04z71crew

I just purchased a ranch hand grille guard from a guy and it only had one bolt on each side for the bottom mounts. According to the diagrams there should be an angle iron bracket for the very bottom hole on each side. Does anyone have a ranch hand grille guard for a 1500 (2003-2007classic) mounted on their truck? if so would anyone mind taking a few pictures of the bottom mount? Thanks in advance!

Brand new oem bosch injectors for an LML 2011 through 2016. $2,600 for the complete set of (8) shipped anywhere in the contiguous U.S. NO cores are required.

rockauto or amazon, whatever is cheaper. Stick with an ac delco unit, not worth the hassle of running an aftermarket that you can’t trust. If you have the 105 I would recommend upgrading to the 145 amp, they are usually the same price or cheaper. All you will need is a longer serpentine belt. Check the health of your battery, if it is worn out it can damage your new alternator so if it’s old just throw a new one in there for peace of mind. Duracell makes a battery with a 48 month replacement, I have had no issues with mine.

take the switch off and clean the contacts with a pencil eraser. Common problem, the contacts develop corrosion but it can be cleaned easily. https://youtu.be/F1OEEysCV3c

my 04 had the castech head issue. Same symptoms eventually overheated taking out the head gasket. I put a set of 799/243 heads on mine I wasn’t going to risk another castech failure. I would do both if you plan on keeping it.

I would recommend doing both new rotors and pads at the same time. I have been pleased with my wagner pads, they stop great while towing and have worn very evenly. For rotors if you are doing them yourself I would recommend OEM going through rockauto or amazon etc. If you are having a shop do the work I recommend you go the local ford dealer. Why you ask? because in 2017 Ford started offering aftermarket parts for most make/models. The brand is omnicraft, that is what I put on my truck because I worked for a ford dealer at the time of replacement. If you have them done at the GM dealer they will give you a 12 month warranty. If you let Ford do the work they will give you a 3 year unlimited mile warranty on the rotors, labor included! I have had no warping issues, or any complaints more than 2 years later. YMMV but that is my 2 cents good luck with your setup!

Pick you up a cheap obd11 scanner for $20 at walmart. It wont give you that much data but will at least give you a starting point with the code that its throwing. From there you can research typical symptoms and see if yours is doing the same thing etc. What is the issue with the truck? symptoms? You can also test your fuel pressure at the fuel rail to determine if the pump is doing its job or not.

Sorry you are having a tough time. Electrical problems can be a not so fun to track down. Do not just go replacing random relays and fuses etc, waste of time. You really need to figure out exactly what wiring harness you cut into. If its only a few wires you can take the wire loom off and solder in new connections with new wires. Heat shrink it all afterwards. If you cut half of them you are better off scrapping that portion of the harness and replacing. So I would find the harness, assess the damage, and look up a schematic for the wiring harness. You could have blown a fusable link that is burried in the harness itself as well. But first you need to know exactly what kind of damage the harness has. I wish you good luck and next time just use a good quality hook pick to pull the grommets. Channelock makes a real nice made in the USA set for like $10 it has served me well. I have kicked myself for things in the past it happens to all of us. Don’t beat yourself up every problem has a solution you just need to know exactly where is located. You can do it.

Nice truck Sir. Its amazing how little things can make an older truck more enjoyable. Its personal preference on the lift stuff. Personally not a fan of body lifts and the bigger the tires you go the worse fuel economy and towing performance you get per mile. Also tires, those big boys aint cheap. In the end if you are going to enjoy the truck more the way you want it? The heck with anyone else you are the captain and that bowtie is yours. My 04 blew a head gasket last year and one of the lovely castech heads failed. Of course everyone told me to scrap it. No thanks I had already replaced half the parts on the truck. So I went even further 799 heads decked and milled 0.30 with new lifters and brian tooley pushrods. On a stock 5.3? yea why not, better to beef up whats there than have to fix something later lol. I then upgraded the factory radiator to a 34in did an 05 and up OEM efan swap. All new cooling hoses, upgraded to a 145 amp alternator, did all gaskets seals, new intake gaskets, new belts, new plugs and wires. New LT wildpeak all terrains. You get the idea. I am with you the truck hasnt asked for much and hasn’t given me one bit of trouble until the castech heads. That was a known manufacturing flaw that should have been a recall. My stock alternator halfway failed an hour and a half from home on a middle of nowhere turnpike. Lights were flickering and battery not charging message came on. It was 26 degrees and I was with the wife. I just told the truck we just needed to make it home. It did. Its been to houston and back from central oklahoma. It fires up everytime, holds really good oil pressure and has just been too good to let go of. Sometimes you buy something brand new and it gives you problems right away. I have worked in sales and as a service writer and believe me all the new stuff aint problem free either. Enjoy your paid for truck I absolutely hate financing stuff too. Anything can happen in this economy and anything you dont owe on is an asset. You got the right idea but I still respect anyone who disagrees because everyone’s situation is different. Most new trucks wont make it to 275k and thats a fact.

Being stranded is no fun! Sounds like the battery is on its way out but maybe it will last a bit longer? I highly recommend the duracell platinum agm batteries that can be found at batteries plus bulbs, 48 month free replacement. Excellent performance in all temps. Is it reading 15.5 volts with all accessories on? did you test off the post of battery or both that and alternator? make sure you don’t have a loose ground etc. 15.5 seems high and could be bad cell/failing battery. Before you throw in a new battery make sure your alternator is functioning correctly as to not burn it up!

Welcome! No such thing is a dumb question. If you are going all out get you some bilstein shocks all around. Air bags are great. As far as stability goes throw a set of 10 ply tires on the truck. I tow and put 10 ply tires on my 1500 and the difference is remarkable. No more sidewall flex and bouncing around. Much better stability, yes you will lose a little mpg but the safety factor makes up for it. Good luck!

There sure is, this is most likely your problem ?

Hey Jon how did that cam swap go?

Had the same issue on my 2004. Opted for a APTDY aftermarket pan and used some permatex “the right stuff” gasket maker along with a felpro gasket. No leaks a year later. You already have the truck apart might as well follow through with it so its one less thing you have to be concerned about later. Just my 2 cents.

I just completed this repair on my 2004 5.3 LM7. Have you pulled your heads already? How many bolt sizes do you have? They changed bolt styles in 2004 so it depends on when your truck was produced. If you have only 2 bolt sizes follow the second diagram. If you have 3 bolt sizes with #'s 9-10 being smaller than 1-8 you should follow sequence #1. My truck was produced in 2004 and I only had two bolt sizes. If you haven't already pick up the 862 heads I would highly recommend a set of 799's or 243's. I installed a set a 799's with a full valve job and milled them .030. My castech 706 heads failed.

Looking for some help here, I've got an 04 z71 crew cab with the 5.3 and recently it has been overheating when the truck is sitting at idle with the ac on. What I have done : installed a fan clutch last year, and cleaned the condenser and radiator out. While driving it sits at 195 but today it did jump to 212 even while moving and cutting the ac off brings it back down. When its sitting the fan just doesn't seem as loud as it should be in these 100+ temps here in oklahoma. The other day i left it running for 20 minutes to cool it off and when i left the house it was sitting at 250 with the engine coolant hot warning. Revving it up to 3K for about 2 minutes brought it back down to normal. It seems like an airflow issue, isn't the fan supposed to be pretty damn loud? I know my 94 z71 was. Is the radiator going to sh*$? thermostat sticking? water pump weak? where should i start to diagnose it? Thanks.