14Silverado14

Almost 4 weeks now since the 2 repairs I did, (pictured above and negative ground on frame) the truck is running very good so far. My problem was one or the other or both. I had all the same problems in previous posts. My buddies 05 Colorado has the same issue. Driving down the road and it just dies. Climb under the front end and smack the crossmember with a hammer and it runs again. Has to be that connection in the pics above.

Has anyone with these electrical issues tried looking at this connection ? Drop your plastic skid plate thingy and it's right there. It comes right from the battery, (both negative and positive) and goes to the ECM. I just did mine today. It had a mild to heavy white frosting on both the blades. I took emery cloth and cleaned them, then applied dielectric grease. Have to wait and see what happens.

Part # 84494554 $48.80 with tax My alternator gauge seems to be working normally now. We'll see what happens.

Went to the dealer today. Diagnostics found many low voltage messages. Mechanic found a voltage drop between the positive (short) battery cable from the battery to the terminal it connects to. Part is about 60 bucks, had to order. Gmpartsdirect list this part as #6 but is not listed to be able to buy it. Must have to get it at a dealership only. The mechanic told me they have replaced many of these. I'll post the part # when I get it tomorrow if it comes. $79 diagnostic fee, total of $250 to install ! I'll do it myself.

Ok, so the weather turns cold, problem returns again. Complete shuts downs while driving making turns to a parasitic drain on MY NEW BATTERY. Going to the dealer Monday, not going to be stranded along the road at night. Meanwhile , I carry a spare battery incase I need a jump. Disconnect negative cable every night and charge battery. Lock doors only one push on the fob, no theft deterrent activated when stopping at stores. I stopped at a hardware store, shut the truck off and I knew it wouldn't start, and it didn't. I smacked the frame ground with my trailer hitch and shut my hood, then the power came back on. So now I think, could it be the negative cable not being crimped right ? A new replacement cable with same part # is not the same cable. It is shorter and has the wrong eyelets on the ends. Is it something else ? I dunno and am tired of fixing a truck with only 42000 on it. The dealer can have the problem now. Update to follow after.

Update: Battery checked out ok. --Took both battery connectors off, cleaned both posts and connectors, applied dielectric grease to both. --Took all wires off on top of the battery and scuffed all connections with emery cloth then dielectric grease to all. --Removed frame ground cleaned terminal and frame with die grinder pad and applied dielectric compound to both. So far, no issues. If I have any I will post it here. Thanks to everyone's posts for advice.

Yes, I was going to recheck the frame ground after the winter season. My battery terminals are both tight but I think I am going to remove and clean both of them and retighten. I did get the message to go away: I tried the window lock button on the driver's door. Then restarted the truck. The window message went away and then for a split second a " Service Stabilitrak" message came up then went away and everything is clear now. So that's what I was thinking was something isn't making a good connection somewhere. I'll have the battery checked out as well and see what goes from there.

Made a left turn, Stabilitrak alarm went off then steering got stiff for a few. Parked the truck lest than 30 secs later and shut it off. Restarted it and it was totally dead. 10 secs later I heard a click and all my gauges went up and down slightly then the truck restarted fine..........except for this window message I keep getting everytime I start the truck. I've put the window down then up, I've put all the windows down then up, still have alarm. Disconnected negative battery cable for 30 mins, still have alarm. I have already done both G218 grounds and the one behind the right cylinder head about 3 months ago and all was good until this happened. Any ideas of what to do next before the expensive trip to the dealer ? BTW battery was replaced last year and redid both ground wires from the negative battery cable to the back of the engine and the frame also. Thanks everyone !!

2014 Silverado LT with very similar problems. Headlights also dim and flicker when applying the brake or using the turn signals. Some have said the negative battery cable needs replaced. mine looks fine when I took it off and cleaned both ends. Probably going to the dealership since I really don't have the time to mess with it.

Thought I would post some pics and an update on the fog light wiring. As you can see from the pics I chose to add switches in the overhead console. This came before I even knew about the upfitters switches. I never though a car/truck company would have done this. After checking with GM service they gave me an OK on not having any problems or issues tapping into the low and high beam circuits. They even complimented me on a very neat and clean install afterwards. Everything works: the aux fog lights go out when the high beams are on. The other switches are for trailer rear spot lights and bed lights. The acc switch was installed in case I wanted to wire something in later because the wiring for all this was a bit of a pain. All switches are fuse protected and ran through relays. The extra ground wire that's hanging isn't needed but I left it in there for future use. It's all a tight fit but it all goes in there. There's plenty of room above the headliner for the relays and fuse holders. I did not need to drop the headliner, I just fed them into the open space. All power came directly from the battery.

So you are saying to use one relay to control 12v TO the fog lights and another relay to control ground to the fog lights. Am I correct ? Do I need to use 2 double throws or just one for the high beams. Checked with a Chevy mechanic and he stated there should be no problems wiring this circuit into the existing wiring.

I've read this bulletin however my relay is not mechanical so this shouldn't apply if I am correct. I will make a trip to the shop and ask them. I also read something about lighted switches and was going to post it but can't seem to locate it right now. I do appreciate the warning. I did do some reading beforehand however this project has given me tunnel vision to just get it done. You have just tapped me on the shoulder and told me to step back and look at the situation before proceeding and I do thank you.

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Can you draw me a diagram or make a terminal list. My terminology might differ from yours. I'm trying to draw this out on paper but not having much luck. Thanks for the help so far.

2014 Silverado 1500 LT Ok,everyone seems to want the factory fogs to come on with the high beams. I installed Hella fogs on my brush guard and want them to come on separately with only the low beams (the law here). Chevy garage will not pass for inspection if they aren't. I don't want them to come on with the factory fog lights. I want them to come on separately. I may want the factory ones on or I may want the Hellas on or I may want both. I like options. Problem: when the high beams are on the factory fogs go out but the low beams stay on so I can't just wire into the low beam circuit. I don't want to wire into the factory fogs or the Hellas will only come on when the factory ones do. Been looking at diagrams and it looks like the ground disconnects from the factory fogs when the high beams are on. All I need to know is what wire and where do I tap into to run to the relay for the Hellas to only come on with the low beams and go out with the high beams.