Willyspu

I found this when searching for the GM part #10199232, the dampener must be the 2 weights held on the exhaust pipe by the U-bolt. GM refers to this as: PIP5277B. http://gm.oemdtc.com/1954/pip5277b-engine-vibration-resonanceboom-between-40-to-60-mph-2010-2017-chevrolet-equinox-gmc-terrain Link to dampener from GMDirect. You can buy similiar U-bolts at an auto store for a few bucks. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/10199232 This is the text from the page listed above, THE LINKS DO NO WORK ON THIS PAGE GO TO THE SITE I LINKED ABOVE. Condition/Concern Some customers may comment that a resonance type vibration occurs between 40 to 60 MPH. In most cases the engine must be under a slight load such as A/C compressor engagement, light throttle, and in 6th gear tcc applied. It also is described as a 2nd order engine boom or vibration. In most cases this is an inherent condition on 4 cylinder models, however in some cases this condition is much more amplified. Recommendation/Instructions Relax engine and transmission mounts, then the exhaust system by loosening the front pipe studs. Work down the system disconnecting one exhaust hanger at a time. Test drive to verify any improvements. If additional steps are required place two sets of exhaust dampeners (part #10199232 and attach with 2 1/2″ exhaust clamps, part #15595206) one set before and one set after the front catalytic converter. It may be required to move the pair of dampeners along the exhaust system to get the best results (photos attached). This repair will only improve noise and vibration to a condition comparable to like vehicles with the 4 cylinder powertrain. Fabricate 2 dampers using the following procedure: Obtain 4 dampeners, Part Number 10199232. Line up 2 dampeners so the dampener pipes are opposite of each other. Line up one mounting hole from each dampener with the holes of an appropriate size exhaust clamp. With all of the holes lined up, weld the flat portion of the dampeners together and to the flat part of the exhaust clamp Attach the dampeners to the exhaust system using exhaust clamps.

I was in your same position almost exactly a year ago. First, I would look to buying the newest model you can. Check Costco for their holiday deal with Chevy, usually a decent price + a $500.00 Costco card and 50% off 1 dealer part part (like mats etc). Also, consider ordering a car so you get exactly what you want, every thing can be had ala cart except the standard options, it will take about 6 weeks but you get what you want. Ok, we had a 2001 Suburban with 200,000 miles, very few problems rode like the family couch. We ordered a 2016 Suburban LT with 2nd row captain chairs, tow package, roof rack and 18" wheels. The new Suburban is appointed very nicely, much nicer than our 2001. BUT, the ride is now what they call, "European Tuned". They are firm and do not ride like your fathers Cadillac. Also, the fact that the engine management system to save fuel will run as a 4 cylinder which will be rougher and rumble a bit to it goes back to V8 mode. With that said, this is the best car we have owned, at 54 I have owned a lot of different cars from BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Subaru, Mazda, Willys Jeep, Ford and more. My wife and I drive our 2016 Suburban from the SF Bay Area to our ranch east of Eugene Oregon, a 10 hour drive. We have traveled in snow, ran, over smooth Oregon Highways, gritty Oakland Ca freeways, on long gravel roads, through active creaks and up unpaved rutted logging roads. This Suburban travels just as well as the 2001 because it is a truck. It also have so many more safety features it is almost ridiculous. For us, the 23 mpg on the highway is a huge advantage advantage. I now have 15,200 miles on our 1 year old car and I love it. Yes, when it is in V4 mode it rumbles and vibrates a little, (ours a lot less than others on this list). As an example, my wife has never noticed it shift from V4 to V8. To me, the better gas mileage is worth it. We don't hear the booming or pressure the others on this list hear/feel. Again, this is a truck and a great long range vehicle but also a worthy off road vehicle, but it does ride firm. I think a lot of the ride complaints come from the low profile tires, 20's and 22's. I know they look cool but this is a 2 1/2 truck and in my opinion those tires do not give enough flex for a smooth ride . . . others will disagree. I will say, do not but a used low mileage model as it is probably a return do to the issues on this list. Really, think about what you want and order exactly that model, the showroom models have so much stuff on them you may not want or need but you will pay for. One other thing, I have found the standard Halogen lights are not bright enough for my old eyes or driving in the forest at night, if you fall in this category you may opt for HID or as I am currently trying, after market LED's. Good luck, drive a few and see for your self.

If you switch the computer screen in the dashboard console to show your gas mileage it will have an indicator on the lower right to show V8 or V4. On my 2016, it sometimes feels at slower speeds (35-40 mph) like a manual transmission lugging in too high a gear causing some slight vibration. But the 22 -23 mpg on the highway is well worth the trade off . . . to me at least.

Mine is a 2016 Suburban special order with 18" wheels built 10/31/2015. Great car no issues.

Try driving one with 18" wheels. The added sidewall really helps isolate you from the road harshness. The Suburban LS or LT's come standard with them. I custom ordered mine with 18" wheels because having low profile sport tires on a 7,000 lbs suv didn't make sense to me. If you plan to drive on rough roads, off of the pavement or in the snow you should have 18" wheels, as a side benefit, replacement tires are less expensive. The thinner band of rubber on 20" & 22" tires/wheels will not protect your wheels from severe pot holes etc. That is the reason for high inflation pressures to stop the tire from compressing and bending the rims. That said, the new GM truck models all ride "firmer" than previous models and their seats are firmer too. That's the European car influence. These are not the float boats of years past.

I really think these trucks should not ride on low profile tires and wheels so I bet your 2016 with 18" wheels would be fine. Mine is a 2016 built October 1 with 18" wheels and it is the best car I ever owned. Test drive yours on all sorts of roads. If you don't here booming or see a water bottle vibrating in the coup holder you will most likely be fine. The ones that ride well are great vehicles.

Norcal, the car looks great. But most of us bought it because it is a truck that rides well. We use it as a truck for hauling and driving on rough roads where cars may not be able to go. Most of these models are 4 wheel drive. Your lowered car would be high centered on the way to my ranch. Lowering it to that level may be acceptable on California roads but it will never work for rough roads or dirt roads. In most of the United States we have main roads that are paved and many side roads that are not paved with huge pot holes. Your car pictured would fail on those roads. You keep posting your low rider cars but they are only an option for NorCal or SoCal type roads, not the rest of America. Get a clue.

That might work where you live but the first rain rutted gravel hill dirt road you drive on or snow/ice covered back road, that low rider will be begging for AAA to tow it back to the asphalt where it came from. No disrespect intended but that is a very limited use garage queen now.

I too did not find what I wanted on the dealers lot so I ordered and then found this site. I live on a ranch where 4 wheel drive is actually needed. I also drive from California t Oregon and back, 600 miles each way. The 20" and 22" tires are plain stupid on a car like this and if you leave the pavement. They are meant for sports cars who's owners expect to "feel" the road. The small sidewalls of these tires cannot handle the +7,000lbs of truck they need to carry. For this reason, I ordered a Suburban LT with 18" wheels, rear bucket seats and only the gizmos that I wanted (no jumbo entertainment for every seat and no sun roof). I have 6,000 miles of city, highway and off road use and this is the best car I have ever owned. The safety features alone are amazing: side alert, adaptive cruise control, lane assist, automatic dim/high beam headlights . . . I will say the ride is stiffer than my 2001 Suburban and the seats are a little smaller and firmer, but this car is very nice. Don't put rubber band size tires on a truck, they don't work. By the way, I bought mine through the local Costco, got a nice deal and $750 Costco credit. Also, before I bought, I took the TSB that is mentioned in this list, to the dealer and asked about it. He said he knew and would be willing to fix if needed or talk about a trade if needed. Of course he wanted the sale, but I had him sign a note saying he agreed to this. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.

As I see it the larger wheel size is really to keep up with current fashion. Big wheels with rubber band thin tires are in and that is what sells. And they ride like crap. While the smaller and stiffer tire side walls help reduce roll in a sports car they are far from forgiving in ride quality. They just cannot absorb bumps and pot holes as well as tires with more sidewall. If the overall diameter of the tire is the same (which they are on our vehicles) a 20" tire has more sidewall then a 22" and an 18" has more sidewall then a 20" wheel. The added sidewall material increases the "suspension" a tire can provide at the cost of high speed turning performance. I would not call our vehicles high speed performance vehicles so why use that tire and wheel combo? I ordered my Suburban from the factory so I could get just the bells and whistles I wanted, and I ordered 18" wheels because the ride is superior to 20" or 22"'s. When I am making my 600 mile commute from CA to OR, I could careless what my tire/wheel combo looks like, I enjoy a comfortable ride.

The tire/wheel combo is exactly why I ordered mine with the 18" wheels and not the 20 or ridiculous 22" wheels. For those of you having so many problems ask the dealer to swap on a set of 18" wheels and see how it rides.

2016 Suburban LT Cross Bars, 2nd row buckets, 18" wheels 3700 miles (CA city and highways, Oregon gravel roads and snow) I supposed I am one of the few on the list with no vibrations or buffeting but I do get the 4v noise. I have hauled 4 6-8' Christmas trees on the roof 600 miles and the net result was about 3 mpg less than without the trees. Just for the hell of it, you guys might ask the dealers to let you try out a set of 18" wheels. I went with these because our ranch in Oregon has a lot of gravel and dirt roads and I know that the low profile 20 & 22's would be beat up in this environment. The 18" wheels have a higher profile tire that absorbs a bit more road imperfections and might have an impact on NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) although the Goodyear Assurance Fuel max tires are not my favorite. Jim

I have a 2016 that I believe drives fine, no buffeting. It does have a slight vibration when in V4 at times (kind of feels like a manual transmission bucking a bit when the rpms are too low) but other than that it is very nice to drive. I travel between San Francisco and Eugene OR if anyone wants a test ride. Maybe I don't hear the buffeting or maybe it is one of the vehicles that is OK? Test rides would have to be around either Eugene or SF as I don't stop along the way. Jim

No Sun roof because eventually they all leak.

BuyAmerican, I am one of the people who back in August of 2015 ordered a 2016 Suburban and then found this group. While waiting for the car to arrive I talked with the salesperson at my dealership and they agreed to let me take the car on an extensive test drive when it arrived. After reading these posts and copying the various technical bulletins about the problem told the dealer that if the car had any of the buffeting or vibration issues I would not purchase the car and if those issues turned up later I wanted a record showing that I was concerned about it at purchase time. I also spoke with the service manager about the issue and he said he had seen the problem and produced the same service bulletin that I had. He explained what we all have read on this forum, that there is a problem and there are various ways to address the problem. He said while there are problem vehicles the vast majority do not have the buffeting and vibration issues. I was very skeptical. The 2016 Chevy Suburban LT with roof rack, middle bucket seats and 18" wheels that I received has been a joy to drive. So, there are a few good cars out there. My suggestion would be to be upfront with the dealer and let them know you are well aware of these issues and take an extended test drive with or without the sales person and another person with "young ears" that would recognize the buffeting and vibration issues. My wife is very sensitive to such things and after our hour long test drive around the San Francisco Bay Area highways, city streets and back roads she felt the suburban road and sounded fine. Bottom line, be up front with the dealer, do your homework and take an extensive test drive on THE car you plan to purchase. (PS, I monitor this list and the Facebook page just in case my Suburban starts developing these issues, to date I have driven a little over 3000 miles to and from Oregon, through San Francisco, in the snow and dirt roads. The vehicle is more firm than my 2002 Suburban but I like that feeling of steadiness . . . and the safety features are far superior.)

So far, my 2016 does not have the issue. I will be taking it on a 600 miles drive in 10 days and report back to you guys. So far, it is a really nice ride as it should be for the price.

Here is a link to the July updated PIT for our issue: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=27174170&postcount=34

Chris, I went to the dealer and asked to talk to the service manager. I had a print out of #PIT5318 and he printed out the July update and gave it to me. See my post about 1 page back. They should be well aware of it. Franks repair was the updated PIT where they re-attach all of the roof bows in addtion Frank asked them to cover the roof with a sound deadening material called Dynamat. I am now up to 250 miles on my October built 2016 Suburban and neither the wife not I hear any buffeting or feel vibrations.

Yes, adjustable pedals. I had the 2nd row buckets in my 2002 and it actually made it easier for the kids to crawl in the back and adults seemed to like it better than a bench seat.

(I have read this thread from the beginning . . . right after I ordered a 2016 Suburban with exactly what I wanted. I waited 2 months and researched this and other issues as much as I could.) Just picked up the 2016 Suburban we ordered in September. Before accepting the car I discussed the issues in this thread with the sales person and asked to meet the service manager and discussed the issue with him. While the sales guy was not familiar with the problem, the service manager knew about it and had worked on several vehicles. I had a copy of the #PIT5318 bulletin from 2014 and showed it too the service manager. He said there was an update in July of 2015 and printed out a copy for me, it is now #PIT5318B. The service manager said GM is very aware of the issue and is trying to fix the problem as cars are produced and GM supports the dealers to help customers. I know . . . this may only be lip service but at least he did not deny it and was willing to acknowledge there was a problem. After the talk I drove with the sales person for about 30 minutes. I told him I would not accept the car without a extensive test drive. Believe me when I say we tried a huge variety of roads. We went on rough roads, smooth roads, close to other cars at 70mph and away from cars at 70mph, slow speeds and over rumble strips and speed bumps. At several points I held my hand to the roof to feel how much it vibrated. The result was that at the 40-50 speed I could feel some pressure in my ears but not too much to be uncomfortable. I did feel some what I call "road feel" vibration coming into the steering wheel and body but not like a part was out of alignment somewhere. It is not as smooth or quiet as my in-laws 2015 S Class Mercedes but this is basically a dolled up Chevy truck. I will say, I don't care fro the V4 to V8 switch or the lag in response from the gas pedal. So, the 2016 Suburban is now in my possession. Hopefully, the car will be as dependable as my 2002. I will keep the group updated if things change. I tried to scan the #PIT5318B dated 7/30/2015 but the scan was too large. The wording can be found on a previous post on this thread, here http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/162779-2015-yukon-noise-in-cabin/page-74 For the record my 2016 Suburban was assembled in early October 2016 LS Model Luxury Package Second Row bucket Seats MyLink Roof Rack Cross Rails Transfer Case 2 speed 18" Wheels

For those of you who are testing things, is it possible the roof is flexing like a large speaker cone making the low frequency booming? If someone could try sitting in say the 2nd row and pushing up on the roof to steady it, maybe you could feel if it was flexing at speed. The GM TSB that recommended adhering the bows to the roof may have been point to a roof flexing situation. If that were part of the booming it could be easily stiffened with something like Dynamat. Meanwhile, my 2016 is built and waiting for transport from Texas to California. Jim

This is exactly what I have been thinking . . . Dynamat or Boommat. Both of these products adhere to the inside panels of the vehicle reducing noise, vibration and heat. I have used this material on several vehicles I have restored. One vehicle, a 1956 Willys Station wagon, sounded like you were inside a beer keg bouncing down a gravel driveway. Once I covered the wall panels, ceiling and floor with Dynamat the experience was much quieter. After I lined the doors, they had that "Thunk" sound when you closed them. In order to save money, weight and raise fuel mileage, auto manufactures are using lighter and thinner materials to skin cars. If you try to push the door panel on any '50's - 60's model car you will find it very stiff whereas a currently models door skin will flux back and forth. I will bet that a lot of the buffeting, booming and pressure comes from those panels vibrating and moving in the wind and from road vibrations while driving. Something like Dynamat or Boommat would resolve some of that. The other thing I wonder about is this ANC system or Active Noise Cancellation. Here are my thoughts; A lot of new cars like Porsche, VW, Audi, Toyota, BMW, Honda and probably US manufactures have worked very hard to create a specific "Sound Sensation" for their cars. Europe has very tough regulations on muffler noise from their vehicles so the manufactures have developed sound generating devices that they place in the car to create a certain engine noise for sporty cars and white noise for luxury cars. My sons 2012 VW GTI had a small box between the firewall and dashboard that created fake engine noise . . .it sounded pretty lame. I wonder, if these sound generation systems, out of "tune" can actually cause or add to the buffeting sound described here. Simply disabling the system or covering the microphones may in fact make this condition worse. There is one post about a person who covered the microphones and said the car sounded very strange like it was revving up. I currently own a 2002 Suburban which has been like a trusted member of the family, my wife has convinced me to put a deposit on a 2016 ordered from the factory with the items we want. Hopefully, 1. I am old enough not to hear the buffeting, 2. It might be fixed, 3. We ordered 18" wheels because we drive quite a bit offroad, 4. if it does have the problems . . . . I can figure out how to pull off the panels and try the Dynamat solution. Anyway, just my thoughts. I will let you know my driving experience with the 2016 sometime in November. Jim

Looks like Consumer Reports had an article on this: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/07/cadillac-escalade-amends-its-bad-ride-manners/index.htm

Looks like that post was from November 5, 2014 so it was a 2015 model.

The wife and I did go for a (albiet) short test drive today in a 2016 4WD LT. I turned down but not off the radio and A/C and I have to say this is a very nice car, especially compared to our tired 2002 LT with Autoride. The car had about 30 miles on it and it drove nicely and was very quiet . . . no booming or pressure. However, if as the previous posts point out, if this is a rear end or carrier bearing issue the noise may not surface for several hundred or thousand miles. I did not ask any questions about the problems discussed in this thread as the salesman looked to be about 12 years old and didn't even know the motor switched from 8 to 4 cylinders. Unbelievable who they have selling 60+k vehicles. I will give it a bit more thought and since we want a special setup we will most likely order a car as opposed to taking one off a lot. We live near San Francisco and have a ranch in Oregon, so the first round trip will put over 1200 miles on the car and give me 10 hours of driving each way to assess the car. Expect a report back in about 2 months. Thanks for all of the help! Jim ps: the noise many of you mentioned sounded very much like the pinion bearing on my '56 Willys Wagon as it began to fail except that was quiet on acceleration and booming on deceleration.