John Dell

May I ask how you got your GMC letters blacked out, I have been looking to do the same.

So these 16-17 SLT 1500 headlights will fit in a 17 SLT 2500?

Can you post what trucks came with what version. It sounds like some may look the same but be HID and not LED. Some people may be checking junk yards. I am still a bit confused. I have a 2017 SLT and have the same lights as shown in the black 3500 in the before pic. Would this truck not come with LED's. Or is it changing to the better looking headlights. I want to switch to the black truck after pics.

And, I hate to say it but I would expect the very thin sheet metal to rust thru a week after you get that stone chip.

I mentioned this a while back but too big a problem to tackle for most people. Since you can do it, and you have the headliner down, buy a gallon of bed liner, and paint the entire roof. It will be stiff as a rock. That was my plan, to do the roof, pull door panels and get what I could reach and pull back inner liners and do the inside of the quarter panels. Most people think the very thin sheet metal on the entire truck is vibrating like being inside a drum. Stiffening all the panels may help. I decided not to go thru all this and ordered a pick up truck but still follow this thread in case it gets resolved before the pick up arrives.

Does anyone know if Arlington, the only plant that produces these had a model year shut down to make new 2017 year changes or did they just keep building and change the year of manufacturer?

Are you saying the pick up trucks have these problems? I was going to give up on the Yukon xl and go with a 2500 HD. Do they also have a lot of the same problems? thanks.

This is just that, a hunch, thinnest metal ever on the stiffest frame ever and a booming sound. My opinion is that there are many factors. Some people are more sensitive to little sounds/feelings. Some trucks/most trucks may not show any problems if everything is perfect as it sounds like anything not perfect causes the body to vibrate. Perhaps you are getting your truck closer to everything else being perfect. Yes this is a big under taking and could only be done when the truck was in for roof bow service, then the rest done at home. I am curious, what about your truck, how is it getting better?

I have read every page and my heart goes out to all who have suffered thru this mess. I don't believe anyone tried this, they tried Dynamat, but that is very flexible. The drum or subwoofer feeling will be heard/felt with windows up or down. Just my two cents worth, I don't have one so I can not say what it is like, I want one but not all like this.

I have been thinking a lot about this lately, mostly because I want one but will not buy one with these known problems. Here is my idea to anyone that is inclined to try. The GM tech said it is like being inside a drum, his words. The problem is most likely part of all of them but some people as more sensitive or have perfectly built suv's with no tire or other small issue's to enhance the vibration/pressure. All automobiles have small vents built in so on a hot day it can vent and not blow out a window. That is where the problem occurs. Air moving in and out maybe not fast enough and because of the body panels being so thin it can't keep up. Its no coincidence that this problem came along with the thinnest sheet metal ever. So it must be thicker to avoid vibration from any other influence. If anyone has one and some spare time, I would buy some roll on bed liner, maybe even thin it a bit, and remove the 4 door interior panels, and coat the inside of them, then remove the rear tires and plastic inner fender wells and do as much as the quarter panels as possible, you may need to remove the plastic on the inside of the the suv to get the upper parts, same for rear tail gate but the hard part and most important is have your dealer remove the headliner cover seats well, and do the roof, especially the front half as it does not have ribs it is just flat. The front fenders and hood are not part of the cabin so likely not needed. This will cover all the large flat areas that can easily vibrate. On a side note, has anyone had their suv aftermarket undercoated and still had vibration/pressure issues? This would add mass to the body panels but not the roof, especially the front half where I think most of the problem comes from.

Well the $3500 rebate was not enough to take the chance. Had one all picked out, seemed to drive nice but as some have said, the problem often appears after a couple thousand miles. Some say its the 4v, some say only 22" tires some say roof bows and some say the ANC. I don't know. And since GM will not say if they made any progress or not I guess it will be something else. Sad but true. Very disappointed in GM as it is a really nice looking SUV but I just can't risk it. Sometimes I wonder if the problems are built into all of them, and some people are just more sensitive to them.

How do you know if any roof bows have become detached? Can you tell be looking at the roof or feel it in any way. Or is it only that when people take it in for booming/buffeting that they find they have become detached. I guess my question is, are there thousands of Yukons [and others] driving around right now with all bows detached but it just happens to not be as noticeable to the owner. Even if my Yukon XL drove quiet as can be, I would always wonder if any or all bows are still glued down. Still waiting for a response from GM as I asked a few days ago, before I even consider buying one. And their is only one left the way I want it so hurry up with that answer.

That is likely it. I was going about 30-32mph and with slight gas pressure it vibrated for a second or two then instantly stopped as I speed up. Drove it again today, since it was bothering me, and could not recreate it. Ran it up to 80mph and still smooth. I must decide if the $3500 rebate is worth the risk.

If I had to describe this feeling it would be like driving a manual transmission and shifting to 4th when you were going for 2nd. I think the engine active fuel management and the transmission don't work together seamlessly. After more research, I found where it said the switch from 4 to 8 takes only 1/20th of a second. So how do you know if it is in 4 or 8 or does it really not matter. Can you feel it change back and forth? Can this feature be deactivated without a check engine light on?

I drove one today. Seemed ok but I did expect it to ride a bit better, not a issue just stiff. I did experience one vibration. At about 30 mph I gave it a little gas and for a couple seconds I did feel a vibration, then gone. My guess is it was in 4cyl. mode and a little gas and it couldn't handle it and jumped back to 8cyl. Does this sound right? Does 4cyl. mode begin at any certain speed or just whenever it fells it can. Does anyone else notice anything like this. I tried to do it again but could not.