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About 04z71crew

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  • Birthday 06/30/1986

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  1. Hey Jon how did that cam swap go?
  2. Had the same issue on my 2004. Opted for a APTDY aftermarket pan and used some permatex “the right stuff” gasket maker along with a felpro gasket. No leaks a year later. You already have the truck apart might as well follow through with it so its one less thing you have to be concerned about later. Just my 2 cents.
  3. +1 for the wildpeak club. Congrats on your new setup I have had my set in 10 ply for almost a year and have been nothing but pleased with them.
  4. No such thing as a stupid question buddy. You wont be able to get the proper torque applied unless you rotate the crank in this order: 22 ft. lbs 6. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke.In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position.The engine firing order is 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3.Cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 are the left bank.Cylinder 2, 4, 6 and 8 are the right bank. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. 7. With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: o Tighten the cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8 exhaust valve rocker arm bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . o Tighten the cylinders 1, 3, 4 and 5 intake valve rocker arm bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .  8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. 9. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: o Tighten the cylinders 3, 4, 5 and 6 exhaust valve rocker arm bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . o Tighten the cylinders 2, 6, 7 and 8 intake valve rocker arm bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . 10. Install the valve rocker arm cover Good luck!
  5. With that kind of mileage I would thoroughly inspect all the front end parts to be safe and plan accordingly. Your hub is probably toast if its the original or even a replacement done 100k miles ago. Provided you have the tools its not a very difficult job.
  6. check your tie rods and ball joints to be sure but if those check out its most likely your hub. Wouldn’t drive on it if it has already failed. Find your parts on Amazon or rockauto. How many miles are on the truck??
  7. IMO you might need to do some light trimming. Wheel spacers aren’t good long term for your bearings or studs. Check the DOT stamp on the tires if they were made in 15 they are almost five years old. Tread depth could be perfect on a tire that is starting to weaken due to age. Play it safe. I highly recommend falken wildpeaks for an awesome all around A/T.
  8. Common problem. I had the same symptoms on my 2004. Stuck in 4wd, service 4wd etc. Replacing the sensor inside of my encoder motor solved it for good. Use a/c delco parts either from rockauto or Amazon. The encoder motor is above your skidplate on the driver side. If it is not your sensor it could he the switch itself (I replaced mine with no improvement) or the encoder motor itself.
  9. I had the same problem with my 04 silverado. I changed the switch with no resolve, then I changed the sensor in the encoder motor on the transfer case. The sensor was the issue. http://ACDelco 88962315 GM Original Equipment Transfer Case Range Select Position Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049OL6OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U0paDbMV2F217
  10. Are you getting hot air on drivers side only? or all vents? My 2004 had the same problem but only on the driver side. Pulling the blend door actuator and cleaning the grease from the contacts solved the problem completely. Trouble free a year later. If this doesn’t solve the problem it could be your actual module if you have dual climate.
  11. Did the new encoder motor fix the problem? Maybe the 01 wasn't serviceable.
  12. Had the same problem on my 2004. Turns out it was the sensor inside of the encoder motor mounted to the transfer case. $50 part AC delco on Amazon. Try the sensor first before you shell out the $$ for the entire encoder motor.
  13. I just completed this repair on my 2004 5.3 LM7. Have you pulled your heads already? How many bolt sizes do you have? They changed bolt styles in 2004 so it depends on when your truck was produced. If you have only 2 bolt sizes follow the second diagram. If you have 3 bolt sizes with #'s 9-10 being smaller than 1-8 you should follow sequence #1. My truck was produced in 2004 and I only had two bolt sizes. If you haven't already pick up the 862 heads I would highly recommend a set of 799's or 243's. I installed a set a 799's with a full valve job and milled them .030. My castech 706 heads failed.
  14. 173K miles. I am OCD for changing the oil on time or EARLY lol. The first photo is of the motor after I pulled the heads. There was quite a bit of carbon buildup that took quite of bit of elbow grease to remove but I figured I was already there why not do it. What it did notice is that there was almost 0 sludge buildup at all. The power difference now with the new heads is very noticeable or it could be its just because it hasn't been that clean since new. It has been a couple of weeks and I just changed the oil for the second time get the residual dirt/grime that may have accumulated during the repair. No CEL, no issues and I just upgraded my 105 alternator to a 145 amp.
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