger chore for the day was putting the pennzoil 1qt jug pump to use, and flushing tranny out for genuine gm fluid. This was extremely costly given the quantity of just 3 quarts.. but I know better being a former quick lube man. It has to have it. Sure enough, the fluid in it was from someone with a 1.95 to spend on the wrong fluid. I am glad to get that out of there. This place at night still gets quite chilly, so cryogenics wins the case upon the super slick of real fluid. I noticed shifting is very nice and easy now...idle noise in neutral subsides with time. Any load at all is like brand new. Between the doors in the right spot, and the tranny lube. I have never been in a truck that was so close to a cadillac ever. And I am not even done yet. up next is eight cab mounts, by energy suspension.
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as mentioned in previous post.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131330348902 the polyurethane mounts. I almost got the standard cab set, and would have been perturbed at a couple of them missing.. gotta pay attention. extended cab has a couple of more than standard. the brand is Energy Suspension.
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more amp drops. some might have guessed a genuine gmc has a unique lighting sometimes. the way blinkers work, or the edges of dash lights flicker down on their own. Some think its a silent genius. I know to look over everything closely. Found the old commander electric brake and unhooked that completely..this means auxiliary bolt underhood, and the molex under dash, removed it from truck. The cold start was just as robust as modern as a 6.2. It shot up to 1300 and worked down quickly. It had a problem I guess, with the commander gadget. I also unhooked a large red wired in photo, left dangling for some amplifier. got a door pin and bushings in the mail, decided i needed 2, and the weather is headed for 5F in the middle of march, so standing back awhile more. I also go the official title in the mail and intuition proved true. The odometer is "exempt", this is legal for doubted and ok. (I knew it was not the miles - I have been around used vehicles too long) ..and I also found the polyurethane cab mounts complete, brand name, 70 bucks. Always wanted to try those. Nitrile disappears random here in my locale..and it is not salt to blame. Could be exceeding cold temp value, my only guess. The ones in the truck are holding up, but cracked. It is not just gm with the tropical rubbers. Everything I have owned needed them too young. dialing in equal length plug wires, first day above 32F, I opted to floor it to 4600 rpm on maines 75mph highway. This truck is surprisingly fast and powerful. fuel mileage changed, I am glad i did that. A glimpse at the sidewalls in a peculiar angle of the sun has little dimples like you see on dragsters..all four Cooper tires. It is not my imagination..this truck is quick enough to need high tire ratings. I will be stepping those up to 116 sidewall and T speed, white lettered, same size. For now, lots of miles left, will go along with them good. I am into photography, First photo was in 2004, 1megapixel. Mostly machinery, never people. According to google stats, I have uploaded 3900+ photos since 2007. anyway, this is my favorite photo of the truck thus far. The salt line revealed on a frigid day. I have a 36 mile ride to the city, and I admit, I am no slow poke getting there. Both sides are exactly symmetrical. Reminded me of a serpent or dragon. I wonder if anyone airbrushed designs like that on their truck, after winter did something art like.
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accel 8.8 300+ wires cut to equal length, added the ends. Used factory boots for the disty side. the plug side is very rugged, I like this version of wires. also made the coil wire..gave it a few more inches than oem. Used factory ends and boots. I bought the wires for something else a few years ago. good thing I dug in, as I found two broken boots, and seeming quite old. I felt some hitching last evening.. first intuition upon sight of the 1/4 inch oem wires was to throw them away. I do this for all my projects. I go as far as keeping ends or boots if need be. This vortec does not have in kits what I want exactly. The 8.8 is good and hefty, leaving future coil options endless. This change was very noticable. No ticking in the exhaust to notice. This is a very robust setup already with the e-core coil, computer controlled. These plug wires are right at home. No desire to upgrade anything else, just the wires. Idle dropped to 700...and all the stuff that goes with good wires. I think something may have been blipping the oil sending unit, as that seems a little smoother as well.
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28F today in the sun. Tackled a hot heater motor the other day, i knew it was young. . popped some rivets to get it apart (very familiar routine), added some synthetic grease, aligned and back together. makes a great spare to recover one that has been sprung. A lot less vibration...just not perfect. Greasing the motors also gives an indication of how much airflow was missing before and after. I loved this heater on first impression, now it is even better. I found one on ebay with a 10 year warranty. Knowing what it takes to make a long lasting one, I gave them a try, and have it in the mail. www.ebay.com/itm/370922086365 I also got the obd2 scanner, read up on how the gm models work. cleared a fake code for o2 heater (also very common here), and noticably gained power, and mpg. 22mpg like a rock. My bro-n-law had one of these in the 90s, and he predicted it right on the money. inspecting things closer, will get all the cross sills for the bed, and some replacement rockers in as a fresh base for my custom chores that follow. other than that, best purchase I have ever gone through. In 1996, i bought a genuine 1984 monte carlo SS, the differences of that 1 year are never forgotten..but anyway, those came with an "H.O. 305", this truck is near identical in feel and power, except for the extra in the slippery manual tranny. I am loving that fifth gear...and the injection. I must confess, I believe it is amazing. This exact version of whatever they have done. I love it. one last quibble, and I have the same complaint from a tiny 80s subaru to my dads kenworth w900... the shifter. it is never right for my ...stature is the word I guess. I am either leaning to the right or leaning forward. Looking around for an extension, angled back. I did try something different, make my foot press clutch all the way in, and leave the seat there. When I sit back, get comfortable..the shifter is very close to good, but I do lean a little. I am only 5 foot 9, just peculiar. I have had two single cab trucks, my only complaint was not being able to lean seat back. I was looking forward to the extended cab, no extra doors opening. Glad I found this.
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obd2 scanner, a car wash, and first 1000 miles been almost a month. Record breaking cold, average mean temp for more than 30 days is at 5F for my region. Several 20 something belows, the coldest being -26F. 100 inches in the formal numbers for snow. Have not seen above freezing since December. Seems next week a 38F is in the forecast. The quick sale of this old gmc has proved itself. I would not recommend that to anybody...near dusk sale, get a listen to the engine and go with your intuition after some finger taps. It is not bragging to go through 22 vehicles in maine. I know vehicles blindfolded. ..real shame. looking forward to the obd2 checking, very easy. I stayed old school since 1987. Loved the challenge, still have a 1 barrel rochester sitting on a ten geared subaru. I just started the other day. The new engine I built is so cold, I cannot get a burn in temperature. This means ground loop, lack of alternator. I gained some unique unforgettable skills here. I am also making a point to go with iron engines only. First car wash, as I bought it dirty. Getting a closer look at things, as I am a welder, engine builder... I do it all. The to do list is most impressive for what I have paid for this truck. flat stock to refurbish bed sills, and two rocker panels started off fresh to add my own custom finishes. banged the one dent out of the door to make it seem a little less dent. I have determined this particular dent will never come out to be beautiful. May as well get a fairly straight line out of the bottom of the door. A door shell would be a fun subject this summer. I like dupont/nason paints and extrem 2 urethane. the mist black, code 41U is very impressive. Even at 18 years old, I stepped back and paused to get an admiring look at this old truck. I also found 4600 is max hp, and laughed. I had not gone past 3k rpm even needing to be aggressive. The supercharge sound of a cold nv3500 is a fun thing. I decided to try out a bigger throttle when it was warm...8f in the sun to be exact, and let off at 4k rpm , a vortec bellow and a racing tranny sound. I love it. i do not care what the power number is written.
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3rd brake light LED checked with multimeter as to what was needed, and added two 1 watt 194 LED. considering brake lights as parking..and even more busy. The external LED swap is complete. 6 parking/blinker up front. Reverse and top bulb in tail lamps lense. Middle bulb had to stay incandescent for the brake relay (like a load resistance trigger). 2 bulbs for the third brake light. 2 license plate lights. 12 bulbs exterior.. this is almost 200 watts dropped, and bleeding numbers unknowable conquered dramatically. The third brake light swap was so dramatic, the alternator let out a growl. Added ep 29 balancer flasher. the ABS is some kinda super mode right now, I am loving what this did. The brakes are very very strong. I am finding I am letting the throttle go a little further as a result. I found it to be an overlap at the brake switch...after not knowing aBS was not at full fast functions in the first place, I deciphered the surprise anyway. The flasher relay, brake relay, and brake lights, and the two blinking lights in the dash...they all know the ABS. Peculiar to some..but it is not. Computers work with circuits. One switch trigger, and any computer will focus a connection, in the plans or not. It is based on that one switch. It is fun to find what knows what in these overlaps. 1996 is a great year for up and coming computer gurus. A lot of simple lessons to fix, not much drama. The festoon bulb in the dome light will make all courtesy lights LED, and finished with interior. interior totals out at 16 bulbs. food for thought.. 500watts at 12 volt is 41 amps. almost half an alternators ability....just for light. getting old...more than 100 years. I was ready to move on with LED.
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some updates.. 18 parking lamps swapped. The only two left external are the middle bulbs, for engineering reasons. Rather than playing with a load resistor to get the brake relay, and domino effect for ABS, etc etc.. just two bulbs left in the middle of tail lamp, and conservative versions. still hot tamales, but conservative for the design. I wanted a little heat back there anyway. Last night was the third evening greater than -20F here this winter, alot of -18F, etc. coldest month on record for bangor maine.. I live 30 frigid more miles to the north. Hyper flashing did occur, after the swap, and went and got the ep29 electronic balancer flasher/decoder. Fell right into place. I knocked off 40+ amps in parking lamp runtime. The brakes, first ride out, nearly thumped me off the steering wheel. I must have stopped a bleed between brake switch, brake relay, and flasher. Very defined. That ABS is computer controoled, bleed would be a silent monster indeed. Conquered something I did not expect. Nice surprise. I also found this truck had twin piston calipers. the 1996 only shows as single in the parts lists. Somebody did an upgrade apparently. Now onto the grand finale of interior... all courtesy bulbs that come on when you open the door are now LED. Even the door panels light up (not a common sight beyond a cadillac). 8 lights in the dash, 2 down by the 4x4 shift lever...and glove box. it may be more than 40 amps as total savings, but I only mentioned the lights that stay on with the parking switch turned on. ..and did i mention I am in love with this trucks cold starts. I have never ever had anything this confident...ever. Last night was -23F. It still has the factory recommended 600cca battery size. My subaru with a 1.8 liter takes the same size. Just simply incredible.
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I am writing about this rig in two places at once, hence the quotes. This town I am living in is central, northern maine. Extremes the nation would raise an eyebrow at sometimes. It gains hot spot and cold spot, at least once a year.. over the entire lower 48. Last night was 23 below. A lot of trauma, and drama I won't mention. I am not from this region, and I had this vengeance to conquer it one last time. The 1980s and into early 90s was so very tragic here. I was a teen, going to school here for the last few years of it. Vehicles was a #1 subject. I never forgot the trucks that came around as new during that time...like a savior of life. Those would be the TBI, injections. I have four 1157 LED for the front parking on the way, and 10 of the 194 LED bulbs for the dash. Other than that.. I am liking as it is. The transmission is a tell all for temperature and ready to roll.. I hav ebeen using that fact about manuals for a long time. From kenworths to subarus and gmc pickups. I love the manual transmissions...they can tell no lies. We are now under a blizzard warning. Another 12-18 inches on the way. I also got this cheap dash cam from ebay, tried it out in the truck. http://vimeo.com/119501284 10F in the sun.
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headlamp casings those arrived today with my gmc manual, and the billet oil filter. new lamp old lamp. All studs and adjustments are stuck. I had to remove it as a whole. This means grille removal. I can ony guess these are 344,000 miles. 1996 original. The same opaque appearance as the blinker lense below it. The blinker/parking looks normal opaque. Not sure what the story is on the headlamps. It was actaully almost impossible to see. I decided I liked nothing but the headlamp casings, and that is out of necessity. The kit came with corner lenses and blinker/parking as well. I may use the blinker/parking for switchbck led, add more white light with parking lights...but for now, just headlamps. I lubed the hell out of the studs, hand tightened back in. I installed the LED headlight bulbs, pre-install checking. A sign a truck sat around: the lamps are so old, the visibility cannot even feed my 20/10 eyesight. Not even yellowed, just sand blasted or chemicalled into worthless. The studs broke before the plastic did not. So the whole assemblies come out as one, and get chucked into a dumpster. A peculiar find, rummaging through rockautos part list for front brakes. This truck has dual piston front calipers, and there is none listed for a 1996 k1500... they are all single piston in the parts list. Maybe I got an upgrade from previous owner. edit: headlamp casing installed, found i need a new bumper filler to get grille correct. Hanging on good for now. LED headlamps were worthless... ridiculous. The lubed up studs allowed to remove the headlamp casings and change bulbs back to original easy enough...and right back together. Hand tightened. Very bright now, in the new casing. High beam is the brightest since my time with airplanes. I will not be making both headlamps kick on at the same time after all.. leaving it al alone. Just needed casings, and watt drops elsewhere to go big lights. two bulbs swapped to 194 LED must have added to the circuit as well..that is about 30 watts saved on those little bulbs. looks good. The tail lamps are getting full swap, LED built in. I found a broken latch, but lamp case holds on normal. I examined the circuit type design for the 3057/3157.. and do not like it. Looks like the bulbs are melted into their sockets. Speaking of stuck..the 194 up front on the corners, had to be dug out of ther sockets as well. That is a gm trait bringing me all the way back to my 1978 delta 88, 20 something years ago. Even got the same color plug. manual tranny fluid swap on the nv3500 later this week.. and this highway super star rally car... truck is ready to go by my own standards.
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what a relief found a diagram..now I know I can leave the powerfilter alone as full filter. the part# for relief I bought is the same as this 2001 diagram for the L30, and L31 engines. It is cold as heck where I am, the death season..more than 30 days, average around zero. It is better to underestimate without a manual than force a full filter. I knew to check around when I found some writing on pre2009 engines getting full filters, no relief. Sure enough, this explains it. I am glad to leave the new filter alone, and simply install the billet as is. I actually have a haynes manual due tomorrow in the mail, I could only guess that would show the relief..hard telling with the modern haynes. Glad to find this on the web anyway. The problem at first clues was a 75mph ride down the highway, for 30 miles. I get to the garage, drop the oil, and it is luke warm on my fingers. The filter that was in it must have been nearly no flow, all of it resorts to cooler, back around, then into engine. living and learning, my new old gmc. that is a tip i guess.. oil stays strangely cool? the filter is doing nothing. Another trait I remembered on the 305, even before the L30... the grey that might be in the oil, and it is not lead from bearings. I have only guessed it to be the headgaskets never stop shredding...slowly but surely. Filter is a must do. I tore into my first 305 in 1996, and there was that color grey after taking off the heads, and seeng the headgasket. No leaks to be found, yet the headgasket graphite color was in the oil, every oil change...small amounts. I used to think the worst, and that it was bearings. Just one of those things. Subarus have that same thing, after the engines went to "EJ series", but much worse...those actually have leaks. anyway, this was a great find, less work for me, crawling around at -5F with powder snow flying. edit: Installed this today, 15 pounds more pressure when cold, same psi when warm idle...but very dynamical. 21 to 52psi from idle to throttle, fast acting.The two reliefs are indeed balancers between cooler and filter. Took to full warm, drove it around and gave some throttle. Very noticable change. The engine is quite powerful enough. Glad to have followed intuition. Good warmed oil now, in the cold. I am very glad not to have needed a relief at the filter, there is not much room for one. Robust build, this is not like my other pro products billet for the little subaru. This one is deifinitely tougher, and of course a little larger. Upon shutdown, verify hot filter, and it was. perfect fix.
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a better picture of my first tow all taken apart. Brought back the dolly today. Towed it like it was not even there. Impressive. that is my 28 year old subaru on the right, dolly is in the middle, truck is on the left. I must have been 35 feet long or more.. did not notice. I do go trucking alot..must be subconscious. I even took it around the dunkin donuts drive thru. I had some time, looked over door seams, found the passenger side lower rear was not seating well. Not tight on the door latch pin. Enough to notice. I loosened wth a torx bit the door latch pin, gained an instant eighth..needed alittle more to be happy with my eye measure. I saw the innder door strucure was not a shiny black paint, but more flat at the door latch, and under interior door panel. The interior part we all see is shiny. The painter must have gone cheap skate on the mist black where no one notices. Assuming a change that never got the BFH, I hammered out a common spot to gain on the latch, and wallah. Door good. I left a little for fatter cab corner (starts at lower back of door) and just drive around to gain a new center. A trait I learned with other projects: With air recirc button off, windows closed, the cab should be harder to heat if all is sealed. Doing great. I am now inspired to use the recirc if its below zero. Cabin is working. The other door has a dent lower, and will wait for good weather. The only dent noticable. Just need to be good seal for heat, health, and keeping salty roads out of the seams. The only dent noticable , and its on the door design that are very noticable on these modern years of gm trucks. they need to be perfect to avoid taking a second look at seams. the lower rockers at bottom of door seams, will get my stainless steel welding, I did this for a subaru as well. It is all in good shape, and it gained a maine inspection easy enough. I like to take things one step extra. I also realized today, trucking through the city, my usual treks through bangor maine got more than a few looks for this factory black fat tire z71.. the manual tranny takeoffs from busy redlights is a notable presence. Factory tint. It is a pretty truck, even dirty and less than perfect. The pinstripe going down the whole length, all the trim is there. Simply a nice truck. the only chrome, being blinged by the dark paint. I do call it pride to be driving this. This one is very quiet, I like it alot in the city. I am quite accustomed to getting looked at on the road, driving around in a 280 inch wheelbase kenworth w900...its the same feeling. Right at home at the helm. A backroad adventure on the way home to feel out the torsion, snowy unpaid for roads with crowns and heaves and turns. Giant rally car. I am very impressed. I was paying close attention, expecting something not quite right on this first challenge on untamed roads.. its a gem. Sat back, one hand on the wheel. I may have mentioned my car before this one (and is in the photo) is an all custom ten speed subaru, now registered as antique, with a dual port intake and rochester at 43mm. That is no slouch on the rally road subject..yet the truck would just blow its doors off.
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Unannounced, my first tow. My subaru project had to be moved out of the driveway it was in, and an impatient old man had to have his way. The dealer and I left off with it needing an oil change badly for this truck, and I myself do not know what the tranny oil is in for condition. Heck, I do not even know the tail ends of the frame yet.. so, I drop the oil real quick to at least get some clean oil in before towing a dolly with a subaru on it. Got a look around while under there, looks good.. until I get to the rear bumper mounts. I am scraping cheap undercoat looking paint and it does have some decay, but nothing broken or twisted. Will add a bead to feel it out with the mig this summer. I can tell its good, just needs some psi love. towed like a dream, no creaking, nothing. I learned to use 4th gear with the nv3500.. and not overdrive, when towing. Glad to have found that before the rude interruption upon just getting to my parts gathering stages of cleaning this old truck up. Funny enough, I had to drive the 15 miles up rte 16 and the "alton woods" to get to my destination. In this region of maine that short strange stretch is like the snake of tennesee, complete with crosses on the side of the road for those that met their end in it. Crossed my fingers, hooked up, and enjoyed the 55mph ride down the highway..subaru on the dolly. 36 miles. 1 degree above zero. did very good, fuel stayed at 20. Some kinda einstein with the fuel. I also found what appears to be a large 1 inch or so line at the base of oil filter..heading to the front. only caught a glimpse, at dusk again under the truck (I pick a great time for that involuntarily). I am only guessing a genuine tow package item, oil cooler someplace. The billet filter will be a nice addon. Dropping oil, getting a good look, almost a relapse of a couple thousand times as a grunt at a quck lube. The oil was not even bad.. I am glad the dealer was cautious anyway, to mention it needed a change. It is peculiar to drive 75mph, for 35 miles..drop the oil and feel luke warm temps come across my finger. This is one truck proving to be well taken care of.
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got the LED headlights today. Casings are due next week. I thought I could get ahead of myself and slap the bulbs in, as this is nearly impossible to see at night. This truck must have been somebodies daytime non-winter vehicle. The dirtiest (permanent) worn old lenses I have ever encountered.Must be original. 19 years old. I did peel off some southern maine beach stickers off the windshield. Maybe some rich persons garage truck for a boat or something. Broke one stud, and stripped the other. Put it back together for what it is, and wait out the delivery. I will appreciate getting the entire assembly as brand new. I will be adding dabs of valvoline high temp bearing grease to all screws and bolts. The LED will stop alot of this stickiness, cold bulbs, low amps. The old tungsten bulbs in any vehicle are a very long running nightmare here. I have been on an LED kick since 2007..just before the mainstream piled in. Coincidentally, my job as a crew chief was to fix bulbs on the old planes, as well as at my year at a quick lube. My Dads rigs over the years. It seems I have been in every realm on the lights chores. Very annoying. Not a single easy going automobile, plane or tractor trailer...none. until LED. I have been having fun with them. One power wire of old can do twice as much with LED swapping. Alot of oppurtunity to make changes. Switch back type bulbs etc. (I may do that for this one.. leave the blinker/park lenses as white mode and amber for a fog light effect..) The powefilter is an actual go this time...shipped my way. The professional products 10876, due next week. The tranny fluid is also due next week. Maybe schedule a time to get the nose in the garage, for oil and lights swap. I would also prefer drill press for the oil filter relief on the powerfilter.
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bought this today as well. this is the 1996 with the 230 horse L30 5 liter. the air box is multi boxed, with "vortec" cast on top. My bro-n-law mentioned the word spider injections, centralized fuel guided around. I'll just get a book. I want this one to stay factory. The most robust below zero cold starts I have ever had...ever. the fuel at 20mpg is a rock. Not sure how they did that. Cold engines typically use fuel. Maybe EGR does work. Will read all this book has to say. I do know the lubes and filters first hand.. serviced lots of them. Never caught onto fuels and ignition. I do have a pinout for the computer, and learned I can unattach the shift light if I wanted, and several simple options. I also got looking closer, this one says SLE as a label not slt, and the z71 logo is just there apparently. Not meaning much. the rear end is large, at ten bolt., and learned I would have to measure the ring gear to know exactly what it is. 3.73 is in the rpo codes. this shipped with 6400 pound brakes. learning as i go...
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Truck registered, and now have a genuine antique status subaru. maine law requires a primary vehicle to be allowed an antique, it avoids abusers. so, as of 2015, if you see a maine vehicle with antique on the plate..it is genuine, and not exactly an easy process. Already thinking of this 5 speed truck with all the cadilac like extras, it is 19 this year. Trucking along.. refunded for the powerfilter. Not sure what was going on there. No reasoning, just a reciept for refund. This happened to me and my subaru quest for the powerfilter as well. Just purchased again from "terry rosebush motorsports", a demo model, 50 bucks cheaper. Those filters shipped with an oil relief is going to make millions. Not sure where the slow poke in the marketing is, or finalizing them. Real shame. I have been a couple of years with just one, and love it. I had evidence the subaru version when it arrived, was doing some work at a cow farm or something. Stunk like milk, and cow. Someone joked it may have been a filter being used in the cow milking process. That was hilarious. I soaked it in petrol based cleaners, and threw it on the little subaru engine with a relief custom (previous post has a video). This one coming should be just fingerprints.
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this is an expensive post. will leave this one all by itself. 3 quarts = $58.44 I did use an incentive to purchase, but ... I mentioned I had worked at a quick lube in the 90s. The gm stuff , and actually the lincoln RWD ended up being my favorite when us coworkers got talking. A nasty reoccurence over and over again was finding lightweight motor oil in the manual tranny. The manager used to stand right next to me as I drained the plug so he could get a look and tell the customer if he has no warranty/guarantee at the quick lube, due to wrong fluid. Remembering this, I am spending whatever it takes. A half gallon of fluid for 6200 gvwr. Damn man, get it right. I also found tips and hints etc, just for the get rag (nv3500) I was waiting for a tough first gear engage at 5 below last evening, as an indicator the real fluid is not installed. This one has no errors, but will start it off fresh with the new part number for fluid. 4wd is incredible, no indication in drivetrain except go forward and stop quicker. The 5 speed is like a giant subaru to drive.
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synchromesh genuine gm 12345349 this part number is old stock if you find it. the replace is Genuine GM Fluid 88900333 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid I just had to figure that out..good thing for the net, but it seems i found it in a review at summit racing. No instructions elsewise. expensive..but, the dealer informed me it needed a change, engine/tranny they did not get to it. will wait it out for billet filter install. 4.25 pints is .525 gallon. 2.25 quarts means 3 jugs. expensive oil change for half a gallon...and a quarter.
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Thanks. I took on journalism just for cars with an old tin can subaru, an impossible 80s tin can.. just for the ten speed transmission. 8 years have gone by in sarcasm nearly every day. It started off by my physique being an odd shape just to drive it. today, I could drive it the 110 miles to loring landspeed and set the 1.8 liter record for natural engines.. and then casually drive home. All the physics learned stemmed from my gm runtimes and maine.. "they are all the same" nearly applies. I will share my welds as well, my locale has some jaw dropping surprises. I have welded at just about every subject, including impossible. My brother actually broke a frame under the door of his gmc...1990 3/4 ton model, singular headlights. This GMC is a gem in the density and straightness, being past the 15 year mark, good clean carbon runtime. I began learning steel as a little boy, my dad has been an independent trucker for 40 years. Not much to do on my favorite subject, with this gmc. Make some things look pretty, and a bed beam. A unique goal for this is respecting the solid 20mpg. I have decided to leave the single pipe exhaust alone, even the factory cat. Air intake says "vortec" on it.. appears to be a lot of genuine think in the unique appearance. I vow to replace it all by the numbers, no hacks whan needing anything at all. It whirls over maybe half a second to a second...frigid cold starts. So very confident. This thing is a rock.
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I keep crashing my browser here.. long story short.... regular filters suck (I was a quick lube man) just purchased the 10876 by professional products, and the acdelco oil relief I add custom to the filter. part # ACDelco 25013759 this takes 25 oil changes to pay for itself, or less..but the value is way beyond that. Even acts as a cooler...exactly consistent. I put one of these on a 110psi subaru ea82, and it did not cave in. they are all missing a relief to me, and I add the acdelco to the bottom. We build, we destroy, to learn. I made a video a couple of years ago. Forgive the song..its not really my musical taste. I must have used it for the length.
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Browsing for parts gathering, I was looking for the L30 replacement.. as I do enjoy that engine, especially given the gearing behind it. Found a rather costly one at summit racing..long block. Good build. Compared to subarus, it is a dime for a dozen in comparison. I will pay that asking price, no problems, when the time comes. For now, this is as good as the dealer claimed under the hood. Some years to come. A reason for going much bigger than a four banger is my move back to north central maine. I know chevys and a lot of the weakness...and that is not much. Always my favorite. rare phenomena today. I have not recorded this cold and snowing heavy…ever. Been here 28 years. The single digits and snow, that happens occasionally. 12pm in photo, the high may not reach zero F. So far I have lights in the mail, and oil changes scheduled on a good day. I may go brand name battery, and am in awe over just 600cca being needed to start. The early or aging computer GM should follow those numbers closely..its in the manuals. my 1.8 liter subaru uses the same CCA..and still fnds a way to need more at times.
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