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14Silverado14

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14Silverado14 last won the day on August 26 2015

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About 14Silverado14

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  1. Update: Battery checked out ok. --Took both battery connectors off, cleaned both posts and connectors, applied dielectric grease to both. --Took all wires off on top of the battery and scuffed all connections with emery cloth then dielectric grease to all. --Removed frame ground cleaned terminal and frame with die grinder pad and applied dielectric compound to both. So far, no issues. If I have any I will post it here. Thanks to everyone's posts for advice.
  2. If that year Silverado WIRING is the same or similar to the 99 Suburban ....under the hood on drivers side is a fuse box. Pull out all the fuses one by one and put them back in. My Suburban had same problem. If your fuse blades look a little white they could maybe have intermittent connections. Put some dielectric grease on them. Reason I say this is you mentioned the truck was well kept as was mine. I used to pressure wash the engine bay once a year....I think that is what caused my problem.
  3. Yes, I was going to recheck the frame ground after the winter season. My battery terminals are both tight but I think I am going to remove and clean both of them and retighten. I did get the message to go away: I tried the window lock button on the driver's door. Then restarted the truck. The window message went away and then for a split second a " Service Stabilitrak" message came up then went away and everything is clear now. So that's what I was thinking was something isn't making a good connection somewhere. I'll have the battery checked out as well and see what goes from there.
  4. Made a left turn, Stabilitrak alarm went off then steering got stiff for a few. Parked the truck lest than 30 secs later and shut it off. Restarted it and it was totally dead. 10 secs later I heard a click and all my gauges went up and down slightly then the truck restarted fine..........except for this window message I keep getting everytime I start the truck. I've put the window down then up, I've put all the windows down then up, still have alarm. Disconnected negative battery cable for 30 mins, still have alarm. I have already done both G18 grounds and the one behind the right cylinder head about 3 months ago and all was good until this happened. Any ideas of what to do next before the expensive trip to the dealer ? BTW battery was replaced last year and redid both ground wires from the negative battery cable to the back of the engine and the frame also. Thanks everyone !!
  5. 2014 Silverado LT with very similar problems. Headlights also dim and flicker when applying the brake or using the turn signals. Some have said the negative battery cable needs replaced. mine looks fine when I took it off and cleaned both ends. Probably going to the dealership since I really don't have the time to mess with it.
  6. Ok, so I have this problem now fixed. 1st I went to Auto Zone and they said my original battery was at 90%. I felt he had no idea what he was doing so I made an appt. with the dealership figuring it was low voltage issue somewhere in the wiring They said the battery was going bad and showed me how they checked it with their equipment. So I bought a new battery. So far everything is ok. I have all stock everything in my truck except for added on Hella fog lamps. I find it hard to believe a battery only lasts 4 years these days. The battery you have to put in is for this model only so that the positive side of the terminal and other posts snap onto the top of the battery. I had to loosen the reserve antifreeze bottle to get the battery out. BTW The battery was over $200.00 so be forewarned. I never spent that much ever on a car battery !
  7. I have the same problem with my 2014 Silverado. I still have the original battery. I'm thinking I will start with a trip to the auto parts store for a load test and see what goes from there.
  8. I would prefer through the roof mount but 1. Can't see drilling a hole through a new truck. 2. The sheet metal is so thin I'm afraid if you hit something too low on your whip you would tweak the metal and loose a water tight seal plus ruin your roof.
  9. I am the one that used to do all their wiring. Everything from lightbars,sirens two ways, generators, mag chargers and even shotgun locks. I have although never installed a 400 watt radio since we use repeaters. Nor have I worked with the new electronics system introduced in the 14 Silverado. I am kinda hoping a GM tech will jump in here and offer some pointers.
  10. So do you think 10g is enough or would you use 8g if it were you ? Can a power supply wire (12v) mess with rf ? I'm planning on running the antenna wire behind the cab away from the engine compartment but still wonder about the amp being on the center hump close to the fire wall and a Body Control Module is under the dash and one near the drivers seat. If I used the highest shielded coax I can find do you think that would be what I need ? Just asking for your opinion if you have done this sort of work before and read the TSB I posted above. Thanks
  11. I think I am confused. You stated you used 4 gauge wire for a 400watt. I have a so to say 400 watt amp and was told to uses 8 although I used to use 10. Isn't 4 gauge twice the size of 8g ? I'm not sure what you are trying to make me understand, sorry. I do plan to come right off the battery to a terminal strip with 12v breakers where I can tap into that for other accessories.
  12. Well I did have 10g wire in my other truck and everything was good. When I took my equipment to a CB shop for a tune up I was asking them questions. One question was "What gauge wire should I use for the radio and the kicker ?" Immediately the guy answered "8 Gauge." I'm just going off the advise I was given. I do know when I had this in my older pre 90's truck I had to rev up the engine a bit when I keyed the mic and the lights on my moon visor would flicker with the loudness of my voice. It is a pretty powerful unit but I never measured the amp draw.
  13. I am looking to install a cb/ham radio with a 375 watt kicker. I am concerned about the wattage output affecting my 2014 Silverado 1500 electrical system. I have a TSB about installing TX radios and question whether or not this wattage output will cause problems with the trucks electrical circuits. I have already consulted a dealer and he stated that he could not give me any advise on ANY aftermarket products period. Well the radio is going in the truck period. I have had no problems with the radio installed in my 99 Suburban and everything worked as it should. However, I have been reading TSB's on this newer electrical system on the 2014's and basically it states that it is very sensitive and must be done correctly or weird and bad things can happen. I have included the TSB I have downloaded and wanted to know if anyone has a similiar wattage transceiver installed in their 2014 Silverado 1500 and if you encountered any problems, how you ran the power wires and antenna cable, where you hooked the 12 wire to (battery direct or terminals under the battery cover) needed 2 batteries or just one (I had 2 in the Suburban with a specially made 200 amp alternator) and what type antenna you used ( magnetic or permenant) ? I have a 25 watt radio with a High Drive linear that will swing to about 375 watts and plan to run a Wilson 5000 magnetic mount on the roof although I would rather have a through the roof hole mount but am not drilling holes in a new truck or a bed mount but I have a cap. All powered with 8 gauge wire that was recommended from a CB shop. In reading the Service Bulletin it specifies where to run the 12v wire along with the antenna cable a certain way. However I really do not want to run 25ish feet of power wire clear around the radiator and back inside the cab. My battery is on the passenger side and really don't see why I can't just run it direct into the passenger side of the cab as long as I keep it away from the antenna cable. Any help or advise would be more than appreciated. Thanks members. Serious responses only please. Thanks Again !!
  14. Let's not forget the fact that GM credits every dealer that does 1 free oil change the sum of $50.00. Any dealer that is charging any fee other than the difference in price of blend to full is making money off their customers for free oil changes. Call it what you will but I say it is unfair business practices,running a racket and making money off GM. As one other member said you already paid for those free oil changes in the price of the truck.
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