GreasyHands

Yes, I seen he has a keen interest in many truck areas. I will keep him in mind since he is not too far from me. Your little video really pulled all together. A faulty fob will trigger some test equipment, but at the end of the day its a dud. Hence, the test light at the retailer reading ok when it was not :-) Now to resurrect my other thread on the cluster once I remove it. Many, many moons ago I use to do some of that work on radios, but I need to refresh the technique. Thanks again

Coby7 & SPartanAUtoworx: We are back in business. New fobs programmed smooth and are functioning. The retailer via Amazon sent his business card and recommended I go to their www site for programming instructions. I had Coby's instructions but thought I better check their site. Only difference is they mentioned I might have to hold the Unlock and Lock buttons for as long as 30 minutes. Not even close, less 30 seconds. Both are programmed. Now off to mend the instrument cluster once material arrives. Thanks for all the posts and advice, I have learned allot from both of you and your assistance has been a HUGE help. SpartanAUtoworx, Appears you may have some used parts and I see you are showing ST Louis area. That being the case you are a stone throw away from me and I will retain your posts if that is correct. v/r Butch

New fobs should be here Monday at the latest, amazon says Sunday via USPS......doubt that. So the pic is the PDM or RCDLR or whatever it is called in the passenger door? And, needs to be programmed not plug and play if I understand correct? I sure am hoping new fobs cure the issue, lowest cost fix so far plus mine nearly 15 years old anyway and one has nor worked for years. thanks for posting

Will this post is an education in itself, thank you for posting. I will have to research some of the terms you quoted but thats ok. My one fob has been inop for many years. Elderly family member tried to replace battery and the case is in pretty poor shape, so $25.00 and two replacements has that fixed. I will look into switch today or tomorrow, thanks again

We will know in a few days, Ordered! Will report back. thanks again

Sorry Coby7, I wrote an incomplete response. I indeed held the unlock and lock buttons on the fob for at least 30 seconds, followed each step per your instructions.. No soap. I can try again tomorrow to ensure no miscues, but I followed your instructions to the T on the sync as well. If the relay you stated is working then maybe the fob just gave up the ghost..its nearly 15 years old. Like I say, one has not worked for years, the other stopped just a couple of days ago. your thoughts, and thanks

9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically. I did replace batteries at the same time, but one fob previously replaced long ago and was inop then to now. Several years past. Locks cycled per # 9, but so soap on fobs. Also, followed instructions in red too the letter, so soap Time to write amazon an order?????? What ya think? thanks a ton

Looks like I have another problem alright, or maybe two. The one fob has not operated for a long time. This other fob just stopped a few days ago Boy the little challenges I have experienced with this truck. It runs well, but just a laundry list of little things. Intermediate steering shaft, instrument cluster, tow haul switch, over cab lights never connected, parasitic drain, rotors, rusted brake lines and fuel lines......when I got the truck it had 28k miles and was under coated with periodic touch ups. My brother in law has a 03 nearly the same and he did have intermediate steering shaft, but nothing else......

Well that video was straight forward and sums it up. I guess it could be the same situation at Orielly's when I tested them there. They just had a little receiver at the counter with a couple of lights on it. Interesting

I guess my truck is feeling its age, 03 SIlverado 4x4, 42,000 miles. FOB stopped opening doors, just out of the blue so I replaced batteries with some I knew were good, no soap. took fob to orielly's and according to their counter machine they are transmitting fine. So I did the following per a download on the WWW for an 03 SIlverado: Several times. If Your Silverado Doesn't Have a Vehicle Information Center (pre-2007) Step 1: Sit in the vehicle with all the doors closed and unlocked. Insert the key into the ignition. Do not turn the key until directed. Step 2: Press and hold the Unlock button on the driver's side door. You will hear the locks make two clunking noises, indicating they have completed an unlock/lock cycle. Continue to hold down the Unlock button. Step 3: While holding down the Unlock button, turn the key to the accessory power position then back to the off position. Repeat turning the key from the accessory power position to the off position for a total of two cycles. Step 4: Release the Unlock button. Your Silverado will automatically cycle the locks as it did in Step 2. Step 5: Simultaneously hold down the Lock and Unlock buttons on your fob for 15 seconds. Step 6: Program any additional remotes for repeating Step 6 for each remote. Up to four remotes can be programmed. Step 7: Exit programming mode by starting your Silverado. Turn off the vehicle and test your remotes. AGAIN No Soap Does anyone know if the sync instructions are valid for 03 Silverdo? If not, where can I find the correct? OR is this a dealer or lock smith issue? thanks folks

beasticlesYes, brucelimerick post is a good source, no doubt. I am just a little cautious until I see what GM actually did under the truck. Right now it is a rusty mess, and it has been undercoated three times. My mother is a retired GM employee who worked with harnesses and she was not surprised when I told her about the parasitic drain with the e-brake bracket. She had the same issue when she had the truck but evidently the more miles I put on it the worse the issue became. What really bothers me is GM will not step to the table. I do not believe there is little doubt inferior metal is the bulk of these issues. I have been a small block chevy and GM fan for many long years, but lately have drifted some. Dunno what to say, enough venting. anyway waiting to hear how you do and wishing you well and safety. I wont be on mine for a few more weeks. Oh, I have a craftsman line set, but am purchasing another set similar to yours. waiting to hear an update Greasy

I for one will be anxious to see how your project goes. I have an 03 with rusted lines that bust and still in the process of gathering info. The truck is several miles from here so I need to take allot of stuff with me for the repair. Just this am talked to the local GM dealer. He gave some additional info but I have no idea if it applies to your vehicle and I am not sure about mine until I tear into it. He told me NAPA 100X4 and 105X3 are all the fittings I need and they are the part numbers they use....I hope so they are allot cheaper than GM. I did check NAPA on line store, they look ok. He further said all the lines for the ABS, MC, proportioning valve and front brakes are 1/4 and inverted flare. Only 3/16 is across the axle at the rear. We will see. I am taking bubble and inverted flare sets with me and some fittings . After I tear into it if the flare is different off to NAPA for ISO. I could go on and on about this GM truck. E-Brake bracket rubbing against the wiring harness causing an intermittent fault and parasitic drain, Roof lamps not connected, intermediate steering shaft knocking from day one, calipers and rotors shot.....10 year old truck with 30K miles. On the good side, the engine seems strong and it does have a nice ride. There is several posts about the brakes and I am not trying to contradict their findings, just sharing what I found so far Waiting to see your posts Butch